280zex Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 (edited) ok so now that I have the modified 280z bell housing bolted to the 240sx transmission and installed into my 1976 280Z I took some measurements. From the trans out put shaft to the front of the diff flange is 24.5 inches, my diff is the r200 long nose lsd.. The 240sx trans cross member mounting surface sits exactly 1 inch more to the rear, so the 280z cross member center (where the rubber mount bolts to) must be sectioned and re-welded to compensate. I will take pix when I get this done. Attached photo shows were the unmodified trans cross member sits... This pic shows where the shifter mount lines up in the trans tunnel and access hole in the floor board... I left the stock 240sx trans switches (gear indicators??) in the original location and noticed that 1 of them wanted to get hung up on the 280z cross member mount that is welded to the Z frame. All I had to do was lower the jack that was under the oil pan of the engine to lower the alignment point between the trans and engine. This helped greatly with the alignment during trans install. Total install time by myself was 25 min with 2 floor jacks, 1 under the oil pan and the other under the trans. Once the trans is flush with the engine start the 2 lower trans to block bolts and finger tighten, then install the 2 upper bolts and tighten all 4 per FSM torque specs. Then you can jack up on the tail of the trans and install the cross member. To note: I DID NOT remove any of the coolant hoses, turbo plumbing or engine mounts to do this. There is enough flex in my system, so no issues. HOWEVER I do not have a stock radiator fan, so if YOU DO check the clearance first!!! or you might shove the fan blades into the radiator ;-( Edited June 19, 2013 by 280zex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 So have you done the wiring for the reverse lights? and what about the speedo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) So have you done the wiring for the reverse lights? and what about the speedo? The reverse switch was easy, I used the 280z switch that was already installed on the bell housing. The speedo is a programible electronic auto meter, its a 5 inch gauge so it fits right in the dash with no mods Edited June 20, 2013 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 So it works with the 240sx speed sensor? not 100% on how programmable speedo's work. Guessing it takes a reading from the 240sx sensor and you input correct speed values and it creates some sort of plot to go by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 The 240sx trans cross member mounting surface sits exactly 1 inch more to the rear, so the 280z cross member center (where the rubber mount bolts to) must be sectioned and re-welded to compensate. I will take pix when I get this done. I measured this as 30mm. I left the stock 240sx trans switches (gear indicators??) in the original location and noticed that 1 of them wanted to get hung up on the 280z cross member mount that is welded to the Z frame. As per my write-up, I replaced these unused switches with 14mm drain plugs, avoiding any interference issues. So it works with the 240sx speed sensor? not 100% on how programmable speedo's work. Guessing it takes a reading from the 240sx sensor and you input correct speed values and it creates some sort of plot to go by. FYI, you can swap out the 240SX electronic sending unit with a 280ZX mechanical unit and use the stock Z speedo. This is also in my writeup. Nigel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Hmm if I can use the stock ZX speedo gear, then I can harvest the speedo gear off my other tranny for my s13 5 speed swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the heads up on that measurement Nigel, I will re-measure the cross member tonight. As for the speedo, I decided to go with the programable auto meter unit. I wanted to have a speedo that correctly reads the speed that I'm traveling. My stock set-up was off just a little, it was reading 5mph slow at 60mph. And yes I totally forgot about the 14mm plugs for the non-used trans switches, oops...... I also had another set-back today. The drive shaft place that does my work is closing the doors today, owner said something about new govt regulations or something...... The guy did shorten my drive line, but was unable to get new u-joints for me. So it looks like I gota do some google searching for replacement u-joints. Good thing that I found a drive shaft that has the replaceable units!!!! When I get home I will try the fitment of the newly shortened drive shaft I have...... Edited June 24, 2013 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 4mm isn't likely to be a show stopper, but it's worth another look. Now the driveshaft shop? You just can't catch a break! Unbelievable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 4mm isn't likely to be a show stopper, but it's worth another look. Now the driveshaft shop? You just can't catch a break! Unbelievable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 ok so it looks like, from online searching and TonyD posting about an rx7 forum, that the rockford 430-10 u-joints are what I need. I found a shop that has 3 so thats some good luck. Now to find a press I can use.... This should be easy, however I have not replaced a u-joint sence 1984, and that was on a 1976 Dodge Power Wagon 4x4!