duragg Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I guess I will order from www.nissanpartszone.com? The dealers just don't seem to want anything to do with this. I was thinking about replacing the shift fork for 1&2 but unfortunately I don't know the exact year of my tranny. They made some change mid-year in 1983 so I have no idea. My 1/2 shift fork has strange plastic dowels in it. My 3/4 and 5/R does not have them. http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=280ZX&ModelYear=1983&ModelSeries=S130&FileType=268&SelectConditions=(4=MT;5=F5;)&ShowConditions=(4=MT;5=F5;)&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=&ComponentsNo=328&PageID=28925#ctl00_cphView_pnlPartList Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I think they went to aluminum on the forks in the later years, and racers prefer steel. That's vague memory, so verify if you're going to act on it. I do have the conversion parts for manual adjust slave if you're interested. The slave with the adjuster, the spring, and the fork with the holes. I'll let it all go for $50 if you're interested. Even if you don't have an issue with the clutch disengaging, it's nice to be able to fine tune where it does engage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I admit to not knowing exactly what an adjustable slave is. Different than adjusting from the pedal side? Or does that allow you to set desired pedal height and then move the throwout from the slave side? The forks themselves are all Aluminum on the 3 FS5w71B I have worked on. Ordered all the other parts and hopefully have by weeks end. For this round as a basis for experiment I will just rebuild per stock book specs and see how that changes things. Still looking for a spare tranny I can get more aggressive on with other unknown mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 (edited) Allows you to fine tune the engagement height. You wouldn't use the slave as it has been sitting around for 8 years and probably isn't working (although it has low miles on it). The pin and spring can be put on any slave, and you would need the throwout fork obviously. Here is a picture: EDIT--BTW the steel forks might be on the earlier 4 speeds and 5 speeds. I know guys were double pinning them and safety wiring the pins in. I think the aluminum can wear and doesn't hold the pin in as reliably. Dennis Hale suggested running safety wire right through the roll pin and around the shaft to hold it, and that's easy enough to do. Edited January 28, 2013 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I did order a new 1/2 fork and just guessed on the year since I don't have the VIN of the donor. Also going to pick up an Arizona Zcar flywheel later today. 12lbs. I already am using his clutch. Try to support local vendors where I can and the quality looked great last time I was at his house. http://www.arizonazcar.com/clutch.html Now that I know how better to measure syncros and what to pay attention to I think this rebuild will be a lot better than last. I understand the box better now. And can pay more attention to the things I want to improve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 It might be interesting to put some blueing on the gear synchro cones and see the wear pattern of the new synchros before you put it together. You mentioned lapping in the drivetrain.com synchros. Went out and looked at a box of parts from a destroyed 80-83 5 speed I have and the 1-2 shift fork is aluminum with brass wear pads. It's the only trans I've had apart so don't know if it's normal or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Just got word from Nissanpartszone.com that the shift fork is discontinued. Trying to see if a replacement is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 (edited) FLASH: Just got a handy tech from Nissan to tell me the shift Rods are NLA> the new forks is superceded to 32808-Q0101 for $65 from dealer. $35 from NPZ. I suppose the 1/2 fork takes most of the beating. Yay: 32800-E9415 ROD ASSY-FORK NLA 32805-Q0101 FORK SHIFT Edited January 28, 2013 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 It might be interesting to put some blueing on the gear synchro cones and see the wear pattern of the new synchros before you put it together. You mentioned lapping in the drivetrain.com synchros. Went out and looked at a box of parts from a destroyed 80-83 5 speed I have and the 1-2 shift fork is aluminum with brass wear pads. It's the only trans I've had apart so don't know if it's normal or not. When you do lapp them together, they make a real visible grey-ing of the surfaces and you can see the perfect wear pattern. My best friend owns a machine shop that does nothing but Lapping, Honing and Superfinishing, so I had some help on that one. But reading other forums that the Drivetrain.com synchros are junk. Regardless, now I know how to measure and what I am looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 That AZ Z Car flywheel and clutch plate looks exactly like mine... That puck is not what I went with, looks like a stage 3 or 4 puck. I wonder if he sources his parts from competition clutch, thats where I got all my parts. I had