rsicard Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 The leak-down tester will help tell what is leaking. The piston rings, intake, exhaust valve or head gasket. The cylinder head and block surfaces can be checked for straightness with a machinist straight edge. Once the valve job is done, a leak-down test can be performed to measure ring leakage. Clean block surfaces before reinstalling cylinder heads after reconditioning. Strongly suggest purchasing ARP cylinder head STUDS. Put Loctite sealer on stud threads and thread into block. Put ARP assembly lube on upper portion of cylinder head stud, washer and nut. Three stage progressive torque to spec in a circular pattern starting from the center and going outward. Then assemble the remainder. Run engine. Let it cool and perform cylinder leak-down test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Curious, what are lE3 heads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Curious, what are lE3 heads? Thanks for the helpful information. I am hoping that once I take the heads off, I could tell the condition of the rings buy checking the cylinder walls. If they're clean, I would assume they're fine, if any deep scratches or so, well.. reboring, might as well rebuild. The LE3 heads are ported heads by Lloyd Elliott, he makes LE1, LE2, and LE3 for the LT1 and LS1. He work on your heads when you shipped them to him, he also would do your intake. He seems to really know his stuff about porting and cam selection, alot of LT1 guys on the forums really like this guy. His work isn't cheap, that why I was a little bumed out my engine didn't last long, I was hoping it last so I don't go for a budget build. Anyways, Check out Lloyd Elliott, he's the man when you want some serious power out of your factory LT-1 head. Also talk to him about your setup, he would tell you what cam you should run. http://elliottsportworks.com/ Quick question, I might throw in a bigger cam once I start tearing the block down to a short block. I already bought new 24lb Venom Injectors, if I go with a bigger cam, will I need bigger injectors? If that would be the case I have to skip the cam, these injectors weren't cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Thanks for the answer on LE3 heads. Did not know about Lloyd Elliot. Compare what he wants for his head mods with new AFR heads for a LT-1/4. I really think that a LT-1 with AFR heads and 383 displacement is superior to anything else in this displacement bar none. The key to power is the cam/head/induction combination. With the 24lb injectors, an increase in fuel pressure should compensate just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 I wanted to try to build the LT-1 the best as I can when money allows, making it into a monster with twin turbo. I am set with 335/35-17 rear tires for the new rearend, and I might be getting a pair of 17x14 rims from Diamond Racing. I hear many good things about them, and they seem cheap too. They are steel rims, but should keep the weight down the back a bit, and the lt1 should handle the rotational mass just fine. I will be taking apart the LT-1 once I get my tax return, I hope the cylinder walls looks clean. I am going for Mr.Gasket head gasket (part #5716G) which as a .026 compressed thickness, the stock ones has about .050, it will increase compression along with the head mill down. I always hear it's always good to run higher compression, but how about on a ol' stock lt1 like mine. Think it's a good idea? They even say running a thinner head gasket reduce the chance of having a blow out. I was reading some where on the forums that they say if you run a thick head gasket, it's like sticking your hand out at 70mph vertically where all that force blowing your hand away. Now, if you stick your hand out horizontally there less resistant of your hand blowing away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 2, 2012 Author Share Posted April 2, 2012 Well, called Diamond Racing wheels, they don't do any 17" rims anymore and haven't updated their site. What a bummer. I am in the market for some old steel 17" GM bolt pattern rims and have it widen by weldcraft. Anyone got a old pair, hit me up! Not having much luck with ebay and craigslist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 http://www.rockcrawler-mrt.com/offroad%20wheels%2017%20inch.html If you are planning on a TT setup then you'll want lower compression for boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 http://www.rockcrawler-mrt.com/offroad%20wheels%2017%20inch.html If you are planning on a TT setup then you'll want lower compression for boost. You are a hero Goth. Thanks a bunch! These are what I am exactly looking for, for some reason I thought diamond racing make these wheels. They aren't bad on the price considering I can have any bolt pattern and back spacing. This is the Z I saw online, been looking everywhere for these exact wheels (whoever own this Z, its beautiful!) Normally, I don't even like anything over 16" for rims for our cars, but these looks great, and not much bling. Plus, they don't have much option on wider tires for 16, have to bump it up to 17 for the tires I need. One thing concern me, since these are offroad wheels, they may not be balanced or have the true center bolt holes. I might have vibration on low speeds, should I worry about something