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~KnuckleDuster~

~73 Turbo L28 to N/A RB25 240z Project~

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winstonusmc    4

I am glad to see you finally put the check engine light to use. I like your location for the light, I might have to copy it. I am pretty sure I labeled the neutral safety switch on the harness, which might have something to do with it, or the clutch safety switch. Either way, you could just check codes periodically.

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Ereschkigal    0

I always read in the s13 community to avoid Nistune in favor of Ecu Master or Haltech or something like that. Just this morning a friend told me about Realdash support for Ecu Master.

 

edit: I just asked him again why to avoid Nistune,he said because it's relatively expensive and has less functions than a stand alone ecu.

He may be biased because he just bought an ECU Mastere ecu for his JZ swap  :P

Edited by Ereschkigal

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winstonusmc    4

Especially if you go ITB. Any MAF computer will not know how to handle open air ITB. Unless you are planning to run the plenum, that would just be silly, JK. I though about running the plenum in the beginning when I had problems with the MS3 not revving, but those days are long gone. Haltech elite 750 is a good option, and isn't too expensive. I know a guy that can hook you up to wire that...

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Especially if you go ITB. Any MAF computer will not know how to handle open air ITB. Unless you are planning to run the plenum, that would just be silly, JK. I though about running the plenum in the beginning when I had problems with the MS3 not revving, but those days are long gone. Haltech elite 750 is a good option, and isn't too expensive. I know a guy that can hook you up to wire that...

If and when, I do plan on running the plenum since I've got everything for it already and I can focus on getting that running right before I go all out crazy haha. The company that makes the manifold adapter plate says you won't be able to run VCT with it but there in the process of making an adapter to retain VCT. If I can keep VCT on the car I'll likely go for it. How did you get around this?

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winstonusmc    4

I have known people that run the spacer and they had to delete the VCT. Mine never had the VCT. I use the RB25DE block from the R32, it wasn't VCT. I did this because it didn't have the oil passage that runs the system and uses the same head gasket as the RB26. This allowed me to bolt the RB26 head and ITBs to it. So no solenoid for me, or spacer.

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The car had another episode of what seemed to be running on 5 cylinders again. Now that I know what that feels like I suspected another coil pack had kicked the bucket. Check engine light was on and sure enough another coil pack died 20 miles or so after the last one. Figured the 11 year old coils were done for so ordered a whole set of OEM packs. I was considering Splitfires but heard stories of them going out quickly. For an N/A motor I'm sure the Nissan units are just fine.

 

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Figured this was a good opportunity to finally get rid of the old nasty valve covers. I was anxious to see the condition of the inside of the heads and to my surprise there was zero burnt or or sludge anywhere. It looked brand new inside.

 

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Looks good with out all that non sense on top..

 

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All back together. I painted the Neo Sraight 6 lettering silver to match the other lettering.

 

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Test drove her with the new coil packs and shes feeling better than ever. Sounding nice and healthy too!

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Posted (edited)

Picked up a Kamaeri rear strut bar in an attempt to stiffen up this old chassis. Worked well rear end feels much tighter. I attempted the Kameari front bar which was rumored to clear the top mount intake manifold on the RB but it didn't. Ill have to have one made custom or wait and see if I go the ITB route.

 

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I was on the hunt for a more functional shift knob. The old knob while looking somewhat period correct was from a Datsun 720 pickup truck and was too small in the hand for fast shifting and the hard plastic with a sweaty palm combo was just asking for mis-shifts under pressure. After much searching about I settled on the OEM knob from the last generation 240sx (S15). Perfect fit in the hand and doesn't look aftermarket. I does have an S on it for Silvia but that could be for S30?!? The thread pitch of this knob is unlike most Nissans. I had to find a M10x1.25 to M12x1.25 adapter.

 

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In the process of putting together a new video with the new header music but it's slow going..

Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~

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Posted (edited)

Shortly after putting in the new coil pack I started having another performance issue. Car seemed down on power and started running lean. Then finally progressed into hard starting where a throttle blip was necessary to keep her running. So I figured one of the last untouched items on the car should be swapped out, the fuel pump. I bought a Walbro 255 to replace the unknown branded pump that had a date of 2006 stamped on it. When I removed the old one I pulled out a chunk of medal and saw other rusty looking debris inside. I bought a mesh screened fuel filter to go in between the tank and the pump to catch whatever nasty crap still lurks inside my tank. you can open it up and clean it out which is nice.

 

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Does anyone know what this fuel pump bracket is from?

 

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Edited by ~KnuckleDuster~

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Got the OBD1 consult plug wired in and ordered a PLMS USB Adapter with  the Nissan Data Scan program. I installed everything on a spare laptop which will just be for the Z now which will have FSM's for the 240z and R34 on it. Extremely happy with how this turned out. It's a great tool to have especially if I attempt the ITB route.

 

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Been slowly working on the RB26DETT ITB's. They were pretty filthy..

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After a lot of elbow grease..

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There is a coating from the factory that helps seal the butterflys at idle because the butterfly plate have small gaps around them that air can pass through, when you clean it off you can have a high idle and even a lack of throttle response. I ordered a can of Molykote 321 to re-coat the inside. I'll show this later on.

Next up I'll be port matching the manifold to the throttle bodys. I'm quite surprised how much of a lip sticks out. This will all be make flush and any extra rough casting areas will be removed and smoothed.

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Marking out the areas to be massaged..

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