my transmission rebuilt here locally, and they used the GM Syncromesh fluid. It will be interesting to see how much difference there is in our cars since they will be similarly setup. So when I see you on the track Duragg next month, Ill know all your secrets... unfortunately you know mine too lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Yep, sure does look the same. Im sure I just paid twice what you did for the same exact part. Oh well, Daves a good dude and just a short drive to pick up is nice. Cash discount... he likes that. Going to drop at Superfinishers tomorrow and let Mike verify its nice and true then get the F/W, disk and PP bolted back up. Then focus on fixing the tranny. Then full circle back to the top of this thread and pour the juice back in... Think you will be running by the February NASA meet? That would be great, but you probably won't want to Flog the crap out of your motor like I was doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZGhost623 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Ya, same part number and everything from that photo. Exactly how it came out of the box. Looking back on my records I paid $275 for the flywheel and $300 for the stage 2 clutch kit. I was on a major budget on the amount of things I needed to get so I had to stretch everywhere I could. I looked at AZC but they were way out of my price range unfortunately. I am pretty sure if I can get this gas tank problem settled, Ill be on my way for sure. Its the only thing stopping me now. My goal is to be at the next event with this car. Yes, I need atleast a 500 mile break in. Maybe a cruise is in order up to Globe or Flag and back. I am very curious how your tooth mod is going to turn out. Not sure I understand everything being said/done, but I find it interesting none the less. More to learn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 I'm not gonna do any Synchro tooth mods. I'm just going to put in good quality OEM Nissan parts and measure properly this time. See how it goes from there. I will find another box down the road to experiment with. Unfortunatly the SX and later trannies don't have gear ratios that benefit me, so I am stuck with this box for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 duragg-you are such a kick-ass guy that I'm wondering how long it will be before you put a V8 in that thing? You need to think about it-you deserve more.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 (edited) My heart was set on an LS conversion until I realized that the HP battle is not a battle that can ever be won. Everyone does LS swaps and Big HP Turbo Cars, Cadillac station wagons running 12sec 1/4s right out of the box. But what people really like and appreciate is a unique sound and apperance. Old school is cool. Half the kids I meet have NEVER heard of Datsun. Did you know that? Never heard the word "Datsun". They ask where I got the 6 cylinder from... It has actually happend. Sucks getting old!! Us kidz grew up with a Z. It is a known engineering fact that an inline 6 or V12 is the best sounding motor built (Come to Reno for the air races...) So why not be old-school cool and run pumped up hard breathing NA Z motors rattling and knocking and scrapping down the straights. My next motor would be a Stroker L series at 12:1 with a gnarly cam and 8000rpm hp peak through straight pipes. Perhaps this summer. Edited January 29, 2013 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Cool. They sure do sound good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 (edited) Could use a second set of eyes here. RMS and freeze plug dry. Plate on Flywheel on with dowels located and pressed. Torqued to 107ft lbs per 1983 FSM with a little bit of Med Loctite. I think I got it all? Edited January 30, 2013 by duragg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 I am real glad I tore down this tranny to do Fault Analysis on this one as the problems are pretty clear. I made a video to show the tranny, synchros and gears in action and whata FPITA... between the text messages, and phone calls and Gindr messages and then the air compressor, well I apologize for my unprofessional language. There is some damage to the dog teeth which I need to decide to file back sharp, or spend another $250 on new parts to fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Nice work. LOL'd at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 I won't know till the new parts are here, as to how the new brass rings sit in the cones if the gear itself is still serviceable. If the new riings bottom out in the cones then the gear itself is toast. But the whole point of Brass on Steel is the brass wears, the steel don't. Will have to see. And the teeth on the engagement side of the 2nd gear aren't perfect. Its a $134 gear (assuming not NLA) so I hope it can be salvaged. At a minimum I will dress all the teeth if the brass ring sit properly. Money is always an object, so I would replace everything if I could. Will know more next week when the new parts come in and a proper determination can be made. Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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