VQ30DET swap in 240z

[docaam]

I was planning for a while to swap RB25/30 NA setup but after reviewing it a lot  working with different heads and lack of upgraded cams in some heads dropped the idea. Moved to VQ35DE/HR for which wiring is a bit of a pain but then couldnt find HR engine and where I found with online wiring service (2k$) and engine cost over all project costs jumped.

 

So in between talking to few installer came across something unusual and interesting taking it as a challenge.

 

VQ30DET, its a rare engine same quad cams but block is much stronger then VQ35 and low compression as it comes with a turbo from factory. 

 

 

The 3.0 L (2,987 cc) VQ30DET is a turbocharged version of the VQ30DE. Bore and stroke remain the same at 93 mm and 73.3 mm respectively, and it has a compression ratio of 9.0:1. It produces 270 PS (200 kW; 270 hp) and 271 lb·ft (367 N·m). From 1998 onwards, it produces 280 PS (210 kW; 280 hp) @6000 rpm and 285 lb·ft (386 N·m) @3600 rpm.

It is fitted to the following vehicles:

1995–2004 Nissan Gloria Y33,Y34

1995–2004 Nissan Cedric Y33,Y34

1997–1999 Nissan Leopard Y33

2001–present Nissan Cima F50

 

As per some forums stock engine is running on 5-6psi and gives around 280hp and turbo can go easily upto 14psi before playing with the wastegate and power can go upto 350ish but still needs to be checked, as people are running cars upto 500whp on stock block and its holding great so there is good potential in the engine. Being a destroked version compared to VQ35 its revs better as well. One other things which my mechanic said engine is without VVT so can change the cam gears as well if needed along with cams maybe for future.

 

After looking for a while found one here, as per Air flow meter clips seems like came out of 2002-2006 model Nissan Cima here it is

 

 

Bought the whole things with 8 speed CVT gearbox lol, and engine mounts sway bars and most importantly ECU and harness.

 

Was lucky found a CD009 gearbox out of 2006 JDM 350z as well.

 

 

Covers removed from engine

 

There will be alteration needed in cross member, whole exhaust manifold on engine and might need to move the turbo a bit as well.

 

I opened up the engine so do some colours and for some porting the exhaust and intake inlets, engine was clean but too much slug inthe oil sump seems like car was running on those 30k limited oil, but compression came out good. Only problem was turbo came out broken one fan was missing so will change that from the shop got the engine. 

 

Fan was chocked and one side one is missing, as for the size seems bigger then RB25 turbo more like GT25 series size.

 

 

Engine opened up

 

Intake and TB

 

Lower intake manifold

 

These are parts I dropped for chroming will do a contrast in these three

 

Pulleys as well for chroming (sample chrome piece on left side )

Edited May 23, 2013 by docaam

[RedBeauty84ZX]

Awesome, a VQ30DET swap is very cool!

 

So the VQ30DET had no form of variable valve timing at all? Also does the 350Z 6 speed bolt straight up or is an adapter needed?

Edited May 23, 2013 by RedBeauty84ZX

[docaam]

Awesome, a VQ30DET swap is very cool!

 

So the VQ30DET had no form of variable valve timing at all? Also does the 350Z 6 speed bolt straight up or is an adapter needed?

 

Atleast the one I got doesn't have VVT, not sure about newer models. As for gearbox havent mated it yet but there is housing difference from HR model which is 2007 till now.

Edited May 29, 2013 by docaam

[ArchetypeDatsun]

I always wondered about those VQ30DETs seen then for sale before pretty decent price how much hp from factory?  I'm sure nothing is interchangeable from VQ35 to VQ30 right? 

[raven12]

This looks very interesting! Will be following this. Do you think the already made VQ engine mounts made by Mckinney Motorsports would work?

[docaam]

I always wondered about those VQ30DETs seen then for sale before pretty decent price how much hp from factory?  I'm sure nothing is interchangeable from VQ35 to VQ30 right? 

 

Cams are with adaptors, oil pump, and so does some other things, but people havent do some much work on it. Block is much stronger then VQ35 so I doubt anything needed to be changed there for head people have changed cams in some builts

 

This looks very interesting! Will be following this. Do you think the already made VQ engine mounts made by Mckinney Motorsports would work?

