gmanatc97 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) I finally got tired of putting off the rust repair on the rear hatch deck lid area. I had planned on buying the repair panel from the Z store, but wanted to see exactly what the damage was first. Thought this might help those on this site with the limited metal working skills like myself. This is what I started with. I was able to cut the top piece off by drilling through the old spot welds. I found that most of the metal under the top piece was still pretty good. There were a few spots, mostly towards the corners, that really needed attention. So I gridded down until I saw clean metal all across the top and around the edges. Looking at what I had, I realized that even if I bought the repair panel, it would only replace the top. I had to do something about the underside. So I got to it. Here is how I repaired the left side that had rusted through. The rust went all the way from the outer edge to lip that the weather stripping attaches. I started by cutting out the bad metal and tried to keep the cuts in a straight line. Then I made a template out of cardboard and used it to cut the patch piece out of 22GA steal. I got a piece about 2'x2' from Lowes for around $20. Please excuse the welds, I had a hell of a time getting the weld hot enough to penetrate the new steal without burning a hole in the old sheet metal of the body. I welded from the outer edge up to the first bend. That would give me an anchor on either side to bend the first section. Then I took a scrap piece of 1" square stock that I used for my fuel cell cage. I cut it down the same width as the top of the patch panel to give me something to bend the entire piece as straight as I could. Worked surprisingly well. I used two C-clamps to secure the square stock in place and to bend the steal. I did the same for the very top lip section. Welded up to the next bend and used the square stock in the same way. When I cut the patch panel I made it a bit longer than I needed so I would not come up short and would have something to grab and bend. It would have been a pain to try and bend a 1/4" lip. And here is what I was left with before trimming it up, welding the rest, and grinding it down. And now the finished product, sort of. Edited June 26, 2012 by gmanatc97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) Do you have more pictures? only the first one is showing up edit nvm they showed up That's damn good. Edited June 26, 2012 by BluDestiny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmanatc97 Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 So now I have about 3/4 of the top piece left that is still useable. I am at a cross roads. The way I see it I have three options. 1. Do I buy the replacement top panel from the Z store? 2. Do I use what I have and just add metal to it to extend it to the corners? 3. Do I just cut the top piece so it is even on both sides from the middle and weld it back on. Option three is a little outside the box and I have not seen anyone do it. I could cut it even with the flares for the tail lights That way I still have the stock points for the license plate and lights for it. Then I could just make the rest of the top as flat as I can with body filler without having the lip that protrudes out. Looking for any advise or suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmanatc97 Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) Yeah, sorry about that BluDestiny, I posted it and when I reviewed what I posted I realized my pics where WAY too big. You must have been reading it as I was changing the pics out. They should be back up now, let me know if they are still not there. How long have you had your Z in Daytona? I moved up to NC about 2 years ago from the Daytona/Palm Coast area. Would have been inspiring to see some finished Zs while I was there. Miss the beach! Edited June 26, 2012 by gmanatc97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Its been coming and going, mostly with the school year. Freshman year I had my blue 260z, drove that back for summer and sold it about a year ago, then the next year I had my 81 280zx 2+2, took it back home and crashed that and now I have my 80 280zx coupe. Freshman yr Sophmore yr (before and after rattle can) POS I'm rolling in now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmanatc97 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 So I mocked up the tail lights with the top piece removed. Its been so long since I had the lights and the tail light covers on the car. Looks like I am going to have to put the top piece back on AND finish extending it to the corners like it was. There is a 1/2" gap between the metal and the covers. Oh well it was worth a look and a thought. Back to fabrication, welding and grinding. It just really never ends! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestlowrida Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Looking good! I have to do the same thing on my 71' 240z. I wish I had the space too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perfect240z Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 I bought the deck lid from the Z store. Im happy with it. I still have to put it on though and repair the area you fixed. You want to fly to cali and repair mine? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmanatc97 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 I would, but that is a hell of a plane ride! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 That started off looking pretty bad, but turned out well. What I find when I encounter original metal that doesn't seem to hold up well to trying to weld a piece of new metal to it is that it usually also needs to be cut out, unless you're just trying to weld together two very different thicknesses of metal. Many time more metal will need to be cut out than you think, or even would like to, to get back to a good solid piece of metal to weld the new material to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have a REALLY good hatch off of my 74 260 that I would sell for a reasonable price if someone is interested instead of making a career fixing a bad one! One problem is I live in Spokane, WA, a million miles from anywhere! I also have another decent hatch (not as good as the other, but much better than the ones I have seen on this thread!), also off of a 74. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Greek Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have a REALLY good hatch off of my 74 260 that I would sell for a reasonable price if someone is interested instead of making a career fixing a bad one! One problem is I live in Spokane, WA, a million miles from anywhere! I also have another decent hatch (not as good as the other, but much better than the ones I have seen on this thread!), also off of a 74. I feel like an idiot, I did not look at the pictures, but just the title of this thread. I did not realize the repair was of the car, not the hatch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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