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Turbo install Questions


tooquick260

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Well gathered most the parts so far.... here is the lay out!

 

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Ok the help i need is the wiring? What goes where? I can figure out the 6 injecter plugs, computer connection, the AFM, Distributor,  but what do these do and where do they plug into...

 

 

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And what are these?

 

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And what are these??

 

 

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I think some sould be water temp, another oil pressure and is another one fuel pressure?

Edited by tooquick260
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First pic are some plugs you prob won't use (not necessary to run anyways) they're for the vacuum control modulator.

Second pic has two grounds I see (the ones with rings) one is for your STOCK (don't know abot hooking up the 240sx unit) TPS (has 3 slots, one will be empty) the other connector is for the some switch that controls the bypass air (not necessary since you're using the 60mm throttle)

Last pic is important. The green and brown wires need 12v these are connected to fusible links in stock configuration, the turbo swap guide says to hook them up to the starter + lug. The two prong connector is for your CHTS...important for running as this lets the ECU know how warm te engine is for fuel enrichment purposes. If you're swapping this stuff into a S30 I don't believe the oil pressure sender is compatible. For water temp you'll use your stock S30 wire connected to the sender on your thermostat housing.

All that being said.........go to the turbo stickies and read the turbo swap guide, it answers all your questions and if all your components are in working order and you follow the guide to the letter, you'll fire up right away. If its hit first turbo swap, it'll be tricky especially since you're throwing a 60mm TB into the mix on a non-running swap.

Good luck. Read the turbo swap guide right away.

 

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Well D-Day is here. I am starting tear down this evening when I get home from work.....(Pawn shop and its just like what you see on TV!)

 

P90 head returning from machine shop. Shaved .080, Shims from Derek, valves and spring spacers from Motorsport auto. Cam reground from Scheiders.

 

I will have lots of questions so any help along the way will be helpful. 

 

Reason for starting now is the clutch slave cylinder is leaking and has lost pressure. I will be removing the tranny to put a new clutch in to handle the additional power being applied ( it slips now ) , which could be the lack of a working hydraulic clutch. I am also going to tackle putting in the Z32 brake master cylinder. Z32 rear brake adaptation will have to be another time when I put the rear diff in. 

 

While I have the motor down I plan on freshening up the engine compartment. Car was originally green and had a repaint 31 years ago to red. I eventually want to paint the car black so I am going to paint the engine compartment black. 

 

P.S. I have located an S15 6 speed tranny for a real good price. I may jump on this and work out the adaptation to the S30 chassis and L series block. I know tall order but I want a 6 speed. Issues I know so far are its longer! No speed sensor. Clutch type may be an issue.

 

Pictures to follow, will see how it goes. Tear down is always easier.

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I can fit the 6-speed to the L block. It's not just a simple front case swap...I need the 6 speed transmission AND an L-series FS5W71B front case only, and the L-series front case won't be coming home. (at least the 6 speed front case, input shaft, and front bearing retainer. The rest of the transmission isn't required to get the front case fitting correctly, but those three parts are.)

 

The 6-speed case is NOT a simple front case swap, and requires some pretty heavy fabrication work.

 

The clutch is the same. No problem there. Clutch slave cylinder is the same, no problem there.

 

Early S15 6-speeds can use the Z's sending unit, as long as you remove the speedometer drive gear and have it bored for the larger output shaft. The early boxes have a cover bolted over the speedo sending unit hole, and the output shaft is machined to accept the speedo drive gear, but no gear is installed.

 

You will need the matching S15 driveshaft yoke, as the S15 6 speed output shaft is larger. 1 1/8" versus 1"

 

The transmission ends up longer than the B box, but shorter than the C box, when installed behind the L28.

 

The 6-speed transmission is not fantastically strong...many of the SR guys swap back to the FS5W71C due to power issues. There is a problem with the shift forks not staying put and a circlip or two that like to jump out and cause havoc. This stuff starts happening about 350HP, you can buy the Nismo 6 speed and it won't happen til about 450HP.

 

I've seen the 5-gear box working behind SR's and KA's up to 400HP if you're gentle with the clutch, and up to 350HP if you're a total jerk to the gearbox.

 

The 6-gear box isn't any weaker, but it's fantastically expensive to rebuild when it explodes at the same power level the 5-gear box does. If you're not planning on more than 300HP, then the 6-gear box can be a fun option. I know when I find a good deal on the box, I'll make another bellhousing and get it installed into my own Z!

Edited by Xnke
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Thanks Xnke!

 

I will pm you when I have that in my hand, so we can talk more shop. 

 

Had the 6 speed tranny in my stolen s14. Put 305 hp down on the chassis dyno with that setup. Running stock S15 turbo motor with cam upgrade Nistune, engine management, Tomei cams and 17 pounds of boost. Did not do drag race starts, and used so so sticky tires. Did not bang gears and loved the gear set backed with a J30 rear dif 3.90 r&p.

 

I had a 2 piece drive shaft behind my 6 speed. Will have to plan out the drive axle when I go that way. Want to get the motor turbo install set before I tackle that.  

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Got the party started today. Step one dis-assembly! Put the car on stands. Going to pull the tranny this weekend. Intake/exhaust manifolds removed. Cylinder head removed. A/C compressor and lines removed.

 

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New that I had some cylinder head issues with one missing stud no bolt. The same cylinder had the other nut loose. Also the head gasket shows issues.

 

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Broke one head stud.... grrrrrrrr. Recruited my dad for the know how. He drilled the stud out. Did it with 4 different bits smaller to bigger. Then he was able to use a pair of needle nose vise grips to grab the thread and unscrew the threads of the bolts.

