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'73 240Z rear hub bearings


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#1 Scarab73

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 04:32 PM

Hey Guys,
I went out for a roadie this weekend. Out of the "blue" I get this, somewhat, weird vibration out of the RRear. So, I get back to the garage, jack'er up, remove the wheels and start looking. I pull and tug on the universals, no play. While I'm there, I lube the outers. The inners seem to be a PITA. So, I'm rotating the axels and hear, like a dry bearing sound? It's smooth, but, noisy, if you know what I mean. Now, as far as history, I don't any, as I'v just take possession this past spring and the PO was not much on documenting anything. So, being new, where do these bearings get their lubrication, if any? I didn't find any thing loose that might cause a right rear vibration, thus far. The only thing I can come up with is wheel balance and bad rear shocks, at the moment.
Any ideas?
Scarab73
Severna Park, Md

#2 beermanpete

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 03:08 PM

The rear wheel bearings require removal to service. To remove the bearings you need to remove the stub axle. This is not difficult per se but it is not the same as the front wheel bearings. The nut holding the rear axle in is peened down to prevent loosing (later models use a Nylock self-locking nut). To remove the nut you have to grind off or lift the peened section (interestingly, the service manual appears to caution against this). If you do not do this the threads on the axle could be damaged. Once the nut is off the axle is pulled out using a slide-hammer tool. The factory service manual show the procedure reasonably well. Look at page RA-8 and RA-9.

#3 Scarab73

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 05:35 PM

The rear wheel bearings require removal to service. To remove the bearings you need to remove the stub axle. This is not difficult per se but it is not the same as the front wheel bearings. The nut holding the rear axle in is peened down to prevent loosing (later models use a Nylock self-locking nut). To remove the nut you have to grind off or lift the peened section (interestingly, the service manual appears to caution against this). If you do not do this the threads on the axle could be damaged. Once the nut is off the axle is pulled out using a slide-hammer tool. The factory service manual show the procedure reasonably well. Look at page RA-8 and RA-9.



Hi,
I much appreciate your reply. I'll take a look at this again. When I read through the shop manual for removing the hub bearing, there is no mention of any covered nut or grinding needed. After removing the wheel the hub has a solid center. Behind it are the 4 attachment bolts to the housing. My shop manual simply mentions to remove the 4 bolts, after disconnecting the universal on the other side. Then attach a slide hammer to the wheels studs and pop it out. See for reference....
Attached File  IMG_3068.JPG   179.17KB   83 downloads
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Attached File  IMG_3072.JPG   149.27KB   78 downloads
Scarab73
Severna Park, Md

#4 Scarab73

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 06:18 AM

Hey guys,
Regarding my mention of not seeing that "peened nut", I saw a drawing showing the wheel bearings and realize it's opposite of the wheel rim flange and I will need to gain access by first removing the out board universal from the inner bearing flange.
When I mentioned servicing the bearings, are they the type of bearing, one would grease pack?
Scarab73
Severna Park, Md

#5 rags

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 06:31 AM

Once you remove the peened nut, the flange that the halfshaft (4 bolts) mounts to will come off. Use the slide hammmer and pull the stub axle out from the outside. Once you do this you will see how the bearings are lubricated. Basically the hub houses grease the that lublrcates the bearings. Slap a handful of grease in the hub and reassemble.

Joe

Yep.... I'm a wanna be tuner :redface:

 

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#6 NewZed

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 07:51 AM

Changing the rear bearings is a big job. I've noticed that I can hear the bearings on my car also, but I've put 25,000 miles on them since I noticed. They weren't loose then and aren't now. They're not tapered roller bearings like in the front, they're ball bearings, which tend to be looser and noisier in general, in my limited experience. You might think twice before replacing.

But if you do, here's a good reference - http://atlanticz.ca/...ings/index.html

#7 Scarab73

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 10:05 AM

Changing the rear bearings is a big job. I've noticed that I can hear the bearings on my car also, but I've put 25,000 miles on them since I noticed. They weren't loose then and aren't now. They're not tapered roller bearings like in the front, they're ball bearings, which tend to be looser and noisier in general, in my limited experience. You might think twice before replacing.

But if you do, here's a good reference - http://atlanticz.ca/...ings/index.html



Hi,
Thanks for the very informative link. I learned a lot looking through your steps.
Scarab73
Severna Park, Md

#8 Lazeum

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 10:47 AM

...and for replacement, look for ref RW116 & RW117 as shown on blue website. You can get them for cheap on amazon or autozone for instance instead of buying them on dedicated Z stores. ;)

I was chasing for specific brand but when I ordered mine, I received SKF bearing in Timken box, so don't be too picky on the brand, they are all the same.


- Matt -
'72 240 - L28, P79, Rebello cam, 3xDCOE, Megajolt + Edis ign., etc.


