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mclark999

Best adhesive for fiberglass to metal bond

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I know I could search through the archives, but I also know that technology and products change so I want current advice.

 

I'm going to be gluing my Velo Rossa tub to my Z next weekend.

 

What is your opinion on the best fiberglass to steel adhesive? Anything you would definitely tell me to avoid using?

 

Thanks for your advice,

 

Michael

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I know I could search through the archives, but I also know that technology and products change so I want current advice.

 

I'm going to be gluing my Velo Rossa tub to my Z next weekend.

 

What is your opinion on the best fiberglass to steel adhesive? Anything you would definitely tell me to avoid using?

 

Thanks for your advice,

 

Michael

 

I used 3M 08116 panel adhesive to glue my flares and side skirts. I am very happy with the results. You will need a duel caulking gun which is about $70 but it mixes the stuff as it comes out so you know its mixed right. 08116 has a fairly long setup time so you have time to adjust if you need to. You probably want to get some extra nozzles for it too since you can't reused them.

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Go to the local auto paint store and ask..As deja said 3M and SEM make a bunch of these products that are bullet proof... High dollar but I had a rep do a demo when I worked in a body shop that showed them being stronger than welds, pulled w the frame machine and showed more psi to pull apart the glue... Most new cars like camaros and such have their panels glued on with this stuff...

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I work in the industry and this is what you should use. Same thing Freightliner uses to glue on their fiberglass roof caps. Photo023.jpg With a 90 minute work time you likely wont need more than one mixing nozzle. Panel bond would work to. I have extra cases of new cartridges of both. Let me know how many cartridges you want and I can save you a few bucks.

Edited by Heroez

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I would love to know the difference between 08116 vs 08274 and why you would recommend 08274 over 08116. I am also going to be applying fiberglass over metal and am looking for the absolute best of what will eventually fail and crack my paint. At least that's what everyone keeps telling me. Any insight from someone in the industry would be greatly appreciated.

 

Josh

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I use 08115 panel bond. 08274, Its used to bond fiberglass to metal by motor manufactures, and other uses. Its basicly the same thing as panel bond, but small differences that dont really matter much. Both of them are much better than Fusor that used to be commonplace 10 years ago. For making the transition from fiberglass to steel, panel bond would be a great added step to the bonding process. There are other 2 part products that are handy too. There is a plastic repair material with work time as fast as 50 seconds, 3 minute, that comes in handy for repairing ABS type plastics. Bumper covers, plastic trim. Clear epoxies. You can use denatured alcohol to wipe around edges and it wont interfere with the curing of the epoxy. Another tip on cleaning up is to allow it to wait untill it starts to kick to clean it up. Wait for the stage when its like wax, and trim excess with a razor, pulling it off. Any residue on a surface is easily cleaned up right after trimming. You can treat edges like caulking to give a clean look. Mask off the lines, smooth it down and then pull off the tape.

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I would use 08274 because the cartridge fits into my pneumatic glue gun. I could empty that cartridge in less than a minute. The 08115 is made to fit a smaller gun and the small one I have is hand powered. It would take much longer to get all around the the car with manual cartridge panel bond. The difference between the 2 is the lable, quantity and cartridge style. The goo inside is the same.

Edited by Heroez

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The rep for our supplier says the air powered guns are about 200 dollars. The one in my picture is a Swiss made gun by Mixpac. Type DP 400-85. Its been used for over 8 years and will go several more. It will likely be operating the day its phased out. Yes its been dropped a lot. Had cartridges explode in it. Its so robust I havent seen or payed attention to another brand or model. Sorry about the confusing posts. My concentration is not good. Spent a day out in a drizzle rain chasing a ghost on an 83 turbo and got sick.

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That would be fine. There is much to say about the old ways. Im a big fan of the old ways myself. I still strip paint by sanding and spot blasting. Could I live without panel bond? Yes. It can be handy, but we all have gotten by fine before it was available. It would be interesting to compare the 2 techniques. It could be your top gear challenge. Which one is faster? Appearance, cost, and strength should be scored. A race inside the shop. Im sure you have been there before.

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I don't trust chemical adhesives with differing types of materials. I would pop rivet the parts on then blend the seams into the existing body work. Old school but its tried & true.

 

I used pop rivets and adhesive. The bare metal has to be epoxy primed, then scuffed before panel bonding.

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