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What can I do to prevent an insurance from totaling out my custom 260z?


rayaapp2

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So my car, a 1974 260z with a rb25 swap, was hit while stopped by an underage cyclist. My hood was open as I was manuvering into a position to jump start another vehicle. The cyclist hit me while riding down the wrong side of the road and not wearing a helmet(ca helmet law). The insurance has determined he was at fault and this falls under uninsured motorist. Ive taken the car into a local collision center to have the damage assessed. My uninsured motorist coverage is good for $3500. The damage is pretty bad since the cyclist was traveling down hill, weighed in around 230lbs and was traveling around 15mph. He sideswipped/t-boned my right fender and then flew into the hood peeling it off my front end. All and all Id say a good $2500 in damage with parts, labor and body related materials for paint and what not.(Hood, grill, rubber bumper backing, right fender, hood emblem, marker light, hood hinges, and right front center cap all need replacement/repair). The collision center is already asking to have my car appraised to determine its value. I have reciepts totaling over $15K. I have a log book totaling over $18K. This does not include my time as a certified technician at 80+ hours doing all the work. I would think that my car at worst falls into the low retail category below if it had a stock engine. Being that the car is now a classic with a rat rod style engine swap and a lot of hard hours I could probably have put the car on the market for between $15K-$20K.

 

This is NadaGuides breakdown

Pricing

Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail

$5,364 $4,375 $8,050 $14,900

TOTAL PRICE $5,364 $4,375 $8,050 $14,900*

 

Value Explanations

 

Prices shown are retail consumer values and to be considered as selling prices. Trade-in values are to be determined by local dealers and are generally lower than values shown.

 

Low Retail Value

This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

 

Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.

 

Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".

Average Retail Value

This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".

 

High Retail Value

This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.

 

* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.

 

 

My intension is to use the money towards a paint job for the entire car. I have most of the parts needed to repair the car(of course they are all different colors so paint is needed). Since 2002 this sort of incident has occurred to the car 8 times. None were of this caliber. Its been little dents here and there. None of those incidents would have been found to be my fault and none of those were ever handed to insurance. Peeling my hood off was the last straw sort to speak. Im not trying to milk the situation here at all. I have a friend with a body shop that will cut me a deal if I bring him the parts. I had spoke with him only a month before this happened about painting the car already. So dont get me wrong here.

 

My insurance is pretty cool about claims or at least they have been in the past. My wife nor I have been at fault for any accidents and the few things that have happened havent even occurred while we were driving. In the past they have taken very good care of us. Im hoping that continues.

 

Anyway what I need to get down to here is what can I do to present the value of the vehicle to the insurance and or the appraiser to prevent them from trying to salvage my car. Will my log book and receipts cover me? In the end if they are unwilling to cut me a check for what ever the damages total comes to without totaling out my car can I just demand that they replace my completely custom car with an identical one? How does that work?

 

Im fairly certain that it will not come to that, but I want to have my stuff in order if it does so I can fight that fight. The reason I have hesitation is that the collision estimator has requested that my vehicle be appraised as I mentioned above, and that tells me that she believes its not worth the money to repair or at least that she thinks that it could be up in the air and if I was not a car person and I saw my car I might think that as well. I have no reservations that she has no idea what an RB is or what the stock motor would have looked like. In fact I have done my absolute best to hide any fact that my car is modified to prevent any un needed tickets and to keep the car a sleeper of sorts so I can continue o enjoy the car on public roads. You would never know that the car has had the frame re-enforced, the suspension completely redone and modified for track, the EFI fuel system installed, the RB swap, or anything like that by just looking at the car rolling down the road or even parked.

 

So Im open to any tips that may help me prepare for this. Currently Im waiting on the insurance company to contact the claims adjuster that will contact the collision place where the damages were assessed so they can get back to me about what I need to do next.

 

Thank You

 

Ray

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Let 'em total it and ask what the buy back value is for scrap. They probably will let you have it for a few hundred dollars.

My kid totaled a car. The insurance paid 4.5K. I bought it back for 500. that netted me 4K and the car. I fixed it myself for 1K and we all lived happily ever after.

The insurance will probably not give you collision coverage again unless you do a first class repair.

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Let 'em total it and ask what the buy back value is for scrap. They probably will let you have it for a few hundred dollars.

My kid totaled a car. The insurance paid 4.5K. I bought it back for 500. that netted me 4K and the car. I fixed it myself for 1K and we all lived happily ever after.

The insurance will probably not give you collision coverage again unless you do a first class repair.