like this? This Z is going to be my daily driver. I am aware that the TT will need lower compression or it would just blow. The TT setup will be in for a long long time from now. Just going to leave the motor stockish, for now. I haven't really got the chance to get the feel out of the car completely yet. It's already beaten few Dodge Neon SRTs, and other little cars just quarter throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I would call them up regarding the vibration issues. They are just like DR but i find them cheaper and more options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 I am about to call them. I am going to sell my wheel set to fund these wheels. My wheel set on my Datsun isn't cheap. When it come to tires for me, I must have top notch tires. I have too many cheap tires problem in the past with my 1968 Ford Thunderbird, can't have these problem on the Z. I am selling my wheels for $1200 on the listing, they are the widest wheels you could fit on a stock suspension 240Z. This made me think now.. If those rims are perfect, they would be great for the back. Now, I would want to get 17x12 for the front after the front suspension upgrade, the problem is I already bought my stage 4 Big Brake kit for the front with the factory Datsun bolt pattern. I could have them make the 17x12 with the Datsun bolt pattern, but I would worry if the wheels will hold on. Will this be a problem to be missing just one more bolt on the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 They should be able to get you a 4 bolt pattern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 They should be able to get you a 4 bolt pattern. I wanted to run 12 wide rims on the front, I am just worrying about the strength of a 4 bolt over than a 5 bolt for the front. I am hoping it would handle the load on 4 bolts okay. Since the original Datsun tires can be fine for 6 inch wide stockers, but how about a 13 inch wide meats for the front? I was able to find some unused 335/35-17 Kumho tires for $200, possibility of getting them for $150. Let see how those look, Might be getting these. I decided to run all four 17x12 on my Z with all the same tire size or close to it so I could rotate tires. I would run 315/35-17 to 335/35-17 depending on deals for tires. One thing worries me about the MRT wheels is that they are not DOT approved. I called them up for vibrations, and true center. They are true as they get, and they are "built with best available materials." How many of you guys are running non Dot approved rims, how would they hold up? Is the Dot approved rims have more material thickness? I really want to go for their rims since they can do any backspacing, which I dont have to narrow the Jag rearend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 (edited) Well just got these Kumhos tires for $200 for the pair, I feel like this is a good deal. They are brand new, still have the fresh tire smell and looks really good. Now, I gotta fix my engine, wait for the rear end, then rims and mount these babies. Edited April 8, 2012 by King's Evil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 Hey all, it's been a while. I got back working on the Z after months of saving up. Few months ago the old R180 started making bunch of whining noise after 45mph in the back, and after a last hard launch the spider gears got completely stripped, possibly had snapped the pinion gear, and my stub axle got somewhat stripped. The stub axle rotor is all loose and wiggly. She got towed home and sat for a while. It was fun while the rearend lasted. The Jaguar rearend finally came after 6 month of waiting. It appears to be missing more parts, and the ebay seller has put down alot of false information just to have me to buy the rearend. The Jag is a 3.06 gearing lsd, and would need alot of work than I imagined, and don't know if it would be worth cutting up the car, removing stock Datsun mounts and spending big bucks if the handling or acceleration didn't improve. So I decided to ditch the Jaguar rear end swap, sell the Jag rear end. I wanted to try something different, and if it worked, it give the Z cars another direction for a rearend swap. So I got me a open R200 instead, it came out of a 1977 280Z with 92k miles, and it has a 3.92, or a 3.73 gear ratio. It included with half shafts, mustache bar and a box of spare rear end parts. the guy who I bought it from is going to put a 700hp Ford Winsor motor in his little z, and swapping a lsd q45 rearend in it. He thinks it would destroy the R200, but I think it would be fine with the Lt-1 since its going to be stock for awhile. The R200 swap went straight forward, flipped the solid mount, bolts right up with the drive shaft. I got new struts from a rebuilt Z since my springs, shocks, and stub axles were torn and worn out. It didn't come with brakes, I been thinking of doing a disc brakes but that cost a bit. If anyone is selling a used set of rear disc brake set, let me know I pay good for them. I might have to take out the stub axle and put my old drum brakes on. I have some question since I still want to use my 335/35-17 tires for the back. If I would to go for a 17x11 steel rims with 4 lugs, would that be an improvement having heavy wheels so it would have more weigh to keep the tires contract the ground? I heard it it would increase sprung weight and would