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10 years after hybernation - '75 280z

280z hybernation restore

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#21 Leon

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Posted 23 April 2013 - 01:34 PM

Got it. So if you're using the spares then why remove and disassemble the current suspension? Why not leave it be and then swap everything over once you finish the coilovers? I think if you take your time and practice patience, you won't mess up. ;)



#22 tamo3

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 09:43 AM

Thanks Leon,

I might leave current suspension as is right now. Over the weekend, I was working on fixing brake and Clutch Master/Slave.

 

I kept try to bleed brake line just pumping brake pedal over and over. It was good exercise. I don't know how many time I step on the gas pedal. More than a couple of thousands times?

 

Then I realize there is a tool for helping bleeding line.

I bought HFT Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder for $25. I can connect to air compressor to bleed line so easily!

Attached File  Brake_HFT.jpg   91.98KB   11 downloadsAttached File  Brake_HFT2.jpg   59.96KB   21 downloads

 

 

Finally, I could've removed all the pistons from Toyota 4x4 caliper!

Attached File  Brake_piston_out.jpg   67.81KB   31 downloads

 

However, I couldn't get rid of air bubble and realize my 40 years brake rubber hose has crack...

Attached File  Brake_40years_old_crak.jpg   84.12KB   31 downloads

 

I need to change this too..

Attached File  Brake_ss.jpg   57.39KB   21 downloads

 

 



#23 spitz17

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 09:51 AM

Great progress tamo!

 

I believe we met briefly at the Shokuji J-tin gathering last week (I had the blue Fairlady Z).

 

Looking forward to seeing the progression of your car.


Glenn - autootaku.weebly.com
1972 Fairlady 240Z-L - Petrolicious Feature

1970 240Z Race car - SCCA C Production, Trans-Am

1973 260Z Race car - IMSA GTU, SCCA Trans-Am


#24 tamo3

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 09:53 AM

It's getting worse... :malebitch

 

After replacing clutch Master and slave and rubber hose and bleed it, I realize there is no traction from clutch withdraw lever.

 

What is the easiest way to trouble shoot this?

Do I need to remove engine?



#25 tamo3

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 09:59 AM

Hi spitz17,

 

Oh! You are the one! Your blue Z is so shinny nice!

A lots of try and error of my restoration since this is the 1st time(actually 2nd time if I include 240z?).

I don't have any experience of mechanical engineering, I learned everything here and classic Z and some Japanese magazine.

I try to update my progress, hope my try and error will help someone who is looking for solution for similar issue.

 

Great progress tamo!

 

I believe we met briefly at the Shokuji J-tin gathering last week (I had the blue Fairlady Z).

 

Looking forward to seeing the progression of your car.



#26 spitz17

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 02:57 PM

Hi tamo --

 

I'm looking at your video and am not 100% sure what is wrong. Your clutch does seem to retract, are you not getting enough travel in your clutch pedal?

 

Did you purchase the proper clutch slave + clutch master cylinder for a 75 280Z? I believe they do differ depending on whether you have a 5 speed or 4 speed, as there are different throw out bearing lengths (inside transmission bell housing). 

 

Also, when you installed your Clutch Master Cylinder, did you match the length of the rod with your old clutch master cylinder? This will help ensure the adjustment of when the push rod touches the piston is correct. From what I understand from my experiences, when you put your hand on the clutch pedal and push forward lightly... there should be about 1/16 of an inch travel before you feel the push rod touch the piston in the Clutch Master Cylinder.


Glenn - autootaku.weebly.com
1972 Fairlady 240Z-L - Petrolicious Feature

1970 240Z Race car - SCCA C Production, Trans-Am

1973 260Z Race car - IMSA GTU, SCCA Trans-Am


#27 Leon

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 03:53 PM

It's getting worse... :malebitch

 

After replacing clutch Master and slave and rubber hose and bleed it, I realize there is no traction from clutch withdraw lever.

 

What is the easiest way to trouble shoot this?

Do I need to remove engine?

 

It seems like either the clutch master isn't relieving pressure (not retracting completely) or there is a mechanical issue with the clutch assembly (especially in the release bearing collar and pressure plate combo). For the first issue, make sure that pedal position is adjusted correctly. That procedure is in the FSM. The second issue (mechanical problem) will require taking the transmission out, so I'd check the hydraulics thoroughly before jumping to conclusions.


Edited by Leon, 29 April 2013 - 03:53 PM.


#28 tamo3

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 08:11 PM

Hi spitz17, Leon,

 

Thank you for your advice.

 

I bought Clutch master and slave for '72 240z. But when I check parts number @ RockAuto, same parts are used for '78 280z. therefore, I assume it doesn't matter.

 

I didn't step on clutch pedal when I took video. The clutch slave cylinder is fully extended as default state. There is not push back force from withdraw lever. Therefore When I step on the clutch pedal, I don't feel any traction at all since Clutch slave cylinder is fully extended.

That's why I assume it's mechanical problem on crutch itself, not hydraulics issue.

 

 

I think accurate behavior when stepping on clutch pedal is like this.

 

 

 



#29 tamo3

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 06:13 AM

I removed Clutch slave cylinder and check clutch withdraw level last night.

 

 

There is no push back at all. I should've realize when I replace slave cylinder at first place.

I guess it's mechanical problem, right?



#30 spitz17

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 07:51 AM

http://www.thezstore...TZS/CTGY/SCCB10

 

On MSA's site, it sells two versions for 70-72 and 73-83. However, I believe the 70-72 has the Series 1 return spring, which you do not have. So I think that the one you have is correct.