I don't think he wants his prized possession to have a salvage title.
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Yeah, Im not looking to salvage title the car. That will make more issues down the road. The whole process of getting the car cleared for public roads again in California would in fact lead to the revocation of the cars registration after undergoing the certifications needed. The RB swap being the sticky point with smog laws here. Im sure the brake and lamp inspection/vin inspection would go over fine though... woot!

 

Unfortunately I bought the car with the intentions to part it out... and it grew on me. At this point I have a bit more invested than just money. I have to say it. It takes a special kind of person to intentionally get caught up in a 260z. It kinda just snuck up on me one day and I decided to keep going with it. The car is almost irreplaceable. I mean it could be replaced, but all the time and effort and dare I say dreaming Ive put into this stupid hunk of metal is just ridiculous and I wouldnt trade the car for much in this world.

Edited by rayaapp2
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Unfortunately I bought the car with the intentions to part it out... and it grew on me. At this point I have a bit more invested than just money. I have to say it. It takes a special kind of person to intentionally get caught up in a 260z. It kinda just snuck up on me one day and I decided to keep going with it. The car is almost irreplaceable. I mean it could be replaced, but all the time and effort and dare I say dreaming Ive put into this stupid hunk of metal is just ridiculous and I wouldnt trade the car for much in this world.

 

That's just how I feel about my 260Z! I found it browsing Craigslist and bought it to just drive around, but then proceeded to do way more work to it than originally planned. Lots of sweat and blood has gone into it and I don't know if I could ever get rid of it. However, my 260Z already has a salvaged title from superficial rear-end damage!

 

Unfortunately, I can't help much with the insurance issue, but if it does get totaled and you need an inspection, then you can always temporarily drop in an L-gata. I doubt there's any way to get an RB to pass, even with emissions intact.

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That's just how I feel about my 260Z! I found it browsing Craigslist and bought it to just drive around, but then proceeded to do way more work to it than originally planned. Lots of sweat and blood has gone into it and I don't know if I could ever get rid of it. However, my 260Z already has a salvaged title from superficial rear-end damage!

 

Unfortunately, I can't help much with the insurance issue, but if it does get totaled and you need an inspection, then you can always temporarily drop in an L-gata. I doubt there's any way to get an RB to pass, even with emissions intact.

 

You really think a Modern EFI engine is going to have worse emissions than a 38 year old dual carb engine? Unless you are referring to the fact that the engine was never sold in the United States, because that is the real issue, emissions or not it wouldn't matter. You can get swaps approved, but only engine that were native to the US, with the factory electronics and emissions systems and they must pass the standards given to the vehicle it came out of if higher than the vehicle going in, if the standards of the vehicle it is going into are higher then they must meet that. This is my limited understanding of the California Nazi laws.

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Dropping in an L gata would be as much work as the RB swap itself. I would have to do a lot of fab work just to go back to stock. It would be easier for me to cut the vin label out of the bulkhead and transfer all the riveted vins to another donor thats still stock.

 

And no the RB was not put through the Ca or Federal testing that is required to be smog legal. Ive smogged this car btw. Ive smogged this car with the RB and no cat. It definitely passes the early zcar standards. But thats possible because Im a licensed tech.

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You really think a Modern EFI engine is going to have worse emissions than a 38 year old dual carb engine? Unless you are referring to the fact that the engine was never sold in the United States, because that is the real issue, emissions or not it wouldn't matter. You can get swaps approved, but only engine that were native to the US, with the factory electronics and emissions systems and they must pass the standards given to the vehicle it came out of if higher than the vehicle going in, if the standards of the vehicle it is going into are higher then they must meet that. This is my limited understanding of the California Nazi laws.

 

Yes, this is what I was referring to. Emissions don't matter if the engine was never approved for sale within the US. I don't know where you pulled the EFI-to-carb comparison from...

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Take the time to read the appropriate part of your insurance policy that is appllicable to this loss. This is what will really matter most in your negotiation with the insurance company. Surprisingly many of the claims service reps dont completely understand what they owe under what part of the agreement. If in doubt ask them to " put it in wrting " . The verbal vs written answer can many times be different and to your advantage .

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Ok I haven't lived in CA for 8 yrs... But I thought that the CA smog laws made cars 75 and earlier smog exempt?

 

Search please. No car in California is exempt from compliance with smog laws. 1975 and earlier don't have to do the bi-annual or sale smog tests.

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Search please. No car in California is exempt from compliance with smog laws. 1975 and earlier don't have to do the bi-annual or sale smog tests.

This is true for cars that originally came with smog equipment. Cars before smog regulations are completely exempt (think early '60s and older).