#9 Scarab73

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 12:00 PM

Thanks guys. All good stuff to know.
Scarab73
Severna Park, Md

#10 Scarab73

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Posted 27 August 2012 - 04:07 PM

Hey Guys,
Success!! I found the source of my rear vibration. It actually got worse when I took a another gear-head out for a short ride. It vibrated so bad, he was ready to leap out of a moving "Z". LOL!
Anyway, after jacking it up, I started probing the half-shaft universals and found a couple of loose fastener that were hardware store grade crap. Then the real kicker was two of the drive-shaft to the pinion flange bolts were loose enough, that I could spend the lock washers. I plan to replace them all with grade 8 and self-locking nuts.
Thanks to all who steered me in this direction.

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Edited by Scarab73, 27 August 2012 - 04:10 PM.

Scarab73
Severna Park, Md

#11 daddydonuts

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 02:24 PM

Once you remove the peened nut, the flange that the halfshaft (4 bolts) mounts to will come off. Use the slide hammmer and pull the stub axle out from the outside. Once you do this you will see how the bearings are lubricated. Basically the hub houses grease the that lublrcates the bearings. Slap a handful of grease in the hub and reassemble.

Joe


I could not get my stub axle to budge...need bigger hammer???
1973 240Z
SU & 3 to 2 header
82 280ZX P79/F54

#12 beermanpete

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 07:53 AM

I could not get my stub axle to budge...need bigger hammer???


We used this slide hammer from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfre...r-kit-5223.html

It worked but took a lot of pounding. By the time we got the axles out the hammer and shaft was badly mushroomed where they make contact and the center of the adapter was cracked.

#13 daddydonuts

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 11:19 AM

We used this slide hammer from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfre...r-kit-5223.html

It worked but took a lot of pounding. By the time we got the axles out the hammer and shaft was badly mushroomed where they make contact and the center of the adapter was cracked.


I got the slide hammer from autozone w/attachment. My hands haven't been this tired since I was a teenager with the sports illustrated swimsuit edition.
1973 240Z
SU & 3 to 2 header
82 280ZX P79/F54

#14 Lazeum

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 11:21 AM

I would use a press. It's a quick job, you should get some help if you don't have one, it would be cheap.

Make sure to protect the threaded area with your old nut during the process.


- Matt -
'72 240 - L28, P79, Rebello cam, 3xDCOE, Megajolt + Edis ign., etc.


#15 GreenState

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:11 AM

I would use a press. It's a quick job, you should get some help if you don't have one, it would be cheap.

Make sure to protect the threaded area with your old nut during the process.


You have to have the whole assembly off the car to use a press, but if you do that's the easiest way.
1971 240z Long Term Project - Build Thread

#16 Lazeum

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:18 AM

that's a given but you bring a good point ;) it is not obvious if Daddydonuts is having the strut assy out of the car. (it is just a matter of removing the splindle pin, piece of cake!!! :D )

Edited by Lazeum, 19 September 2012 - 06:18 AM.

- Matt -
'72 240 - L28, P79, Rebello cam, 3xDCOE, Megajolt + Edis ign., etc.


#17 johnc

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 07:25 AM

so don't be too picky on the brand, they [wheel bearings] are all the same.


Absolutely not true! Stick with Timken, SKF, Koyo, or NTN. I speak from experience, use only those brand of rear wheel bearings. Had a failure with a generic Chinese bearing that ovaled the rear hub and galled a stub axle.
----- John Coffey, Fabricator at Benton Performance, LLC

#18 Tony D

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 10:14 AM

I'm with John on the last statement. It should be 'Stick with a reputable manufacturer and they are all similar'---I'm a follower of the top three on his list. I've gotten not had good luck with Polish FAGs or Chinese FAGs despite being a reputable name... Always had good luck with German FAGs though.
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#19 daddydonuts

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 10:32 AM

I did remove my hub and I'm using Timken seals. Now the hard part comes, that damn maxima bracket for my calipers...
1973 240Z
SU & 3 to 2 header
82 280ZX P79/F54

#20 Lazeum

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 03:40 AM

Absolutely not true! Stick with Timken, SKF, Koyo, or NTN. I speak from experience, use only those brand of rear wheel bearings. Had a failure with a generic Chinese bearing that ovaled the rear hub and galled a stub axle.


I agree as well with your statement. What I was saying was that when I was looking to source some bearings, I was picky with the brand & the cost. I bought some Timken units from Amazon but in Timken box, there was a SKF bearing and an NTN unit in the other Timken box. It seems brands are storing only some references. They share uncommon part numbers even if they are sold under different names.
Bottomline, no need to focus only on SKF brand for instance since you will likely receive something else. In my case, substitutes came from reputable suppliers, so I was fine with it.

- Matt -
'72 240 - L28, P79, Rebello cam, 3xDCOE, Megajolt + Edis ign., etc.





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