302 v8

[Impalla672]

Hi, I am wanting to get a '75 or older Datsun z car as a first car, but me being the punk teenager that i am i want to swap a Ford 302 in it.

Was wondering how difficult the whole process would be. I figure that i will need to get a new wire harness, engine mounts. and tranny (don't know what one. some any input on that would be nice). I plan on buying a crate engine just to save some time with the whole process. Also i was wondering for those who have done this before, what exhaust did you use? And how big of a difference did it make to the mpg?  I cant think of anything else to ask right now.. But if i missed something that i should keep in mind when doing this swap please let me know. Thank you

[Impalla672]

Maybe even a 289 swap.

[Mike kZ]

There is a ton of info on this. Go to the top right and type in "302" in the search box and read, read, read.

[thedarkie]

Read the top thread, you can buy mounting kits for a 302, and you'll probably wanna use a T5 transmission. If you go carb'd, there's little in the way of wiring other than getting the stock gauges to work. Like Mike said- read read and read some more. All the info is already here. For the exhaust you basically have to have a custom one built... should be able to get that done for $700-1000 in stainless. As for mileage, that's completely down to the choice of motor and how you drive it. I can't tell you how my 306 with a 670cfm carb does because my speedo is broken, but it's definitely not an ecomony car. Older V8s tend to be pigs, especially when carbureted..

Edited May 7, 2013 by thedarkie

[Zhunter]

My 302 datsun still manages 18 on a good day with a carb'ed 5.0. Once injected she'll get much better than factory mpg.

[LMoore56]

Well like the others have said, the info is here, and a lot of it. Mine, I'm going old school with it. I am stroking a 351W out to a 387. It's a 3.85 stroke and a stock bore. The heads are the 4 bbl Cleveland heads and a edelbrock E-Boss intake, and long tube headers, with a dual 2 1/2" exhaust. I've got a 97 Ford Explorer rear end in the car, and if I can't get the money for a TKO 600, I'm going to use my 4 speed top loader tranny. I've all ready got it set up for the 4 speed. If I go with that one, I'm going with 2.87 gears for mpg. I'm in the process of making tubular lower A arms, with 03 Mustang Cobra spindles, Struts, and Fox body Caster Camber plates. I also found that My 429 CJ fits in the engine bay. I may put it in my other 77 280Z that I've got. Well I've rambled on to much, and I better get. I tried to show a picture with the 429 CJ in the car, but it's not working.

[natedagreat92]

Its not too difficult, but I'd imagine its more than a SBC swap. I bought Brian Laines kit and had to modify every piece to work in my 76 280z, I think the kid was made for 240z's originally. But the engine sits SO WELL in there!! With the distributor in the front you dont have to shave your hood latch and make it sit further back. Heres a picture of mine for you guys...

 

Edited May 16, 2013 by natedagreat92

[scca]

get a whole 89-95 mustang -- you can usually find higher mileage hatchbacks under 1500.. less if auto..

 

the efi harness on a 5.0 is separate from the car-- there are a few websites that will show you how to modify the wiring to be 3 wire-- power - ground key on power.. ..

 

the stock 5.0 in my vert has more power than both previous L6 motors- one was L28- triple mikunis- cam'd etc.. #2 was a L2800 turbo with HKS intercooler kit and SDS EFI..

 

i prefer fords but if you could find a cheap low mile 5.3 LS motor thats a good HP for low $.. the 5 speed will cost as much as the whole ford 5.0 driveline though..

[ukcats07]

I used a carb'd 75 Mexican Block in my 1973 240z.  Wiring is super simple this way and lets you focus on the rest of the swap.  I built my mounts using Brian Laine's drawings as references and used JTRs transmission mount.  If you search my name, I posted google sketchup drawings of my mounts...very similar in design to Brian's, just modified a little for the engine mounts I wanted to use and how I wanted the motor to sit.  

 

The process I used for making my mounts was like this:

-Lower the engine and transmission into the car

-Back the motor up to the firewall as close as you can (mine is about 1/2" from the firewall on the driver's side) and focus on getting the transmission where you want it and make sure it lines up nicely with the diff and shifter hole

-I would have the headers attached at this point and make sure you have clearance with the steering column as well (my motor is canted to the passenger side ever so slightly because of this)

-Drill the holes and mount the transmission

-Now focus on the motor height and angle using the hoist

-Once you get it where you want it, I used some thick cardboard and mocked up 2" square tubing.  I used this cardboard tubing to make a cardboard mount that fit exactly where I wanted the motor to sit

-Measure your mock-up and build that bitch with 2" square tubing and angle iron

 

Obviously there is more than one way to skin this cat, but I found this to be the easiest when I was going through this process.  If I were you, I would buy Brian Laine's kit, the JTR transmission mount and a bottle of Woodford.  You could have the motor and transmission in the car before the second pull of the bottle