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SUNNY Z

Ford 8.8 IRS Conversion

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This is the solution to my diff mount loosening itself.

 

2 pieces of 1/4"x 2" strap welded to the crossmember. Seems to have eliminated my nasty 2nd gear wheel hop as well. I hope I don't have to take it out, because it was a PITA to put in..... even on my buddy's lift.

 

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Looks meaty enough, great idea.

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Looks meaty enough, great idea.

 

This bracing helped greatly, but made it a huge PITA to put in. Also, I noticed the last time i put it in that there is still a substantial amount of flex in this mount setup. I plan on making a new cage for this diff over the winter, and including more body mounting points to hopefully make it solid!

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Just so everyone has access to this (unless my photobucket crashes) I'm going to post these here. The formatting is a PITA to get from excel to look right. If you want the spreadsheet, I'll email it to you, just PM me.

 

I'd suggest saving these.....

 

881_zps9a6a6cc4.jpg

 

882_zps5ff4afc8.jpg

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How is the 280Z body holding up, in general?  No roll bar/cage yet, right?  Any signs of body flex, cracked paint or warped metal?  The question of 240Z vs. 280Z comes up occasionally and you've got a good test going.

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For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment.

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Just so everyone has access to this (unless my photobucket crashes) I'm going to post these here. The formatting is a PITA to get from excel to look right. If you want the spreadsheet, I'll email it to you, just PM me.

 

I'd suggest saving these.....

 

881_zps9a6a6cc4.jpg

 

882_zps5ff4afc8.jpg

 

For future record, I've got them saved now, and I'm the type that backs things up like a paranoid conspiracy theorist. Oh, and thank you for all your hard work. This is a serious contribution to the community that seems all too rare.

 

For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment.

 

Intense! Overall that's pretty impressive I think. It's always a good sign you've engineered your drivetrain well when the chassis becomes a limiting factor...

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For the 240z side of that question, I have separated the floor/tunnel seam at the back of the floor over the diff. I have cracks in my a-pillars and c-pillars but those existed before the swap. When I launch hard, the rear upper corner of my doors slaps the door frame and chips the paint occasionally. Other than that, I'm good for the moment.

Just to be clear for those who don't know, the cracks in the A pillars and C pillars are from the lead filler in the joint. It's not a structural crack in the sheet metal. And they occur on all S30s.

Edited by rturbo 930

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I love this idea and it will probably be the route I take in my all out 280 build.  Sunny if you had access/the skill set/material to a full machine shop would you have engineered any of your parts differently?  I ask because I work as a welder and have TIG/MIG/stick capabilities as well as multiple lathes and plasma torches.  The car will also be flipped over on a rotisserie to shore up the frame rails and floor boards so I will have full access to the under side of the car inside a shop.  Any lessons learned or suggestions that you care to share form this experience?  

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I love this idea and it will probably be the route I take in my all out 280 build.  Sunny if you had access/the skill set/material to a full machine shop would you have engineered any of your parts differently?  I ask because I work as a welder and have TIG/MIG/stick capabilities as well as multiple lathes and plasma torches.  The car will also be flipped over on a rotisserie to shore up the frame rails and floor boards so I will have full access to the under side of the car inside a shop.  Any lessons learned or suggestions that you care to share form this experience?  

 

Don't make the front mount as simple as I made mine.  With the shorter nose on the diff, it just turns the mount into a lever, and tries to push up whenever you accelerate.  I would build somewhat of a pinion snubber that attaches to the body, and limits travel in the up direction with a bushing.  Other than that, get your wheels where you want them before you build, if you decide to position them in the center of the wheel well like I did. Will help keep your axle angles correct.

Edited by SUNNY Z

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Thanks.  Two questions.  First could you use the Explorer differential that you got the cover from or is it a solid axle 8.8?  Second do you happen to know what tools would be needed to pull an 8.8 out of say a Lincoln Mark VIII or at least is there anything special I should take when I go pull it?  

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Thanks.  Two questions.  First could you use the Explorer differential that you got the cover from or is it a solid axle 8.8?  Second do you happen to know what tools would be needed to pull an 8.8 out of say a Lincoln Mark VIII or at least is there anything special I should take when I go pull it?  

 

Yes, you could use the 8.8 from the explorer. Most (if not all) came with 3.73's, so if thats what you're after it might be a good move for you.  Not sure on the MKVIII stuff, but the axles could be in the hubs pretty good and need a puller to get loose.

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Just wanted to say thank you so much. I am going with the 8.8" diff for my ls1 swap. I went ahead and bought the cobra lsd (posi) 31 spline with 3.73 gearing. I already bought the whole diff from a local u pull and pay salvage yard off a lincoln mark 8 for like 80 bucks. what a b**ch to remove if you didnt bring the right tools and doing it by your self (worth it though). The housing cover is the same as what you have with the two ears up front but the rear cover is the kind with 2 bolt holes in the middle of the cover.

 

Any ways the main thing i want to let everyone know is i wanted to adapt the 8.8" to the AZC mustache bar i just bought in a clean and structural manner. While browsing the web i found this by accident. This is what exactly i have been looking for. Something to allow me to make my own rear cover. All i have to do is add mounting points and a fill,drain and vent plugs. Since i dont have access to a machine to cut metal plating into any shape you want (in this case a flange) this works out perfectly and isnt that bad on price. Got to be able to weld or this may not work for some of you unless you take it to a shop.

 

Made by Blue Torch. You can even buy just the flange if you wanted to on their site. Just thought id share this for anyone else out there wanting to do a 8.8" diff swap.

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imagesashx1_zps0c5e1cb8.jpg

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What year Cobra?  (I tried to PM you, but it said "The user SunnyZ can not receive any more messages" or something like that....)

 

I'm leaning towards the Mark VIII aluminum housing IRS myself, for weight reduction if nothing else (besides ease of finding parts and the possibly high gear ratios that they came with.)

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