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Isn't there something about cars that came from the factory with dual carbs being exempt in calif. I had a XK140 coupe years ago that was hit in a parking lot. I got the insurance company to fix it instead of total it by requesting that they replace it with another XK140 Coupe, after having a high school kid in a mustang rental car for a couple weeks they fixed it. Tell them to replace it with another Z with the same mods.

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Search please. No car in California is exempt from compliance with smog laws. 1975 and earlier don't have to do the bi-annual or sale smog tests.

 

 

This is true for cars that originally came with smog equipment. Cars before smog regulations are completely exempt (think early '60s and older).

 

 

To be smog exempt you have to be a model year 1963 or older. Smog laws were introduced into legislation at that time dictating what manufactures had to have on the car to bring the car into compliance. 1964-1975 are bi annual inspection exempt. So we just dont have to go in for inspection every other year. So if it were to go down the road where I allowed them to total it I would have to go through all the inspections light brake and light as well as smog as far I as I understand it and that is where I would be caught in a situation where I would be sent ot a ref and he could not by law sign off on my car until it had a smog legal swap or was put back to stock. Thats just a nightmare. I am preparing my documents this weekend and Im waiting to hear back from insurance. I fired off a professional letter stating my intentions this morning to my claims agent. If they do not fall in line I will request their answer in formal writing and see what happens. So far the insurance has been on my side. And so its been in the past. I have to say I love my insurance. Its been the appraiser from the collision center thats been putting me on the defensive so hopefully the insurance continues to back me. Its what I pay them for.

 

Thanks for the support guys!

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Actually, any 1954 and newer vehicle is considered a smog controlled vehicle as CA had programs back that far. But let's not turn this into another endless prattle from uninformed in and out-of-staters discussing SMOG.

 

Ray, what are this guys means? If you sued him in Small Claims Court and garnished his Tax Returns until paid.....you may be better off. Insurance is there for a reason, but there are downfalls to actually using it in some instances. it may be difficult since you are insured for uninsured motorist... Let me ask you, does that guy HAVE A CAR OR CAR INSURANCE (most people never think of this!) but just because he's on a bike doesn't mean he's off the hook for damages to a vehicle in a motor-vehicle accident! Now, considering where you are located...um....aaaaaahhhhh....how can I delicately say this? Was there one of the two most popular reasons in CA for him riding a bicycle? In which case Uninsured "Motorist" Insurance is your only hope in hell of getting some money back to repair the vehicle.

 

Your receipts for your parts installed are all valid to up the value.

Your time, unfortunately is worthless. They will only value INVOICES. Now, if you had your own business, and were using that vehicle as an advertizing for said business, and you kept a log of your hours spent as record for the tax deductions... well, you would have to get a VERY Friendly CPA to do this after the fact.

 

PLEASE EVERYONE HEED YET ANOTHER SAD EXAMPLE:

 

GET YOUR CAR APPRAISED WHEN YOU FINISH MAJOR PORTIONS OF YOUR BUILD! Most appraisers will come and value your car before you start. They will charge you a discounted fee to come back and re-appraise it (after painting, for example)and if you do this at each step it may be as simple as taking good clear photos to add to his file and he can do it for you over the phone or via e-mail.

 

Having an appraisal BEFORE you have an accident makes this process MUCH easier.

 

Doing it after the fact is a PITA. It's not impossible, but it is SO MUCH EASIER when the appraisal is done BEFORE an incident. And the better you know the appraiser, the quicker you get your updates.

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Alright so a bit more bad luck. My car was hit AGAIN! Parked properly at a curb on North Fremont st in Monterey Ca. I had to have the car towed home. There is significant superficial damage. The rear left quarter and bumper are toast. The rear left a arm and strut are toast. The front left fender, headlight bucket, side marker, and bumper are toast. Toast= beyond reasonable repair in my opinion. And 3 out of 4 rims are toast with tires.

 

Guy in a 88 mustang hot rodded himself across lanes and into my Z using his left front to smash my rear and left side to smash my front as he ended up turned around the wrong way on the street.

 

I came running out of my work yelling "WTF! ARE YOU F_ING SERIOUS WTF, F!" Then they guy almost took off again and I yelled "YOU BETTER PULL THE F OVER MOTHER FER!" Not my day.

 

The damage is not un fixable. Ive totally fixed worse! So not those cars that I fixed were just practice right?

So now I really have to determine the "Damage Threshold" here for the vehicle.

So I need to call you all out here! Anyone within 500 miles of 93907 Salinas Ca that has a 260Z in stock shape or an rb25 swapped 260Z that is either listed for sale or has been appraised of value PLEASE send me your add or copy of your appraisal?

This will help me out with the claims adjuster greatly. Please forward this request to anyone that might be able to help me out!

 

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Edited by rayaapp2
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