Jump to content
HybridZ

Stroker Dyno Results


glitched

Recommended Posts

Took the car to the dyno today.

 

http://youtu.be/4BwdM0fj3ZI?

 

Fast forward to 1:28 

 

 

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wlWMrXAQsQg/UXa_fe9mBgI/AAAAAAAACms/ywbieKYlx4g/s1048/20130423_120548.jpg

 

Motor was built by Datsun Parts LLC and has about 2000 miles on it now. 

 

Build list:

N42 block

N42 Head (Full Port & Polish)

Stainless valves

11/1 compression

490/290 cam

schneider double coil springs and crommoly retainers

LD28 forged crank

L24 piston rods

ARIAS Pistions (flat heads with valve pockets) 

Full floating pins

JDM timing set ARP studs

arizona zcar aluminium performance oil pan

JDM ceramic coated header (6 into 3 to 2) (intake manifold also ceramic coated)

3in exhaust with double glasspack

JSK fuel rail

270cc turbo injectors

60mm throttle body

Rising Rate fuel regulator

Cold air intake

NGK plugs

Fidanza aluminum flywheel 

Centerforce clutch

83 Trubo 5 speed 

R200 open diff

Royal Purple 10-50 engine oil and Trans oil

Edited by glitched
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That engine should be making more power than that.

 

What are you using for engine management? That combination should be capable of a LOT more than that. What did the cylinder head flow at? A full "street port" will usually come in around 200CFM intake, 140CFM exhaust, and will be capable of at least 225 HP, if not more. Different shops call different flow numbers different things, but that's "the usual" numbers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or maybe there's a bench racer mentality of what a build can do?

 

No, I have not done any digging yet of other dynos of fuel injected strokers (without ITBs). No, I'm not an expert in dyno science where numbers can be affected by type or setup (or shops that "race" their dynos with other local shops).

No, I'm not even all that knowledgeable nor experienced about the car and what a build should do. I'm a "driver" and shade tree mechanic who bought this car last fall and put it into storage until spring. Since I bought it, the only work I've done is replaced the alternator, rewired the electric fans (previous owner had them powered off the ignition coil as a quick fix because he didnt have time to do it right before he sold it to me), installed longer wheel studs, replaced wheel bearings, and installed a front sway bar. 

 

Anyway, BEGi FPR and the pressure gauge reads within 40-70

No aftermarket computer or anything, nothing to tune except timing really, and that's at 45 

 

I was running 93 octane. No detonation. Smells a little rich to me. They used descriptors like "good/clean/crisp" when making comments on the smell. They did not hook up AFR.

I asked them about when i pulled the plugs at home, they were black and smelled of gas (but dry) and they said that wasn't an issue.

 

I went to Kelly Moss because they've been around for a long time and have experience and are a proper race shop, so I was leaning on their expertise. 

DSC_0154_2.JPG

Edited by glitched
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's why it's not making power, you have stock efi. I would get a wideband with that setup.....and a way way better engine management.

 

As for the bench racing comment, I've seen a dual SU car pull 192rwhp with a great port, needle setup, and large cam. And that was on an L28 bottom. Also the port means nothing if your manifolds aren't port matched with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not "bench racing" as much as we've seen properly tuned 3.1 strokers make MUCH more than what you put down...so we were intending to offer solutions as to why it's down on power.

 

Heck, a cammed stocker can make 180WHP, with proper tuning, and ITS engines make 200+ on "stock-by-rules" engines.

 

Black, dry, gassy plugs say it's running too rich, what's the ground strap look like? White to the bend, then dark after?

 

The stock ECU really doesn't handle cams well on stock displacement engines. If you decide to go to an aftermarket like Megasquirt or the Z31 computer+Nistune, you can probably make a nice power bump happen with not a lot of work.

 

45* of timing? On an 11:1 compression engine, it's astonishing that you're not getting detonation even on pump 93 AND the cam. Are you measuring with the vacuum advance connected? (which would not be terribly out of line, if you are.) Most L-series 6-cylinder engines run best with about 36 degrees of mechanical timing advance on the N42 head, with up to 45-48 degrees under cruise vacuum.

 

The power peak seems to coincide with the stock computer; the factory engine managment goes open loop at around 4000RPM and switches to a fixed fueling map that isn't influenced by the AFM much, if at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the plug...the center conductor arcs to the ground strap. If you're gonna read plugs, gotta look at all of the plug.

 

The outer steel ring should be pretty dark, the center porcelain should be tannish, and the ground strap should be clean and white to the bend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a Datsun Parts LLC motor.  I don't think that he's a professional builder of performance engines.  Not saying he doesn't know what he's doing but he doesn't have a track record.

 

 

I'm really not trying to bash on your engine or the builder.  Just saying that he might be just a guy learning as he goes.

 

 

Edit 2 - Curious - does he supply a build sheet with the engine with measurements,  things like combustion chamber volume or flow numbers, cam/valve timing numbers (opening and closing), distributor specs, etc?  That would tell something also about what you might expect from the collection of parts.

Edited by NewZed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a Datsun Parts LLC motor.  I don't think that he's a professional builder of performance engines.  Not saying he doesn't know what he's doing but he doesn't have a track record.

 

 I Didn't choose the builder, and I didn't buy the motor.  Like usual when you buy a car someone's already built and put money into, I got a deal as he sold it for a LOT less than put into it.  I knew going in that it wouldn't be of the same level of a rebello motor. I still can't really complain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

glitched,

Please relax and try not to get to miffed at some of the responses you get from some guy's in a thread like this. If you can over look the perceived sarcasm  you will definitely learn how to improve your numbers on the motor. There is a wealth of knowledge here. You just have to learn how to get it out of these guy's heads with out getting pissed off first...  :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's not a bad start.  Probably a lot more in there.  The other guys know much more than I do about extracting power, I'm more interested in seeing what Datsun Parts LLC is putting out for product.

 

Good luck with it and thanks for posting the dyno results.  It does seem odd though that the shop didn't take any AFR readings at all.  The results would have been more valuable, especially for a baseline for future tuning.  Maybe they broke all of their O2 sensors and didn't want to waste a session.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting your numbers-sorry if my "where's the beef" comment seemed more than what it was. I was thinking of those old Wendy commercials-I think - where the old lady says that classic line-"where's the beef"

 

Proper tune and proper engine management and you will surely increase those numbers. From what I have read over the years the stock ECU will not handle this engine.

The timing numbers don't make sense to me either. 

 

Not sure how long you have been around this sight, but you will hear over and over that it's all about tuning.

 

I went to a car show last year where this guy had a 'stroker' also. My L24 was just a few ponies short of his on the dyno-he was pissed.  

 

Good luck with your machine and enjoy the wealth of expertise here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didnt mean to come off that way. and have not taken any offence. just playing ball. :) I've been on various car forums since 2001. 

I'm also now in contact with Datsun Parts LLC, he remembers building the motor back in 2008.

 

 

 

Got any links or pointers to point me in the direction for engine managment?  I'm not sure if this would be something i could do myself.  But i have read up on nistune a couple years ago, whats this about switching to a z31 ecu?

Edited by glitched
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...