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 (edited) I did more online searching for possible u-joints last night and found that the prop shaft u-joint for a 1987-89 Nissan Pathfinder (MAY or MAY NOT) be an alternative. The part number I found that was cross referenced from a Datsun 311 web site is GMB 220-0027. So I ordered one and when it gets here I will post up if it works or not. On a side note: if you install a larger diameter rear sway bar, install it AFTER you install the drive shaft. I could not get my new shortened drive shaft to pass the bigger rear sway bar, so I had to remove the body clamps for the sway bar and swear a lot. Edit change: I had the wrong part number listed, GMB 220-0029 is for the half shaft u-joint and GMB 220-0027 is for the drive shaft..... Edited June 25, 2013 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Don't forget the option of using an early 1970 240Z driveshaft. If you can find one. If you're using an early Z driveshaft with replaceable u-joints, why is it so hard to find u-joints? They seem to be a stock item. The ones that are hard to find are the ones to replace the staked-in, not-meant-to-be-replaced u-joints. RockAuto shows the replaceable propeller shaft joints as Moog/Precision Part #391 for the 240Z's. $11.76. http://www.rockauto.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 (edited) Don't forget the option of using an early 1970 240Z driveshaft. If you can find one. If you're using an early Z driveshaft with replaceable u-joints, why is it so hard to find u-joints? They seem to be a stock item. The ones that are hard to find are the ones to replace the staked-in, not-meant-to-be-replaced u-joints. RockAuto shows the replaceable propeller shaft joints as Moog/Precision Part #391 for the 240Z's. $11.76. http://www.rockauto.com/ The u-joint I ordered was 7$ and I am under the impression that this may be the "heavy duity" u-joint that MSA sells??? as far as my prop shaft goes, it does have the non staked in u-joints. They are Torrington 4a's. Where I got this prop shaft is any bodys guess as I don't have a clue.... but it fits, after being shortened 2 inches. The trans side u-joint has a sticky spot so I'm going to replace it... Edited June 25, 2013 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 I got curious and looked around. You might have ordered half-shaft u-joints. Good old atlanticz.ca has a big old list of both. Can't say if it's correct but the site is generally a good starting point. The Moog number is a Falcon number in the list. Your GMB number shows as half-shaft. It also has dimensions at the bottom. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ujoint/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 (edited) I got curious and looked around. You might have ordered half-shaft u-joints. Good old atlanticz.ca has a big old list of both. Can't say if it's correct but the site is generally a good starting point. The Moog number is a Falcon number in the list. Your GMB number shows as half-shaft. It also has dimensions at the bottom. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ujoint/index.html Well rats...................... I was searching at midnight, weary eyed and had a bit of Fosters beer in me!! Oh well.. And that shop I called didnt actually have the rockford u-joint on hand, only in their warehouse, in Nevada... Looks like I wrote down the wrong number is what happened, so gmb 220-0027 is the u-joint I ordered. I had to check my email for the info.... Good catch!! Edited June 25, 2013 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 26, 2013 Author Share Posted June 26, 2013 Finally I found a local race shop that can help with my Z!! This guy has a real 240Z race car with pix of him racing at Thunder hill!! When they get done with my cross member modification I can take my Z down to the shop and put it on the corner scales and what not. The guy is also a race driver instructor and I can join the class and get the Z out on the track!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The guys at the shop want to see my Z bad too, they are very curious about my turbo Holley blow thru and how I got'r done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dude does not have the time, really bussy with race car classes and what not. I went to 5 other local shops and every body is too bussy working on their cars for the races this weekend and the big ass car show on the 4th. So no showing off my HybridZ at any of the car shows on the 4th this year ;-( Boooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Here's an option. Not show quality but it might get you by. It's a variation on a T5 mount modification by a Hybridz member (sorry, no credits given, can't remember who). Cut with a chop saw and a composite metal-cutting blade. Lots of sparks and burning rubber smoke. The offset is about 1 1/16" if you split the middle with a 1/8" blade. I haven't tried it yet, I'm waiting for something to break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 (edited) Here's an option. Not show quality but it might get you by. It's a variation on a T5 mount modification by a Hybridz member (sorry, no credits given, can't remember who). Cut with a chop saw and a composite metal-cutting blade. Lots of sparks and burning rubber smoke. The offset is about 1 1/16" if you split the middle with a 1/8" blade. I haven't tried it yet, I'm waiting for something to break. No NewZed I want this done right and that modification does not look like it would hold up to the HP my Z makes. Maybe it would, but I dont feel comfortable with that mod in the pic.... I have also made my own structural weld in bottom plate for the modified trans brace, to be welded on after sectioning and extending. I know that I get pushy sometimes, and this is just a reminder that good things come to those who wait.... well I guess I hurry up and wait!!! After looking that pic over, it gives me an idea...... looks like I will be under the Z tonight after work!! Edited June 29, 2013 by 280zex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zex Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 I had enough about not finding some body who would mod my trans brace, so I did it my self. I had to buy a wire feed welder, and learn to weld. I found some good how to videos on u-tube for that.............. So here is some pix of my modified trans brace. It looks funky because I sprayed it with a liberal amount of rubber under coating. I will be driving the Z tomorrow!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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