 

No logistically not worth it so will make custom here

[Pharaohabq]

Looking good Docaam.   Glad to see you got an engine.  The VQ30 and VQ35de are supposed to be the same block so that tranny should just bolt right up.  That engine is really dirty. I hope it won't smoke.  Pulling off the heads would be a pain.  Did you find those plans for the VQ mounts?  I don't know if I sent them on to you or not.  I'm glad the compression didn't seem to bad, was that wet or dry readings?

 

As for the Chrome, you might hold off as for about the same cost you can get a billet underdrive set off Ebay shipped for roughly the same cost.  The rest, sure you can have it chromed, but You may want to wait till you know the engine is good first.  As with any swap, it's important to keep in your main goal of getting the swap running before you go onto all the other projects like AC and "Bling". that's because everything else is worthless w/o the engine running.  You'll need a 350Z or compatible driveshaft to fit that tranny. Also you'll need an adapter to shorten the shifter to fit in the S30.    

 

I'll be watching your thread.

[docaam]

Thanks Eric, engine is dirty but in good condition let's see how it behaves once all wires up and start There are lots of engines coming from Japan which use their so called 40k km limit oil so they don't change oil but just to top ups making lot of sludge in the engine and majority of times people like those as they are nice after cleaning them up.

 

The gearbox I got had got 4 inches of shaft so will wled the current one with it.

 

For mounts will be custom ones and chroming I'm doing because its all opened up will be a hassle to do it later. As per my experience these light weight pulleys aren't that good on VQ engines and disturb the harmonic balancer. GTM reckons not to use these UR, Stillen pulleys only good is ATI

[docaam]

Did some quick port and polish job done.

 

 

Removed cam and timing covers got those chromed first!

 

Red and black colour was applied on these along with matte and glossy clearcoat to have have some kind of anodized effect in red and other black chrome.

 

 

Will be installed once engine is all cleaned up

 

Removed the old engine and engine bay came out messy, thinking of painting a satin black or sating finish golden while its empty, any suggestions?

 

 

Engine mounts are in works, which is the tricky part will update how it goes.

[RedBeauty84ZX]

Looking great!

[docaam]

Removed the Adaptronic ECU little bit of wiring to be removed then previous engine and other stuff will be shipped ti California

 

Dropped the new engine in to have some measurements for exhaust manifold and custom mounts

 

 

Sits way back and intake might touch the hood

 

 

Gearshifter braket needs goood 4-5" of cutting to come in place of stock hole as well.

 

 

Crossmember is touching the crank case but will move the engine down another 3-4". Will alter the cross member might make a new one and move the radiator close to engine along with AC condenser and Oil cooler. Intercooler will be in same place as before might be longer pipes but wont be close to hot oil cooler.

 

 

Parts already ordered will be here in a week's time

1. Griffin Double Pass Radaitor 19" X 24"

2. 16" Flex-a-Lite high majic 3300 CFM puller fan with shroud would need some shroud work, going with single big fan then twins as last time.

3. JWT clutch and flywheel combo

4. Moshimoto Intercooler

5. Moshimoto Coolant reserviour tank

 

Also converting to power steering from Subaru Forester

[Pharaohabq]

Looking good.  That's exactly the reason we have to mod the crossmember. It's the only way to get it to sit low enough.  Now how high does your intake plenum sit?  I'm pretty interested in seeing that, since the VQ35 plenums are so large. The VQ30 might be swapable between the two engines, if that's the case it might be an option for the VQ35DE guys.

 

Why move the Radiator?  the fan doesn't do that much for the engine, mostly it's the airflow through the radiator that does most of the cooling.  Granted it's a LOT hotter where you live, but it might just be a better idea to use a thicker radiator, mounted in the stock location with an electric fan (some people use 90's ford taurus Efans, but whatever you can find in Dubai is great.

 

Did you chrome then paint the timing cover, or did I just miss some masking?

[docaam]

Looking good.  That's exactly the reason we have to mod the crossmember. It's the only way to get it to sit low enough.  Now how high does your intake plenum sit?  I'm pretty interested in seeing that, since the VQ35 plenums are so large. The VQ30 might be swapable between the two engines, if that's the case it might be an option for the VQ35DE guys.

