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1983 280zx turbo

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Then they're not a great tuner. That said, a lot of the best tuners have the few systems they like and that's what they tune, and don't waste customers time learning something new on their car unless it's a special circumstance.


But finding a tuner that knows electromotive stuff shouldn't be too hard, they've been around FOREVER.

Thats what i was thinking but the guy i bought it from said that he took it to a few different places and they just look at him like he is speaking french or something. THe car runs super rich it still runs great just rich as heck. My stage 2 clutch that i ordered yesterday is sitting at my house today (SWEET!!!) TO bad im at school and not working on the car. 

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Then the guy you bought it from is going to the wrong type of shops, and is probably going from honda tuner to honda tuner. Seems like 90% of shops that anyone driving a 1990+ modified vehicle recommends shops that speak the JDM language and have no real knowledge of enging physics/dynamics. These shops are EVERYWHERE. If you want a REAL tuner, go to the local drag races, find someone driving a sub 11 sec EFI car and strike up a conversation and find out what tuner they used, or if they tuned it themselves.


Oh, and btw, DIYautotune is in your neck of the woods, though I'm not sure they'll tune non-megasquirt cars, but they're certainly people that know their stuff.

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I bought another 280zx turbo it is a 1981 model with an auto trans. It only has 109k original miles. It runs pretty bad I reckon cause the turbo is shot. It is in aight condition. I plan on using the power plant and a 5 speed and rear subframe in my 260z project.







Here is a video of it running. (Hopefully it'll work)



Edited by k204drek

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You can remove the turbo from the system entirely, and the engine should still run FINE! It just won't make as much power. If it's hesitating, stumbling, refusing to rev snappy, etc sort that issue FIRST before throwing parts like a turbo at it.


Also, beware, the 81 CAS is not a reliable part and has blown many-a-engine. They're fine when they work, but they can decide to get really out of spec. Just because you get it to time right at idle doesn't mean it's going to read correctly at 3,500 rpm or above. If you're going to push that motor you need to have something to verify spark at higher RPMs to confirm the sensor is in "okay" shape.

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