Puzzle under the hood?!
Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:49 PM
The car sat for 15 years before I got to it, and I did a fairly extensive freshening up on it. I did the carbs (flat tops), re & re on the engine, high lift cam, ported head (N42). The ign is original points, but received all new parts. Then all the new metal.
The car worked great for 2.5 months then one day a problem arose. I drove the car to work in the morning, but when I went for lunch I started the car and let it idle for a minute. It started fine but then developed a little miss. I thought maybe the carbs picked something up ( I did a lot of work to get them working well/reliably) so I took it out for a burn. The problem got worse as I went and it seemed to me that the car had developed an electrical fault. It drove like someone was switching the key on and off... Once I got back to work it died and would not restart.
It has lots of spark (new coil and condenser last week)
TDC verified on the dampener
Cam Timing Checked OK
Tank drained & new fuel (last week)
Distributor drive shaft OK
No vacuum leaks
Front carb re & re and seemed OK, both seem to be working OK
I have hot wired the coil direct from the battery to eliminate electrical/resistor problems
Compression was 145 psi after break in and is the same today
The only way the car will start and run is if I advance the timing to 30 or 40 degrees. When I get it running I cant retard it past 20 degrees or it sputters and dies.
I am at a loss... any insight would be appreciated
Posted 22 February 2012 - 09:08 PM
Posted 23 February 2012 - 04:50 PM
any other suggestions?
I am beginning to lean towards carburation again, but when I drove it the last time it really felt electrical. If there was a fuel shut off solenoid failing I might go there, but ... I dunno. Stupid flat tops.
Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:29 PM
Focus on the distributor.
Edited by NewZed, 23 February 2012 - 06:34 PM.
Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:49 PM
I restored a Z a few years back that had been sitting in a field for about 15 years and I thought I had the fuel tank very clean before I put it back on but I did not. After I got it back on the road I had to change the fuel filter quite often for awhile due to very fine rust plugging up the filter. Might check your filter and replace it. After 15 years there is going to be a lot gunk and rust in the tank.
Posted 23 February 2012 - 07:10 PM
Yeh Newzed, I am casting a pretty wide net. When I start the car you can definitely tell that it is overadvanced. It kicks a bit, but like a wounded dog it realizes I am trying to help and starts up reluctantly. If I retard it 10 degrees it won't even try to start.
Edited by ryanonthevedder, 23 February 2012 - 07:40 PM.
Posted 23 February 2012 - 08:35 PM
Posted 23 February 2012 - 09:19 PM
Posted 25 February 2012 - 07:21 AM
Lol, thanks Zark. Yes there was a lot of gunk in that tank. Thankfully I hot tanked it, acid washed it, and gave it the por 15 treatment. No dirt in the fuel sys.
Pull the fuel filter and dump the contents into a clean container, check for water. This could cause the fuel cut like symptoms you described.
Posted 25 February 2012 - 10:04 AM
Yep, been there already. Dumped the filter, drained the tank and did a re & re on one carb; all clean and dry. I am going to get rid of the distributor and flat tops. Time for electronic ign and SUs, 'nuff farting around.
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