 

Why move the Radiator?  the fan doesn't do that much for the engine, mostly it's the airflow through the radiator that does most of the cooling.  Granted it's a LOT hotter where you live, but it might just be a better idea to use a thicker radiator, mounted in the stock location with an electric fan (some people use 90's ford taurus Efans, but whatever you can find in Dubai is great.

 

Did you chrome then paint the timing cover, or did I just miss some masking?

 

I think VQ30 has smaller plenum but higher, mine lower and middle part is still with porting guy, but I did bring lower plenum from VQ35DE and holes are slightly different, first the pattern in 35 its almost round while in 30 its more of oval shape and injector holes doesn't line up. The best plenum from 35 is of HR, DE is a bit restricted as well and there are some companies making an improved version like Kinetic, Motordyne also sells a spacer for 35DE. Even I used Motordyne in take plenum in my 370z which is some revised version of stock VQ35HR.

 

I am really looking forward to change middle part from mine and use either 35DE or even 35HR one as can route the pipe towards passenger side easily.

 

I gave the previous radiator and flex-a-lite twins with the previous engine and got new radiator and fan, moving close to the engine first just for aesthetic purpose too much space between engine and radaitor seems like you have dropped half of the engine, second will move the oil cooler, AC condensor and radiator away from intercooler. Planning on something like this if remove everything and just some pipes for strengthening or might move the stock apron closer.

 

 

Another idea is this without too much cutting

 

For timing cover yeah it was chromed but painted chrome then red with matte clear coat.

 

We did cut the cross member, seems like its gone no strength at all there will enforce it later once all other settings are done but now engine goes down. Needed some cutting on passenger side because of the oil filter location.

 

 

My question is as I will be making a new cross member for the engine which will go below the engine can this one be reversed and moved in front of steering rack compared to behind, any issues I can encounter moving it?

[docaam]

Working on the engine mounts, cross member had to be dissected quiet a lot, will reinforce it with steel sheets where the line is, which will be done once new forester steering rack reaches here on Thursday. Might need to relocate the oil filter as well.

 

 

Took a rollcage style pipe 1.5" will use it as new cross member welded to two plates which will lie on stock chassis rails, as we can weld anything on the chassis so will drill the rails and install steel tube to hold the bolts might put less stress on the rails. Mounts will be using stock for VQ35DE from 350Z, so far spacing seems tight but manageable

 

 

Main issue which was worried about was exhaust manifold with the turbo so that fits without touching the chassis rails but still engine is more on right side then left so some small alternation might be needed. There is same plate with two holes and some provision is left to move engine front and back incase its needed

 

 

For gear shifter might need some cutting as well where the red circle is marked but it will be done in the end.

 

[docaam]

Got the parts and work is moving as well

 

Cross member taking final shape

 

 

Took the broken turbo and got it replaced with a similar one, very nice condition.

 

 

Got JWT clutch and flywheel

 

 

Rest of parts

 

Double pass Griffin radiator 19""x 24" found it to be the best for this purpose 

 

Flex A Lite 16" fan with shroud

Edited June 17, 2013 by docaam

[docaam]

Sorry couldn't post updates but there has been some progress, installing this engine sure is difficult 

 

We managed to get a custom cross member done for the engine now its in final shape and been tested already, with stock 350Z mounts

 

 

With mounts on 

 

Installed the covers to see some space and test the mounts

 

Drilled holes as will keep screws to hold the mount to avoid any registration issues

 

AC compressor blocking stock steering rack

 

Turbo might touch/melt the steering coupler but it will be removed with new rack

 

Height without upper intake manifold seems ok

 

New Steering cross member, clamps to hold the suby steering is not not finalized will use stock rubber bushes. Its basically will move the rack almost half an inch forward but gives good space for crankcase

 

So with suby steering at least keeping AC compressor with a VQ engine seems to be solved there is around 3/4th of an inch gap and can be moved futher with adding another joint.

 

Height might be an issue need some shaving of intake manifold

 

Once steering rod is done will remove both cross members get those properly welded then grinding some epoxy primer and get it powder coated moving to exhaust manifold and fitting other parts.

