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'72 240z RB25DET, no more ITB


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Wiring was this weekend! I had a spare RB26 plastic loom from the harness I stripped that I wired the L28 with. When I wired the L28ET about 3 years ago, it was the mirror image of a RHD RB car. This means the wires were about the correct length as the L28 has the intake on the drivers and I put the computer on the passenger side. Now fast forward to the RB, the intake is now on the same side as the ECU. Someone who has done an SR swap in a LHD car knows how much extra wire there is. So this weekend was spent cutting the wires down to make it clean. I didnt cut that much due to the RB leaning the opposite way as the L28, so the wire route was actually only 4 inches closer. I really only cut out 2 inches because I wanted the harness to make an easy bend at the firewall. Not sure if I want to put the O2 wiring in the engine harness because I like that there is zero wires on the drivers side. I could just take the O2 wire down the side of the transmission on the passenger side to hit the back of the header to hide it.

The wires loosely sitting in the RB26 loom

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With the top of the loom on. Still missing a couple plugs, like the 6 wire for the mid harness and the 4 wire for the CAS. I went ahead and put the pins there, just gotta slide them in the shell.

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And now for the money shot. I really like this angle. (yes, the foglights are crooked)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Worked on the vacuum collector bracket today. Trying to get everything buttoned up underneath the intake so I dont have to take the velocity stacks off anymore. I didnt want the vacuum block to flop around like I had it in the drift car. Also installed the coolant and fuel hoses underneath the intake as well. I also added a tab for the dipstick to bolt to.
 
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  • 2 weeks later...

So after much waiting for funds to get this from my buddy while I was in Japan, I have married the header back to the motor. It will need a decent amount of fabbing to clear the steering shaft. I think I am going to reposition the front collector to go parallel to the rear section and squeeze under the strut rod bushings. The final collector does hit the floor, but if I rotate it towards the transmission, it will be fine. Now for the pics, it totally fits without the steering shaft installed.

 

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Worked on the front half of the manifold today. I cut the secondary off of the front section and fitted it with the steering shaft installed. I cut the collector off and noticed that one of the primaries ran right through the shaft. I decided to cut the primaries off the flange and rearrange them. now I have about an inch of clearance on the shaft. I finished the welds and threw it on for a test fit. Next I have to fit the secondary pipe on the front section. With all this work, I could have just built a manifold.
 
 
Test fitting with zip ties.
 
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Welding the primaries together before the collector gets welded.
 
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Test fitting
 
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Look what happened tonight, 4 years later. That hissing noise is the idle valve. I might make the "hot" idle through the throttles themselves to quiet it down.
 
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Things yet to do:

  Sort the radiator hoses
  hook up brake booster line
  install the header gaskets, yeah its straight from head to header right now
  replace my fried wideband
  street tune (no more drift tuning)
  belts
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Use a muffler. This thing is going to be pretty loud anyway. The thing sounds kinda raspy right now, but should quiet down when I finish up the exhaust. I have a 2 bolt flange on order, the flanges are kinda clamped together temporarily with vice grips because I wanted to see it run tonight.

 

It doesnt really like to rev right now due to the fact I havent hooked up the TPS. Still gotta work on the bracket. I want to heat cycle the motor this weekend before I pack it up while I am away in Arizona for an exercise, Marine Corps!

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Mounted the radiator hoses today and heat cycled the engine. While it was idling, I worked on the idle air valve and made sure it was working properly. It was quite surprising that the idle valve can only raise the idle around 500rpm at 100% duty. This helps with cranking as well, now I don't need to add throttle to start it. Now the fan doesn't dip the idle. I also ran the booster hose. Not too much more I can do till I leave next week. Still need to work on the TPS, procrastination.....

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Decided to go a different route with the TPS sensor. I originally tried to run the Nissan sensor that I had but I wasn't able to line it up correctly. I found out that earlier GM sensors had a lever with a tab on it. This would allow me to weld a tab on the spring plate on the side of the throttle body. This way any misalignment wouldn't cause binding, the tabs would just slide over each other.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Been driving the car with the new setup for the past couple days. Runs pretty good, been squaring away the idle valve with startup and warmup. I think the RB26 IACV has seen better days because it only idles up the car to about 1400 at full duty and running temp. I want more because at startup and warmup, I want the engine to spring to life. My G35 revs up to about 1800 immediately after start, and tapers to whatever the idle is at that temp. I have a VAG idle valve, Volkswagen I think, that you could drive the car down the road with. I think it will idle a car at like 3000rpm at full duty.

 

Its not as fast as the turbo, but boy does it sound cool. The cell phone camera doesnt do it justice.

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  • 2 months later...

Been squaring away a lot of tuning and putting some miles on it. So far its got about 600 miles on it and it is getting stronger. Its been rainy here so I havent driven it as much as I would like. I did add some code in the body control module (BCM) that will make life easier. The auto head light feature now functions as intended, although it comes on a shade darker than I would like. Just need to take the laptop out at dusk to see what light level I want the headlights to come on. I added a feature that automatically turns on the headlights when the wipers are on, since its the law.  I also installed both remote power door locks and power windows using the Subaru window motors.

 

Now I have finished the code that turns on the dome light and flashes the turn signals when unlocked and locked. The horn chirp is there too, but my horns are not hooked up yet to the IPDM, which is what chirps the horn in modern Nissans. A sharp eye in the video will spot the smooth transition of the dome lights, I wanted some modern flavor. I only installed LEDs on the one brake light so far, so the incandescent bulb below it makes it look funny, clear single element LEDs are on the way.

 

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