CrayZ Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I'm redoing my rear end and came across the lower control drop mounts. I'm pretty disappointed in the stock drop mounts. They look like they would bend with a good breeze. I'm actually surpized that they hold up the factory LCA's and figure with a v8 convertion and plenty of abuse they would be destroyed. I've been looking at TTT and some other options but can't justify spending $300 plus for such a simple design.. Has anyone on here beefed up the stockers or made their own? Just looking for ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 They will bend if you curb your car hard enough. I spun once on the street (I don't do that any more) and shattered a cast iron hub and destroyed a rear rim, but my drop mounts are still perfect. They were designed for the loading that they get under normal stress vectors (don't I sound smart?). I've been abusing mine for 20 years and they are fine. I would find something better to spend my money on - like a nitrous kit or a set of slicks. You've spent a bundle on that car since you got it and really worked your arse off. Did the new intake work get you a lot faster? Most guys do intake-cam-nitrous. I'll be doing nitrous-cam-intake. Bang for the buck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 It's hard to imagine they would hold up but that's why I asked. I just got done installing the FAST/oil pump/new 46lb injectors/ valve covers/92mm TB AND LS2 maf.. Don't have a tune yet, still waiting on my exhuast peices and a tune. She's on blocks and has been for over a month. I'm getting anxious. Instill have to finish my stg 4 brake kit, fuel cell and 1" BMC.. She'll be a beast when I'm done. I'd like nitrous but I think I'm going to go turbo after I get bored of the 4- 420hp she should make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I have several bent and cracked drop mounts. Messes toe up in a hurry! Im not sure the aluminum is any stronger, but consider this: If that didnt bend what would? Feel like replacing the built in box frame in the rear? Build in your weakness. The only reason my car isnt a total loss for me and what I can/am willing to repair is that those drop brackets bent and cracked leaving my frame straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 There have been many different attempts to improve this area of the car. Most involve braces from the bottom of the upright to the mustache bar or frame. I've never seen another car with so flimsy a setup, and I'm not so sure that I buy into the idea of building in weakness so that it bends there instead of somewhere else. Compliance there is going to result in toe out on the outside wheel under load. I reinforced it a bit and made a toe adjuster for the back. bjhines did similar. Terry Oxandale made a large aluminum plate to mount the diff and then incorporated the toe adjust mechanism into his as well. Search and you'll find various solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Look here: http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 There have been many different attempts to improve this area of the car. Most involve braces from the bottom of the upright to the mustache bar or frame. I've never seen another car with so flimsy a setup, and I'm not so sure that I buy into the idea of building in weakness so that it bends there instead of somewhere else. Compliance there is going to result in toe out on the outside wheel under load. I reinforced it a bit and made a toe adjuster for the back. bjhines did similar. Terry Oxandale made a large aluminum plate to mount the diff and then incorporated the toe adjust mechanism into his as well. Search and you'll find various solutions. I also thought about tying into the mustache bar for added support. The idea of boxing in the drop mounts seems the most logical. I have installed TTT lower control arms so adjusting toe is covered. The reason I embarked on this journey in the first place was due to severe negative toe, hince why I purchased the LCA's. I don't feel comfortable going through all this work of squareing up the rear end and leaving a weak link in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 I cut a 4 triangles that "boxed?" the sides. Smallest angle nearest the arm. Tig welded on the sides. Did it help? I don't know. It was an easy thing to do & it made me feel better. It did make getting the bolts into the frame a bit more difficult. You could make an X that starts on the inside of the bolts, maybe a bit more strength and easier access to the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 Look here: http://www.arizonazcar.com/diffmount.html Thanks, I've seen the options out there but just can't justify $300 + for something so basic in design. I'm not one for show so all the bling is unnecessary In my opinion. If there where a $150 basic steel option I would have purchased it already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 I cut a 4 triangles that "boxed?" the sides. Smallest angle nearest the arm. Tig welded on the sides. Did it help? I don't know. It was an easy thing to do & it made me feel better. It did make getting the bolts into the frame a bit more difficult. You could make an X that starts on the inside of the bolts, maybe a bit more strength and easier access to the bolts. You wouldn't happen to have taken pictures would you? I'd love to see other people's designs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 The setup is stronger then most folks think. Remember, the front of the a-arms are captured in the subframe/diff crossmember. You can get some pretty nasty wheel hop under acceleration so some reinforcement helps.for drag race style launches. I've pulled sustained 1.25Gs road racing and not had any issues. I did add bracing from the outer end of the transverse link brace as Jon mentioned above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 (edited) The setup is stronger then most folks think. Remember, the front of the a-arms are captured in the subframe/diff crossmember. You can get some pretty nasty wheel hop under acceleration so some reinforcement helps.for drag race style launches. I've pulled sustained 1.25Gs road racing and not had any issues. I did add bracing from the outer end of the transverse link brace as Jon mentioned above. Duly noted, I think i will make a "dogbone" or traverse link of my own. The one i have now is quite mangled to make room for the finned diff cover. I wonder if this could have been causing my toe issues? please take in mind that i did NOT build this brace. I received the vehicle with this already installed. The brace is also holding up the front of the diff but i have made some custom mounts to replace the brace. My plan is to cut out and utilize the two halves that pinch the bushings together and weld in a new transverse link, what do you guys think? Also i must admit i cannot get a mental picture of the type of bracing you and Jmortensen are referring to. I searched for some of the other examples given and was not able to turn up anything. Im all ears, If you guys have a good idea to get this squared away lets hear it. Edited May 15, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Is you rear suspension toed-in or toed-out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) In on both wheels Edited May 16, 2013 by CrayZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Ack! Replace that rear transverse link brace ASAP. It's junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrayZ Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 After getting a better look at the transverse link and realizing how beat up it is and the amount of work needed to get this rear done right I decided to bite the bullet and just order the TTT drop mounts and dog bone. I haven't spared any expense so far so why start now right? It costs money to do things right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 There's a Hybridz member who was making a modified brace. Seems pretty popular. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98295-steel-brace-for-r200-clsd-finned-cover-in-s30-new-list-and-design/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97134-steel-brace-for-clsd-r200-finned-cover-use-in-s30-zcar/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cockerstar Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 The one Richard makes is worth every penny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stlbmxking Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 How did the TTT drop mounts work out for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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