[Pharaohabq]

Oooh, that's a big change there with the rack, you'll need to be careful getting things lined up because you could really throw off the steering geometry.  I'd heard of swapping the stock cross member 180 deg, but you still have the same geomety issue. The steering rack holds the mount for the lower steering arms and thus you can't move it and when you redesign you need to be really careful to keep those arms in the same location.  Take a look at how that suspension is going to mount before you do too much more work in that direction.  other than that, you can drop the engine another 1-2cm and consider a skid plate to protect the oil pan, that's a lot cheaper than shaving, but put your hood on and check before you change the height/shave.

[docaam]

Coming to crossmember I checked pathfinder crank case I suggest using that to people it's atleast 2 inches shorter from front but as I made new for steering rack won't change now.

 

Dropping engine also not possible need to do mounts again then and crank case might rub as I will keep car a bit more lower then now. I saw a S15 built with same engine he managed to shave middle and lower intake manifold around quarter of an inch or so will try shaving first and I ported it so might be better airflow there.

 

Now for geometry I'm a bit worried as well on that part but I haven't changed the point where lower control arms meet its the stock one just removed the stock rack and stock cross member and this new fabricated one will make the Suby rack sit an inch forward which makes room for AC compressor as well. Once the mount is finalised will post pictures and might look for opinion. Outer tie rod end might needed to be replaced from Suby legacy to those bent ones common in toyota as Suby ones will be under slight stress just assuming at the moment.

[Pharaohabq]

Right, okay, Well looking at the new steering crossmember for your rack, it's quite a bit different than the stock location. You may also need to add longer inner tie rods to adjust the angle. That's not to say it won't work moved an inch forward, but I'm not sue there's that much adjustment in the tie rod ends to allow it to be aligned.  You've got it there, so you're going to be the best judge of what works.    I get really concerned about the steering linkage angles using those Subi U joints. They're huge. 

 

Is it possible to rotate the Subi rack back so the Pinion points under the AC compressor?  If you did that you could lower the rack and move it backward in the compartment under the main crank pully and the AC compressor.  you may have to cut a scoop out of the driverside frame rail, to allow the shaft to come up to meet the steering shaft, but you'd get your steering back more to a stock position, while keeping your AC compressor.

 

The Stock 350Z steering U joints are much smaller, which may make it easier to fit.  I pulled 3 steering columns from the junkyard so I'd have enough U-joints, I'm sure you can order them from Nissan if your JY doesn't have them.

[docaam]

Right, okay, Well looking at the new steering crossmember for your rack, it's quite a bit different than the stock location. You may also need to add longer inner tie rods to adjust the angle. That's not to say it won't work moved an inch forward, but I'm not sue there's that much adjustment in the tie rod ends to allow it to be aligned.  You've got it there, so you're going to be the best judge of what works.    I get really concerned about the steering linkage angles using those Subi U joints. They're huge. 

 

Is it possible to rotate the Subi rack back so the Pinion points under the AC compressor?  If you did that you could lower the rack and move it backward in the compartment under the main crank pully and the AC compressor.  you may have to cut a scoop out of the driverside frame rail, to allow the shaft to come up to meet the steering shaft, but you'd get your steering back more to a stock position, while keeping your AC compressor.

 

The Stock 350Z steering U joints are much smaller, which may make it easier to fit.  I pulled 3 steering columns from the junkyard so I'd have enough U-joints, I'm sure you can order them from Nissan if your JY doesn't have them.

 

Yeah i guess inner and out tie rods needed to be changed. Actually so far haven't placed the tie rod ends and checked as I kept that for later once engine is in. Check the picture below steering rack looks a bit different once its all finished, the brackets holding the rack are stock suby ones. 350z U joint is a good idea will look into it, but I will leave all these till engine is IN, as things will be more clear at later stage. 

 

Cross members are done with finished. Grinding was done then rust proofed then painted matte black, looks much better 

 

Engine one

 

 

Steering cross-member, still needs to be installed and checked for measurements

 

Gearbox mount

 

Will be using 350z auto transmission mount bushes

 

Shortening of the gearbox is done as well, got almost 4 inches or more out

 

Cut and weld

 

Sent the car to get engine bay painted black