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RebekahsZ

Maintaining brakes DURING a race.

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Keith, I hate dual purpose pads.  They simply don't work for my personal level of driving on the track, don't give the proper feedback and are more frustration than they are worth.  Your car will hit some serious speeds, so I'd recommend a dual pad approach.  find a good street pad that is quiet and works well for single stops at the drags, but gives enough stopping power for autoX (low heat there, so you don't need crazy bite) and then go with a GREAT trackpad for the track.  You're already swapping wheels, so swapping out pads and bleeding the brakes for a real track event should be part of the routine anyway.  I like Hawk Blacks, because they're cheap, they work very well in the application i have, and they last.

 

Mike

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We converted our Z over to AZ Dave's  big vented rotors running 24 Hours of lemons endurance races. We completed a true 24 hours of racing at Sears Point this year in 3 days. NO ISSUES - brakes never faltered.  - did blow out booster though.

 

We are running a Wilwood 1" master, WW prop valve, no e brake. used a line lock, then it failed so we took it out.

 

Very happy with AZ brakes. truly bolt on and took a beating, haven't ordered a second set of rotors yet but Dave says rotors are turntable and readily available.

 

Contract to 260 Z running same event had to come to let front stock rotors cool, and change every night ...

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Dave sent them with our kit and I need to find out what they are . I believe they are wildwood pads .but they make several compounds . we did 24 hours and like beermanpete we have a lot of pad left and very little wear on the discs. We have vented disc front and back , We are very happy with the set up (1" WW MC and a pro portioning valve .) Tried a line lock as a parking brake and it stuck so we took it out no need for our use .

 

Another Z (260) running stock brakes kept having to come in pits to cool brakes and has to change rotors every night .

 

Needless to say we are very happy with the setup and the willwood parts are easy to obtain if needed

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Fronts had ducts from the air dam but no alum hose. So not sure how much air it got. we are running at Thunderhill next and will fab some dryer hose duct. We did blow out the stock booster, probably the original unit. Just upgrading to the 8" one. Need to drill new firewall holes and drill and tap the brake pedal connector as the bolt on the new unit is bigger than the old one.

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I SUPER appreciate your advice and sharing-more expresso! I have a wheel at Dave's for a test fit/clearance plan-I should hear something any day now. I guess the easiest way to maintain brakes during a hard day of racing is to just inspect them, shrug your shoulders and say: "They're good!" I have enough engine torque that I just snapped the yoke of my driveshaft the other night. I'm gonna need some better stopping. My wife has been so super cool lately; told her I need a new brake system and she just said, "OK." Wow! Got lucky on that one.

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I had fitment issues as well. i took a bunch of measurements and found some 15 inch rims would fit but some would not.. (depended on the radius between the rim and the basket.. (we were trolling craigs list for cheap wheels) so we just went with 16" rotas. When you install watch the LCA lip, I ground it 3 times for clearance, (we have the short knuckles with the bump steer drop), In the end I took Dave's advice and just cut off the end. no more clearance issues.  When we repack the bearings i may weld a plate across where I cut do it doesn't look like such a hack job.. we cut them with the rotor on.... not the best way to get clean lines.. 

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What tool should I use to compress the wheel cylinders on these Wilwood dynalytes and superlytes that come with the AZC kit? I've been a c-clamp guy for years and I'm hoping there is a better tool for track side use that doesn't require removal of the caliper...getting closer. Meeting with welder today to finish up the modified rear caliper brackets. Have PM'd m1noel to beg pics of his p-brake cable routing.

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Keep sending options, gurus! Thanks. I had somebody else recommend a big screwdriver. I know I have a habit of complicating things, but I broke a caliper piston once by prying on it and it made a simple operation a real pita. This brake kit has cost me more than the original purchase price of the car plus the first engine rebuild and I want to treat it with respect! Johnc, do I pry between the rotor and the pad before removing, or remove the pad, then pry between the rotor and the piston after removing the worn pads? I know this seems like a tool bin discussion but while I've done plenty of brake jobs, I want to do it like a race crew, the PROPER way.

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Race crews don't necessarily do it the proper way. They do it the quickest way. It's actually quicker in the pits to do a caliper swap then a pad swap with the OEM front calipers. Three pumps of the brake pedal to bleed it good enough and then three more pumps at the next pit stop 1.5 hours later.

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Here's a simple mod to make brake maintenance easier.  Came up with this because I did my AZC brake kit, THEN, installed my Konis.  Needed to get the caliper out of the way, but didn't want it hanging and putting a kink in the flexible line.  So, I installed a small I-bolt into the inner fender.  I tried a coat hangar as a hook, but it was too flexible, so the next available hook-making material was some left over 3/16 brake line.  Bent it in a hook and "presto" hung the caliper up out of the way so I could pull the strut out of the fender well.  For years I used to set the caliper on a cardboard box inside the fender, but this worked out really well.  For the rears, it looks like it will be ok to just let the calipers hang, since the flex line isn't routed in such a way as to kink the line.

post-5903-0-49521900-1388244534_thumb.jpg

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At least with big hp like a V8 you are not going to be going 'all out' for 20-30 minutes at a time. You will find things get too hot if you try all out qualy lap after lap. Tires go away, brakes, engine, slower traffic, etc so you tend to ease off a lap or two then make a flier when the track is clear, ease off when tire get slippery, etc.

 

Stock brakes pad faded with Hawk HP+ after about 2.5 laps. Full hard pedal but no torque - like ice mode but without ABS. Surprisingly not much better with two piece vented rotors and 4 piston calipers with rear disks. Hawk HT10 were much better. Im on Carbotechs now and honestly havent noticed much difference. Wilwood ultra light rotors were not to durable. Noticable feel difference and they cracked. Take the poundage and use the heavier ones. Ducting w/ 2.5" hose from airdam to stub tube welded to the backing plate works good except I havent found a routing that doesnt rub the tire. My rear 280zx rear rotors (240 sx calipers) are 5? years old and just now starting to heat check. Front rotors are 3 years old now with the heavier ones. Two years on pads is normal. All depends on a dozen variables. I cant imagine changing pads during a weekend if they were relatively fresh. I used to bleed after every track day but now only a couple times a year using ATE or Motul 600.

Edited by heavy85

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