 

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Things left to do. Remove the front motor cover. Have to put the turbo pump drive gear in to match the distributor drive gear. Possibly remove the block to clean thoroughly. I know there will be haters about not going the extra mile to disassemble motor completely etc. But going real low budget to get back on the road. Also, remove the radiator, A/C dryer. Cut the drivers side access for the intake piping, plan on running the cold air intake in front of the intercooler behind the lower front grill. 

 

Fed ex and UPS were busy today. Got my clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, steel braided line, blow off valve flange from Blitz (got a free Blitz 38mm blow off but was cut off the piping with nothing to weld back on with) and clutch and pressure plate.

 

Things still coming valves, spring spacers, cam from schneiders (sent there to be reground) and lash caps. Also going to clean the engine compartment, take everything off the wheel wells and paint the engine compartment black.

 

Will post more pics as I continue. Have to work tomorrow. Maybe do some work on Sunday.

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Finished taking the outer motor parts off today. Alternator, oil pump, radiator and front engine cover. They were nasty will be nice to have them clean. I unbolted everything from the inner wheel wells to clean and get ready for paint. I am going to paint glossy black.

 

Here are before and after. Only one spray down with purple power and a little hand power. Will hit it again tomorrow, then some break clean and a final rinse with a spray of water. Then I will scuff the areas spray with primer. Once dry wipe down with some denatured alcohol. 

 

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Purple power is some pretty serious stuff! Just really make sure you are wearing some sort of mask, and or work in a WELL ventillated area. Alkaline solution is extermemly bad for the lungs. But I'm probably not telling you anything new, as I'm SURE you have gotten a wiff if you've used it before.

 

Stuff burns your nose hairs. haha

 

Looking cleeean though!

Edited by OldAndyAndTheSea
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Well the head is in the machine shop, waiting on valves and spring shims.Did a .080 fly cut, valve job and guides.

 

Cam sent to Schneiders completed and in transit back to me......waiting.

 

I opened up the hole in the radiator support on the drivers side to make room for the intercooler piping and intake piping to have the cold air intake in front of the intercooler.

 

Have half the engine compartment degreased, cleaned scuffed and primed, working on the other half. I took everything off the inner fender wells, fire walls and will be painting it black.

 

Decided to go forward with the tranny swap so have 6 speed coming that will be mated with an S30 bell housing. So have pulled the Z32 rear diff out of my brothers 300zx  (1993, is a 4.08 LSD, he is donating any parts I want) Also have the rear half shaft cv axles that once I mount the rear diff will get new axles made by mosler. Will be making custom stub axles out of the S30 to fit the z32 cv joints.

 

I also took the brake booster out of my brothers Z and will be adapting that to the fire wall of the S30 to take advantage of the Z32 brake master cylinder. 

 

The quick 2 week turbo swap has turned into probably a 3 month custom resto mod. My dad warned me.

 

I have pictures of the progress but on a 3 week run of over nights 9pm to 6 am. Really messing with me, but good money. Will post when have time and energy.

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OK update......

 

Got the 6 speed. Pulled the tranny out of the 260z, removed the tail housing and getting the bell housing off.

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Will be sending the 6 speed and the S30 bellhousing out to a hybridz member to mate the 2 bellhousings so it will bolt to an L series block.

 

 

 

Got the Z32 dif out of the 300zx along with the rear calipers. My plans are to also remove the 300zx break booster mount in the s30 with the 300zx BMC. As far as the rear brakes and dif install I ordered the Techno tuning rear backing plates, shortened half shafts to put the Z's cv's onto, mustache bar and strut housings prepped for coilovers. 

 

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While I had some down time I removed most of the stuff off the firewall and painted it. This is with one coat. I am going for 1 more coat and 2 coats of clear to give is some protection.

 

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I am still waiting on the cam to return back from Schnieders. Was suppose to be 8 days ago. Will follow up on this tomorrow. I just got the valves, spring spacers and the rest of the valve train parts. I have a new job that entails working over nights. Still doing 1 to 2 days of work at the pawn shop though to help out.

 

Things left to get.... MONEY!$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$  Drive axle, some wiring, pluming (fuel lines all new), throttle cable and piping for the intake. I am routing the intake out in front of the intercooler and need additional piping for that. 

 

I got a surge tank to handle my fuel delivery issues as well.

 

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Also, got my new clutch setup looks good. Well this $800 to $1500 turbo upgrade has turned into a massive resto, custom build. Trying to get this done by May 1st! I am cutting it close. Well the next 2 weeks will be prep work for the install. I have to remove the rest of the rear suspension from the 300zx to go into the s30. Remove the booster as well. I am trying to wait till the last minute on the 300zx because it will not be a roller once I remove the rear hubs, stub axles etc. My dad says I have to strip the rest of the car of useful parts and sellable parts and get rid of the shell once that happens. 

 

Stay tuned!

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Ok so I am still working on getting the Z32 brake booster fitted. So here are some of the pictures of the process. First are the side by side of the 2 boosters.

 

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Just resprayed and a couple quotes of clear coats.

 

Now onto the mounting of the booster. The Z32 bolt pattern is smaller than and narrower than the S30 booster bolt pattern. So I took the gasket that was on the Z32's booster and used it as a template. Stuck it to the firewall with some silicone centering the bolt pattern between the original stud holes. I spray painted the gasket on the firewall to get the location of the Z32 stud holes. Then used an automatic center punch to start the drill holes. This is a tight fit between the clutch master cylinder and the accelerator pivot arm.

 

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I will post the pictures of the booster mounted later. Had to stop for dinner and a night out.

 

I removed the old clutch and flywheel. Took the old main seal out and installed another one. Re-installed the flywheel and bolted the new clutch on. Here is the old next to the new.

 

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Well thats all for today. Tomorrow I will bolt the new clutch master cylinder and the Z32 Brake booster on. 

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