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280z turbo swap


laxz6

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Hey i just put in a turbo motor in my 280z. I have the turbo ecu and harness all connected. I have power to the coil and i have fuel. The problem is that the coil somehow doesn't send it to the distributor. I think its the module in the distributor that might be fried?

 

post-14262-031720500 1341895486_thumb.jpg Are those wires suppose to be connected together? The blue, green, and red?

 

post-14262-005516900 1341895464_thumb.jpg This 3 white connectors and the white stripe, do those just have to be connected to themselves?

 

post-14262-093521000 1341895419_thumb.jpg Are those wires connected properly? When i connected them, they gave me power to the other wires.

 

post-14262-003462800 1341895519_thumb.jpg Im not sure where the yellow wire goes to, and where the white connector goes to?

 

post-14262-081000000 1341895545_thumb.jpg Im using the stock coil and do these connectors have to be used?

 

post-14262-089419700 1341895605_thumb.jpg I have no idea what these are?

 

post-14262-029172700 1341895654_thumb.jpg I used the stock NA distributor and connected it to these connections. I got spark to the plugs and everything. Im not sure why the turbo distributor isn't working?

 

post-14262-008406700 1341895678_thumb.jpg Now to the real question i have this plug from under the dash that was connected to the NA harness, but the turbo harness has a 8 pin connector. do i have to get the female connector the the turbo car, and wire it with the plug under my car?

 

post-14262-039257800 1341895739_thumb.jpg This is the 8 pin connector, guessing it connects to the plug with 4 wires under the dash?

 

I really just need spark from the distributor because thats the only thin not making my car fire, i think my distributor is fried and i need to connect the connections from under the dash to the harness? Any help is appreciated thanks.

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Hey guys so i figured out everything, except the distributor. The motor turns over and i have fuel, but i have the distributor out with the coil plug on the intake. I then move the distributor shaft by hand to see if it makes the coil sparks, but it doesn't. I only hear the injectors ticking when i move the shaft. I have no clue if i have the wiring right? Any help guys?

 

P.S. i bought the motor running, then towed it 300 miles and wouldn't start. I thought it might be something easy so started with the swap. Maybe the ecu is fried or the distributor?

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Download the FSM for the year of turbo ECU you're using and read the Engine Fuel and the Electrical sections.

 

If you have injectors ticking, then the ignitor (the transistor mounted next to the coil) would be the next place to look.

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I just downloaded the FSM right now. The ignitor, when i connect it it makes a tick sound, only once... Is that normal? I also tested the T plug from the ignitor with a tester. the horizontal side male and female both have power. I think thats wrong right?

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The Black/white wire should have +12V at IGN ON - it supplies power to both the Ignitor and Coil. The Yellow is the "trigger" signal from the ECU and shouldn't be showing battery voltage ever, IIRC... The ECU controls the firing of the coil. The "Ignitor" is a transistor (ignition unit) that amplifies the signal from the ECU to a value that will cause the coil to fire. Re-check that particular wiring to the ECU.

 

If you haven't read this by now: Most common problem with these old EFI and ECCS systems is wiring, connections, and connectors! They corrode over the years. Check and clean them all - then do it again...

 

Oh... The Ignitor is a transistorized "solid state" component (not a relay or anything) - I've never known one to "click". You don't have any cracks in the coil do you?

 

You CAN'T use an N/A distributor on a turbo engine. They are two DIFFERENT animals. On the Turbo engine, the distributor holds the Crank Angle Sensor (optical wheel built in). The ECU uses the CAS signal to know when to fire the injectors and when to fire the coil. The 4 wires from the turbo dizzy need to be properly connected to the ECU. ALL the methods of testing the wiring and components are spelled out in the FSM. Pretty easy to do if you follow the testing and troubleshooting guide in the FSM.

Edited by cgsheen
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Thanks guys!! Without hybridz I couldn't have done the swap. My ignitor wasn't working and my coil. Plus I didn't have power to the ecu. I just followed the swap guide. Now my car runs great! Thanks

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  • 7 months later...

hello, im new to this site and im taking a long shot someone will answer. All the pictures that were posted above by the other member are the same questions i have but can not figure out. i have a 1977 280z with a 6 pin connector i need to hook up to the 8 pin??? this is driving me crazy.

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