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Super easy CS130 install


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#1 Dan_Austin

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 08:30 AM

I've been putting off upgrading my alternator since installing a megasquirt
this summer, but the end of daylight savings time has also put an end
to my procastination.

I called a local rebuilder to pick up a 95A Maxima alternator, since the
parts stores in this area will not swap pulleys anymore. The shop owner
said she was not a fan of the Maxima unit, and suggested a Delco CS130
off an 88-90 Eagle Premeir/Dodge Monaco.

It turns out this is a dual foot unit with the mount lugs at 6 &12 like the
Nissan unit, and factory rated at 105A and has a lower activation RPM
compared to the Maxima alternator. The one I picked up was tested
and confirmed to max out at a 117A.

The unit required minor wiring tweaks, and slight massaging of the upper
bracket, but no major cutting. I skipped the bracket massage and picked up
a small turnbuckle at a hardware store, making this a straight bolt in project.

#2 BluDestiny

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:19 AM

pics?
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#3 Dan_Austin

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:13 AM

I did not snap any as the alternator was dimensionally identical to the 280ZX
unit it replaced and the turnbuckle tip was covered in the CS144/AD244 install
thread. I can take a couple later tonight and add them to the thread.

#4 NewZed

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 12:21 PM

Did the shop owner swap the pulleys? The internet says that the Premier/Monaco alternator is a six rib pulley, not v-belt. And, are you just using the S and L pins on the back of the alternator, connected to S and L at the car's T plug?


Looks interesting. Thanks for posting an extra option. How is it under low idle speed brown-out conditions - wipers, headlights, and heater on?


Here's a useful link for any future modifiers. Napaonline.com shows the pinout for the alt plug along with their product descriptions - http://www.napaonlin...551F_0209469829

#5 Dan_Austin

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 12:55 PM

The shop owner did swap the pulley. I went with the large GM pulley, which is similar in diameter
to the Nissan. A small GM pulley would have been about 18% faster, but she did not have one
in stock.

At idle the e-fans would pull the system with the previous alternator down to 11.9V, now it hovers
around 13.1, both values taken from the ECU voltage reading and logs. I did not check the lights
and other accessories, as the the fans were the biggest draw. And this is at a 750 RPM idle, by
800 RPM voltage is back up to 13.6, so it is a shame the small GM pulley was not available.

The correct pins are the S and L (leg of the T). The shop owner recommended not connecting the
sense lead, so I have it taped off for the moment, but can connect it if desired.

Edited by Dan_Austin, 27 November 2012 - 03:03 PM.


#6 Josh280z

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Posted 26 November 2012 - 05:50 PM

I'd be interested in some pics and part numbers for all this stuff.
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#7 Dan_Austin

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 07:46 PM

I can look up the part number for the alternaotr, but finding
it by make and model will likely be easier. The turnbuckle
and pulley do not have numbers on them.

The pulley is just a standard Delco (GM) v-belt, which a decent
shop should have on hand. The turnbuckle was a 3/8 X 7.75"
OSH special.

One small issue to watch for is the battery lug is low and on the
inside, putting it fairly close to the lower radiator hose. It cleared
by enough not to make me worry, but worth checking.

CS130 Dual foot lower

CS130 dual foot top


I almost had to retract my positive review today, having major
charging issues, but instead is seems a decent alternator can
quickly finish off a battery on its last legs.

#8 Josh280z

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 08:10 PM

Got any pics of the wiring?
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#9 Dan_Austin

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Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:26 PM

I replaced the externally regulated alternator for an internally
regulated one four years ago using the AtlanticZ write-up, so
no photos of that.

That leaves four wires on the alternator, the charge and
ground leads are self explanitory. The new alternator
connector has embossed labeling (PLIS or PLFS), with
only the L and S leads used. Connect the top of the T connector
to the S lead and the L to the leg of the T. The wires on
my T connector has discolored to the point that they look
the same, so a photo of them would not help much.

#10 NewZed

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:53 AM

I almost had to retract my positive review today, having major
charging issues, but instead is seems a decent alternator can
quickly finish off a battery on its last legs.


In Post #5 you said that you had left the S wire disconnected on the advice of the shop owner. Are you sure she didn't mean the L wire? With no (S)ense wire the alternator will put out maximum voltage. That might be what fried your battery.

#11 Dan_Austin

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 09:36 AM

The sense wire is now connected, and I think it did help
deliver the death blow. On the other hand the battery
was a store brand generic I bought five years ago that
was plagued with an underperforming ZX alternator for
years. Its time had come, and was on my list, I just wish
I had replaced it before I had to walk the 1.5 miles to the
parts store caring the old battery to be tested and back
carrying the replacement.

If the lamp was not connected the alternator would not
get excited and not charge at lower RPMs. She actually
suggested the full time charge full charge, but most of her
customers are building ridiculous stereo & lighting systems.

#12 Josh280z

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:01 PM

My general question was did you actually mess with the ZX wiring harness that goes to the alternator... I don't do good without a visual, and lately I've been getting home so late that I cant really see to look at any of this stuff.
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#13 darkstarrocker

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:53 PM

I just installed this alternator, and I'm getting crazy headlight dimming at idle from my modest stereo. What size pulley are you using? I'm certain mine is too big, seeing how small the serp. Pulley that came in the alt was.
It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.
-Hit it.
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#14 Dan_Austin

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 05:32 PM

I have about a 2.75" pulley on the alternatoer and the

Powerforce damper which is supposed to be about a 6"

pulley.  I have slight dimming with th idle at 750 RPM, but

none at 900 RPM.  A stock damper or a 2" alternator pulley

would help in my case.

 

I did initially have belt slipage that hurt the idle performance,

and once tightened past the point that I thought was too tight

idle output was very good.



#15 mikeatrpi

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Posted 31 December 2015 - 01:56 PM

Bringing this back up to add more info and details to the already excellent information here.  

 

I am upgrading an 82 280zx.  You can swap the stock 280zx pulley onto the 91 Dodge Monaco alternator and use the same belt.  The part number for the pigtail is Dorman 85854.  I drilled a bolt through the center and tapped it for a #8 screw to use as the ground lugs from Datsun are pretty small.  I also had to file out the main lug since the stud is slightly larger on this alternator.  Eventually I'd like to run new wiring back to the battery, but this was the easiest way to get the car back on the road.  

 

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82 280zx NA - T conversion MSnS-e Photo Log - Build Thread

#16 schicksal

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 10:45 AM

mikeatrpi did you crimp the F and L wires together on your harness? I'm trying to do this swap and bought the same pigtail.



#17 Dan_Austin

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 03:52 PM

The CS130 that I installed as part of this write-up died last month.  Sadly the local rebuilder I used

is no longer in business.  I found another who was closer, and who seemed well reviewed. 

 

It took several tries to get a workable alternator from them, with most issues being they did not follow

instructions about clocking or mount location/spacing.  When we got past those issues the results were

quite positive, with less voltage swing from idle to higher RPMs.  One thing they did get right on the first try

was my request for a smaller pulley.  I went from a 2.75" to a 2.375", which resulted in charging voltage

kicking in between 600 and 650 RPM, so no more dimming headlights while idling at a stop






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