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tamo3

10 years after hybernation - '75 280z

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ZXT_bean,

Sorry I didn't have time to find hub caps take photo. I will try to find them soon.

 

After removing paint and bondo of rear fender, I decided to replace panel.

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Went to junk yard to hunt donor car.

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But I need to drop down gas tank in order to remove bumper bracket and cut inner panel....

Also, running out of battery of the saw and blade.

 

Day 2 at junk yard.

 

Use engine lift to bring up rear end of the body.

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Finally, got the rear panel!!!

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Back home and start clean up the panel I got.

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I try to be extra careful not to cut too much. Spot welding section is hard to trim down.

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Oh, I used up a lot of grinder...

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Remove old paint and did rust treatment and primed it.

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Next thing is cut the body.

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Also cut the bumper bracket hole to square...post-25175-0-93620500-1381874292_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

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Joined Techshop to learn how to weld and power coat. Thanks grretc for letting me know about this school!

Once become member of the Techshop and took course, I can use equipment for free! (off course, you need to pay monthly membership fee)

 

Practice welding with the rear panel that came out from my 280z.

Since it has too much dent, it's really hard to weld!

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I also learn that using copper panel as the heat shield make it easy to weld body panel. Run to OSH to get the small copper plate.

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I was planning to tow my Z to the Techshop to weld body panel, but U-Haul did not have the tow cart even though I made reservation.

I decided to rent MIG to weld at home.

 

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Also weld the bumper holes.

At first, cut the cart board to measure the size of the holes.

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and cut the plate to the size. Since I only have scissor to cut the plate, my hand get so tired....

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I stripped down rear hatch and discover cancer rust.

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I decided not to use this hatch and use this panel as the repair panel for the rear end.

Chopped off!

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Looks like Z's body panel is used 20G, but at HomeDepot, OSH, they only have 18G or 22G. So, it's good to have consistence thickness of the panel :-)

 

Off course, I got replacement hatch at junkyard.

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Found TA...

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My friend built RA22 with F20C before. So it's so sad to see this rare celica...

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Chiming in as well.  I have recently acquired a '78 2+2 which I'll be going through similar to your thread.  Also picked up a triple set of Weber 40 DCOE's!  Thanks for the tutorial and generous pics and vids, they will come in handy when I begin the inspection.

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After finish paining primer, I noticed there are several bump I need to fix.

 

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Sanding, bondo, sanding, bondo, and sanding with 150G, 220G.

Then re=primed.

 

After 3rd primed, I started 400G sanding to smoothing surface for prep for paint color.

 

Bought HFT canopy to paint the car.

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Put the car and wrap with clear plastic which is I bought at HomeDepot.

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I measure vent line hose size.

 

There are a lot of good information for vent hoses alternative information for 240z, but not much for 280z.

Mine is '75 280z, though, '77-'78 280z might be different.

 

For 240z, reference links.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/25857-rating-factory-240z-fuel-vent-hoses.html

http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/tankvents/tankvents.html

 

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/FuelTank/ToJul76/tabid/1621/Default.aspx

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Parts plan to buy from http://www.mcmaster.com

 

1 of Part Number 7270K3:                        

Heavy Duty Moisture-Seal Tubing, Heat-Shrink, 1.1" ID Before, 9" Long, Black
   This is what you will use instead of the grommets – heavy duty adhesive shrink tubing!

 

1 ft of Part Number 5645K25:                           
Low-Pressure SAE Hydraulic Hose, SAE30R3, 3/8" ID, 19/32" OD, 225 PSI, Black

 

6 ft of Part Number 5645K19:                         
Low-Pressure SAE Hydraulic Hose, SAE30R2, 5/8" ID, 7/8" OD, 350 PSI, Black

 

10 ft of Part Number 5645K21:

Low-Pressure SAE Hydraulic Hose, SAE30R3, 3/16" ID, 3/8" OD, 500 PSI, Black

 

1 ft of Part Number 5645K23:                         
Low-Pressure SAE Hydraulic Hose, SAE30R3, 5/16" ID, 1/2" OD, 300 PSI, Black

Edited by tamo3

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Restored 240z taillights surrounding panel which I got from Leon.

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Cleaned up with TPS and fix the dent and sand the rust.

I sandblast center piece since it has rust unreachable area.

 

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Masking chrome strip.

 

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Paint with

Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating – HWP102 $6.99

 

Lots people recommend this.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/34605-rear-tail-light-panel-refreshing.html#post293299

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Then matte finish with

Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X 12-oz. Flat Matte Clear

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Also got new M4 screw for light panel.

 

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Done!

Edited by tamo3

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Thanks Leon!

 

Working on rear hatch window installation before it start heavy rain.

 

Study references:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvcJ_lU_VpQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGMd0CrEQig

Great write up.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/37121-i-just-cant-get-windshield-please-advice.html

 

Clean up window with razor blade and Windex.

Pre-heat weather strap under the sun a bit and installed.

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Put strings around.

 

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Placed window shield on the hatch.

 

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Gap both bottom of the corner.... This is the MSA quality product....

 

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Pull the string.

 

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I need to use tool at the last part to pull the rubber.

 

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Huge gap on one side, but not the other...

 

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It's practice.. It's practice..It's practice.. I will re-do once rain season is over..

I learned I should've install trims onto rubber before install window onto the hatch.

 

 

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Done.

 

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Pulling the string need quit power and got damage on my finger. It takes time to heal up....

 

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Hibernate during rain season...

Edited by tamo3

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Weather is getting better and my health condition is also getting better.

 

I decided re-do rear window installation.

 

This time, I install trim onto the rubber before install the window onto the frame.

Spray Windex onto the rubber and install trims.

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Attached tape to hold rubber onto the glass.

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Spray soapy water or Windex onto the strings.

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This time I started install strings in the middle of the top part of the rear window.

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Then lightly press windows down and pull strings both left side and right side almost same length.

 

 

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Carefully pull the string at the bottom corner.

 

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No gap at all between weatherstrip and frame! Success!

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I worked on door window assembly.

 

I installed window frame at first, but it was wrong order to put back the parts.

I have several try & error to assemble door windows.

 

First of all, wash 30 years old dirty windows.

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Here is the number order to put back the door window mechanism.

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(1) Install door handle and lock.

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(2) Clean up & lubricate and install door lock mechanism.

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Attaching door lock tumbler.

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Lubricate rails.

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(3) Install bottom rail.

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(4) Install front rail & (5) main window mechanism.

Connect (3) bottom rail, (4) front rail with (5) the main window mechanism.

 

(6) Install window. When installing window, it easier to remove nuts of (4) front rail to be able to move window back and force to put roller of the main window mechanism on to the rails on window.

 

Put roller.

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Then install window frame.

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Don't forget pivot point of door handle from inside.

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Put back rest of the door mechanism. 

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Done!

 

 

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