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Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning


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The washers are used to position the wheel forward or back in the wheel well. They go between the spindle and the "jam nut assembly" for lack of the proper term.. (the spindle pins slides through them) check out ZT-R's build thread he has pics of his installed

Edited by CrayZ
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Ok onto my not running issue. i am getting a different AFM to see if the problem persists. Other issues of way too much fuel. i think I need to pull the injectors and replace the o-rings. Just in my attempting to start the car maybe 15 times and a total run time of about 45 seconds I have fouled 2 sets of plugs.

 

With to much fuel would that make the vehicle not run or start and not run almost like it is flooded? When I changed the plugs the first attempt and car started and ran the best it has ever run since trying to start.

 

While I am waiting for the AFM, I am pulling the oil pan to redo the turbo drain pipe(was leaking anyways at the front 2 bolts under the oil pump) Have a -6 and going to go with a  -10 (3/4 ") inner diameter. Should be overkill but dont want to do it again. 

 

Any other ideas on running issues?

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Thought I was so close..... Always one more thing and something you have to redo.. Here is the final update for the week.

 

Still dont have the car running, have bought another AFM.

 

 

Took injectors out and checked all the "O" rings. They are all good. Checked the new plugs and they look clean. Have the fuel pressure dropped as best as I can tell to mid 30lbs.

Edited by tooquick260
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Are those two piece adapters? How do those work?

 

Also can't tell, but did you use rtv on your oil pan? It helps a ton when you tighten it down.

 

Did you already weld the -10 fitting on? You're probably going to need a 45* off it and then hope you don't get any binding. Ideally you should have run the -10 in the same spot (or close) as the -6 and run a 45* right off it straight up to the turbo drain. 

 

Double check the fuel pressure regulator. You could have a leaking diaphragm which what happened to me. Ran rich as hell and hardly idled for a few seconds. Diaphragm was ripped in my FPR and it was dumping fuel through the vacuum line to the manifold.

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Are those two piece adapters? How do those work?

 

Yes they are 2 peace. They use one of the 4 lug studs as an adapter that a stud screws onto and has a stud made into it. Works well. I am going to go to 5 lug front adapters eventually

 

Also can't tell, but did you use rtv on your oil pan? It helps a ton when you tighten it down.

 

No rtv, my dad has always used clear 100% silicone (fish tank stuff) He says that the thermo range is like from -80 to 550 F. He uses it on all his VW air cooled stuff. Always jokes the they VW bugs always mark there spot with a leak. He seals the engine case halves together valve gaskets, tranny cases. Everthing except exhaust stuff. Looks cleaner and is easier to clean up. I just overtightened the gasket, it only leaked at the front where the 3 stud holes ripped the gasket apart. The rear was as bad but did not leak there.

 

Did you already weld the -10 fitting on? You're probably going to need a 45* off it and then hope you don't get any binding. Ideally you should have run the -10 in the same spot (or close) as the -6 and run a 45* right off it straight up to the turbo drain. 

 

Yeah pilfering through my dads assortment of fittings, I have 2 90's, 2 45's. 

 

Double check the fuel pressure regulator. You could have a leaking diaphragm which what happened to me. Ran rich as hell and hardly idled for a few seconds. Diaphragm was ripped in my FPR and it was dumping fuel through the vacuum line to the manifold.

 

I will check, I dont see any fuel in the vacuum line, but never know.

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Yeah I have dealt with Martin that works with Z Fever, he did the final tune on my 240sx that was stolen. He is in Tampa. Going to Motorworks in Sanford. He was the lead Tech at Z-Tech in Longwood. They did some work for my brother on his Z32. He left there about 2 years ago to open his own shop. Says he has done many of these swaps and had as much as 500hp in a L28. 

 

I have to give him a shot. Don't know what else is wrong. I will post his findings as soon as I know. 

 

I miss driving my car. My brother has a Kia Rio that is a stick shift , not the same as our Z's!

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So since I had a 6 speed in the stolen car I decided to go with the same tranny. S15 6speed. I researched and found a few people with attempted installs of this tranny but no one had a step by step build. I posted I wanted to do this and a fellow member Xnke (Jacob) said he could help. He said to send the 6 speed with an S30 bellhousing. So I purchases a 6 Speed from JDM Tech of Orlando put them on a crate and sent to Xnke.

 

 

 

 

He then cut the S30 bellhousing and mated it to the S15 6 Speed. Jacob informed me that this is actually a Mazda MX-5 6 speed. he can source and work on these tranny's! Awesome. Here are pics of taking the S30 tranny out and apart. Then with the 6 speed back ready to be installed.

 

 

20130324_170715_zps825f6dd9.jpg20130324_164222_zps02c2a400.jpg

20130415_190735_zpsc5229f83.jpg20130415_190741_zpsd0d6a4cc.jpg20130415_190756_zps976b279b.jpg

 

 

Neat! Ive always thought about the s15 tranny swap and only heard iffy responses describing the difficulty. Once you have the car driving, id love to know how your setup works out.

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Well I got the second AFM. No cover very sketchy looking. Installed and it starts better but runs like crap. Have run it 6 times for about 10 minutes total. I have another AFM coming tomorrow.

 

I am going to start it and let run to see if running it gets better. Going to look at each connector to make sure they are clean , look for vacuum leaks. I am looking at a standalone system but just don't have the reserves to outlay that right now. Will take me another 4 weeks to get back on my feet and have the cash to put away for the standalone. This is what I was thinking for a standalone. DIY/Megasquirt.

 

 

 

 

MS3X357-C_BL Assembled Megasquirt-III V3.57 with MS3X
MOD_2357IGN1: Single Ignition Output through BIP373 coil driver
MOD_x357-12vIn: 12v Pullup on the Ignition Input
TW_L28ET  54mm optical disc for L28-T
JimStim-C       Assembled JimStim diagnostic board
StimPower      Power supply for JimStim
MSHarness8  8' main board wiring harness
MS3X-Hrn8     8' MS3X wiring harness
IATwPiggy        Intake Air Temperature Sensor
38NPT-Bung_A  Aluminum bung for IAT sensor (Also available in stainless steel)
MS3TuneCable  USB communications cable for MS3
 
My dad has a LM-1 that I can use for the wideband setup.
 
 
Thats where I am at now!
 
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