 

After re-reviewing your videos, I do think it is a problem with the clutch collar or bearing. You may just have to drop your transmission to get this done. The clutch collar is spring loaded, which engages to clutch... It looks like yours is overly flimsy!


Glenn - autootaku.weebly.com
1972 Fairlady 240Z-L - Petrolicious Feature

1970 240Z Race car - SCCA C Production, Trans-Am

1973 260Z Race car - IMSA GTU, SCCA Trans-Am


#31 tamo3

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:05 AM

Thanks spitz17 for your diagnostic.

 

Do you think I can jack up the car and drop transmission with good enough clearance on my drive way?



#32 Leon

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:58 AM

Too short of a throwout bearing collar for the pressure plate would be my guess.

 

In order to get the car up high enough to get the transmission out, I think it needs to be at least 18" off the ground (I think duragg posted the numbers from the many times he's had to do this). If your driveway is level, you're OK. Just make sure your jackstands are tall enough.

 

Might as well put in a new clutch and consider a lightweight flywheel.


Edited by Leon, 30 April 2013 - 09:59 AM.


#33 spitz17

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 11:47 AM

Having done the transmission on my Z before, I'd agree with Leon. The car has to be at least 18" high, and also keep in mind that using a regular jack may need more clearance to get leverage on jack's bar. Tamo3, I see that you are in the San Jose Area. You are more than welcome to borrow my transmission jack I used for my transmission drop. I am in Los Altos, and I may even be able to help you, if you're open to it.

 

I also agree with Leon that you should probably do a flywheel and clutch job since you are in there, but I'd also add to do the Rear Main Seal of your engine too. These are prone to leak and destroy clutches... Just my 2 cents. :)


Edited by spitz17, 30 April 2013 - 11:53 AM.

Glenn - autootaku.weebly.com
1972 Fairlady 240Z-L - Petrolicious Feature

1970 240Z Race car - SCCA C Production, Trans-Am

1973 260Z Race car - IMSA GTU, SCCA Trans-Am


#34 tamo3

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 04:07 PM

Thanks for your advice!

 

Spitz17 for your offer! I really appreciate that! I will let you know once ready to drop tranny.

 

Based on Leon and Spitz17's recommendation I would like to change clutch too. I have brand new OEM 240z clutch bought @ ebay long time ago. Do you think I can use it for 280z or do you have any recommendation?

Some people said Exedy is good, other people said ACT is good one.

For mainly street use, I don't know what is the better option.

 

I think this is the great opportunity to swap transmission from 4 speed to 5 speed too.

 

I was working on rebuilding 280zx tranny but encounter issue for removing nut from mainshaft and stopped....

Attached File  Tranny_rebuild1.jpg   43.95KB   17 downloads

 

I grinded tools to try to bend the nuts, but I think should grind the nut itself.

I should re-prioritize and finish rebuilding tranny first at this time to move forward my project.

 

 



#35 tamo3

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:33 PM

Victory!

 

After grinding nuts, finally I could've remove the nuts from mainshaft!

Attached File  tranny_nuts_mainshaft_1.jpg   41KB   20 downloadsAttached File  tranny_nuts_mainshaft_2.jpg   41.63KB   26 downloads

 

Next target is this snap ring.

Attached File  tranny_nuts_mainshaft_3.jpg   59.58KB   22 downloads

 

This snap ring is so strong, I broke many cheap HFT snap ring pliers.

I have to find strong one somewhere...



#36 spitz17

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 10:00 AM

A 5-speed conversion would be great! I use Exedy, and have had no experience with ACT, and it has been reliable thus far. I also run a Fidanza flywheel with great results.


Glenn - autootaku.weebly.com
1972 Fairlady 240Z-L - Petrolicious Feature

1970 240Z Race car - SCCA C Production, Trans-Am

1973 260Z Race car - IMSA GTU, SCCA Trans-Am


#37 Leon

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 10:30 AM

The 240Z clutch you bought on ebay will work (as long as it matches your flywheel, 225mm or 240mm). Just make sure to have the correct release bearing collar on there.



#38 tamo3

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:30 PM

Thanks for your feedback.

 

I will measure flywheel size and clutch size.

Also bearing collar size.

http://www.zparts.co...ear_specs1.html

4tobear_specs1a.jpg

 

If size did not match, I'm plannig to get Exedy + Fidanza flywheel.

 

 

Spitz17,

Did you get yours from eBay?

http://www.ebay.com/...315b06d&vxp=mtr



#39 Leon

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 07:07 PM

FYI: http://www.classiczc...html#post415974



#40 tamo3

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 11:23 PM

Thanks Leon, I will read over.

 

Tonight progress... not so progress made.

Got Stronger Clip Plier at Autozone.

 

It has Internal / External combo with exchangeable tops. 2mm tops is looks promising durability :icon54:

Attached File  tranny_plier_0.jpg   29.9KB   12 downloads

Attached File  Tranny_plier.jpg   58.31KB   14 downloads

 

However, it kept slipping with tranny oil and cannot grab the clip...

 

 

For brake rotor with spacer, I bought M10x1.25 40mm bolts at OSH.

Attached File  Brake_Caliper_Toyota4x4_5.jpg   88KB   20 downloads

Attached File  Brake_Caliper_Toyota4x4_mount_3.jpg   58.77KB   23 downloads

 

This bolt is the best size to fit slotted rotor with 9mm spacer to hub.







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