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~73 Turbo L28 to N/A RB25 240z Project~


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Well as bad luck would have it the header doesn't work at all. I figured since I got the last one to work this one should have been able to work too but there's just no way. The collector hits the trans bell housing. This is really demotivating and an extreme waste of money. I'll have to use the stock unit for now. I wonder what it would cost to have the header re-engineered and made to fit...sigh.

Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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Thats weird that it hits the bell housing in that its made for the RB25. I could understand if it hit the frame rail or the floor board.

Yeah it is, I expected it to be really tight and need some modification like my previous one but not be completely unusable.. At least I'll have decent start to a custom made one down the road with some nice equal length runners.

Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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Got ol girl home today! Loud as hell with open header. Hoping to get the exhaust put back on next week. It's a weird feeling to get in the car turn it on and drive worry free. Tach isn't working yet as I need to have the resistor wired in still.

 

R200. A 3.9 Ratio or higher is a must for an N/A set-up like this!

 

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Aluminum drive shaft ordered through Mckinney

 

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Shot of the Mckinney mounts, Pat1/Enjuku oil pan

 

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Here's a teaser shot for right now, just got her back home so I need to wash and tidy up some things under the hood. Fitment is great, the motor looks natural in there..

 

EngTease_zpsexdvxxyi.jpg

Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the exhaust put back together, stayed with the old 3" crush bent so I wouldn't half to pay for a whole new set-up. It straight through with an 18" resonator and it's extremely loud. So loud I don't even want to drive it around. Sounds like I'm going 80mph when I'm only doing 30mph! I've got a small straight through 14" muffler on the way which hopefully will tone it down otherwise I may have to rethink the whole 3" idea.

 

(edit: the exhaust was too loud due to some vac lines needing to be re routed and the ecu not being adjusted)

 

The shift lever position was perfectly centered and I'm using a shift knob out of an old Datsun truck . Thread pitch is the same as the skyline and the white lettering flows well with the factory gauges and radio, nice stock appearance.

 

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I found this custom painted engine cover from a guy in Australia. It's made to look like carbon fiber weave and it's really hard to tell that it's not. I see black powder coated engine bits in my future..

 

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Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been spending my time sorting out all the vacuum issues I came across recently. My friend who dropped the motor in asked me if I wanted him to clean up all the unnecessary vac lines that were no longer needed and I said sure. Well he went a little to far and removed and blocked off some very important things. First there's a variable air intake control solenoid valve which is in place to open the butterfly valve in the intake manifold @ around 4700 rpm which aids in increasing low end torque. This valve was removed and the butterfly valve had direct vacuum which had it stuck open. Once I got the solenoid back in place the low end felt much better.

 

Next the car seemed to be running rich and the idle would dive and make the car shutter a bit when coming to a stop and pressing the clutch in. Came to find the idle air control valve's vacuum source was blocked off.  He most likely did this because the iacv requires it's air source from the air intake and I didn't have a vac port on it. I ordered a self sealing vac nipple to fit right into a silicone coupler. Had to order it from the UK..I didn't come across any US company's that made these unless I didn't look hard enough. Got the vac lines all attached and no more idle dip. Here's a pic of the vac port installed

 

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So now the car is running pretty danm smooth. The 3" exhaust with just a resonator was a bit too loud so I swapped the resonator out for a Jones Turbine muffler. Much deeper now and got rid of some of the excessive noise.

 

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Near future items will most likely be a 4 piston front brake kit..I've been putting off the brakes for too long now..and I want an ATI harmonic dampener. I can get the race model with none of the accessory belts needed. Should give me some increased response.

 

On a side note I finally got around to buying a ground control adjustment wrench and I've raised my rear end up an inch or so. No more rubbing now and wheel gap is on point.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got back to working on my glove box gauges. I ditched the boost gauge for a dedicated vac gauge. Don't have any use for the switch panel right now...looks kinda cool though.

 

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Wired everything in and works really well for me. Easily visible from the driver seat and totally hidden when I want it to be. AFR's seem to be good ..13.1 at WOT.

 

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Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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Well here's the result from raising my rear end up. I think it's just a little to high at the moment and needs to be dropped down a pinch but it's getting there. I also have 280z rear strut mount insulators now which raised the rear up but the lack of negative camber is bothering me. I'm not sure if the taller insulators are a result of my camber change or not. I got a set of MSA control arm camber adjustment bushings and went to get an alignment with intentions of getting a degree or so of negative camber but they said they couldn't do it. I'm thinking they didn't know what they were doing so maybe Ill have to try a professional shop for a proper alignment. What do you guys think?

 

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Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~
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