make the car ride rough. Smooth ride is nice, but I am more function than looks or ride quality if my car can stop and go good, I want to go for that. Since one 17x11 rim weighs 45 pound and the tires (assuming) weighs about 20 pounds. Would the increased rotating mass would be any different on a 400hp V8 2000 pound car? Another question is for the stub axles. How much tolerance can they handle? Will 4 Lug would hold the heavy rims, or should I drill the stub axle into a 5 lug to hold in the wheels. I am adding more weight on the stub axle, and bearings. Is this something I should be concerned? Does anyone has a pair of 17x11 rims, or know who sells them for a good price. I been looking and looking, it seems my only option is from GOTHALOSISM for the MRT Rockcrawler steel rims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 A little update; got the new struts in, put old drum brakes back on, R200 rearend all assembled, drained out the diarrhea looking gear oil, put some heavy 120 something weigh oil in it. She went fast, I lost some top speed with the new R200, gained alot of wheel spins. The new shocks and springs on the struts solved my wheel hop problem I had before, so it just spins and spins. I am shocked the new setup just kept spinning the slicks, the 10.5 inches wide slicks isn't enough perhaps. When I took her on the freeway, it spins the tires from 1 to 4 gears, pretty amazing feeling after driving a 4 cylinder automatic Ranger quite awhile now. I know the car is light, and they are known for wheel spins. But this car does wheel spins quarter throttle now, and my motor would just rev up until it catches the ground, I wanna try to eliminate the wheel spin much as possible. I think the wheel spin is either the spring is too stiff or the wheel is too light, I was thinking chopping the spring so the ride would be softer and lower so the wheel could have more contract on the ground. If that won't do, I might go for the 17x11 steel rims and mount it up to my 13.5 wide tires, more weight on the ground, and the increased rotating mass can be an improvement for a really light car, it use more horse power to spin the wheel instead of traction, and once its rolling, the increased weight keep spinning but contract better on the ground. I have to change the rear tires anyways since I had some officers telling my rear tires are too bald when the fender flares are off (Lol). Any opinion/ideas are welcomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 No clue on the rims, but don't you love how it puts you in your seat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 No clue on the rims, but don't you love how it puts you in your seat? She makes sure that I am in the seat really well, she should be a bit faster than she is now. I been loosing traction after quarter throttle, I see my tac going to the moon at the quarter throttle, tire roasting smell and blasting off the line. Everyone can see a cloud of smoke that where she was. I really need to do something about that, I wanna at least roast them 3/4 of the throttle and have all the traction I need. That where my wide tire idea comes in. I have a buddy with a 510, he chop the springs in the back to soften up the springs and lower it, when the spring is softer the tire can mate to the ground better, but a draw back could be bouncy/rough ride. Could this help any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzzzz Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 She makes sure that I am in the seat really well, she should be a bit faster than she is now. I been loosing traction after quarter throttle, I see my tac going to the moon at the quarter throttle, tire roasting smell and blasting off the line. Everyone can see a cloud of smoke that where she was. I really need to do something about that, I wanna at least roast them 3/4 of the throttle and have all the traction I need. That where my wide tire idea comes in. I have a buddy with a 510, he chop the springs in the back to soften up the springs and lower it, when the spring is softer the tire can mate to the ground better, but a draw back could be bouncy/rough ride. Could this help any? Cutting coils off the spring makes it stiffer not softer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King's Evil Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Care to explain? Removing a coil stiffen the suspension, is it because less suspension travel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 (edited) I don't think there is ever a valid argument for heavier wheels/tires. Lighter is always better - drag wheels and slicks are super light, much lighter than autocross or roadracing tires. Did I read in your thread that your R200 was "open?" I imagine that is your problem with wheelspin. I run my LS2 with a Z31 CLSD with 8.5" slicks. No wheelspin at all. That's 8.5 X 2=17" of tire on the road. Even at 11" wheels and tires, the most traction you will consistently have is 11". From the LSD, I've got 6" more tire width than you even though my tires are more narrow. Get an LSD and you may find that the tires you have are more than adequate. Just thinking out loud; hope that helps. PS-your car looks awesome, especially the exhaust. Gonna copy that. Edited July 28, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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