Jump to content
HybridZ

Recommended Posts

These horn button plastic replacements are available now on an as needed basis. PM me about them.  I am always looking for other Z parts to model so if you are looking for that hard to find part, or if you have ideas to modify an existing part, just let me know and we can work up an idea.  If any of you have a 3D Printer yourself, I can share my models on a personal use basis. 

 

I've started working on the ashtray lid but I need to see what the bottom of the lid looks like, since I don't have one to compare.  Does anyone have a picture?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm working on a fiberglass taillight panel similar to the Zforce Productions Corvette style panel (see below), only with staggered size lights (á la Nissan Skyline). I can make a nice smooth panel, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to produce consistent perfectly round rings to go around the lenses.

 

Think you would be able to print out some rings if I gave you the measurements? It would be so much simpler to just inset the rings into the foam body, and wrap the whole thing with FG.

 

I'm planning a fusion of these two styles:

 

IMG_0343a_zps2b4e5764.jpg

 

img9227s_zpsccafe1b9.jpg

 

Edit: I've got a center console in my garage, I'll check to see if the ashtray cover is there, and I'll send it to you if you like. I won't be needing it.

Edited by LanceVance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LanceVance,   Sure if you want to send me the Ashtray cover I'd love to see what I can make from it.  I'll PM you.  Those rings I should be able to do, though on these 3D printers due to the nature of the STL files we'll see they're not exactly round, they're more a series of straight lines in a circle. but the resolution is tight enough that it looks round from any distance more than about a foot away. The variance is within .5 mm.   That being said, I'd be happy to try to print you up some if you give me dimensions.  Would you need the edges beveled like in your picture?  I can model some up and  you'll just need to let me know how big.  The designtime is low so cost shouldn't be much. Some sanding and filling may be required since the plastic is laid in layers, but if you're going to just cover it then this should be fine.

 

post-4150-0-70439000-1376430369_thumb.jpg

quick n dirty side view.  95mmx30mm

 

post-4150-0-17833100-1376430464_thumb.jpg

quick n dirty top view. 95mmx30mm

 

These are solely based on the picture you gave estimating the dimensions. extending 10mm below the surface.  We would print these upside down on a raft to ensure a good print. 

 

Phar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lance,

Why couldn't you make those rings out of MDF? It's just the same as making speaker mounting rings, then use a router or shaper to give you the type of edge you want.

I've considered it actually, but the shape I'm looking for is slightly more complex than just a straight ring... That and I don't have a router!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately those rings ended up being bigger than my machine could handle.  Too wide and the print becomes unstable.  I found that though I should have been able to print about 200mm X 200mm, my actual print area is more like 170mm X 170mm, but even then large prints seem to have issues with shrinkage and adhesion to the build plate.   I gave lance the design files and I'm going to see if there's a commercial printer that can do it for him.

 

I'm still looking for any other Z parts that we might want to replicate. Mostly I'm thinking parts that are hard to fine, NOS or NLA. Small plastic pieces.  Just let me know. 

 

Still thanks to LanceVance I'm going to be working on replicating the plastic ash tray door for the 240z. These often crack off from the framework, so maybe we can make stronger tabs.  I'll see when I get the part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So we had a new project. The 240Z door Dovetails. "Jesse OBrien" with drivenDAILY put me up to recreating the 240Z door Dovetails. 

 

post-4150-0-99474700-1378423358_thumb.gif

 

Since these were to be printed in ABS we made them a bit thicker and solid.  Here's a rendering.

 

post-4150-0-49087200-1378423185_thumb.jpg

 

We've printed these and are testing them to see how they hold up.  Concievably we could have them printed in Metal through Shapeways, which would be cheaper than buying the Billet reproductions from MSA, but still pretty costly. So I'm hoping these will hold up in ABS.  These Dovetails help align the latch on the 240Z. A little mod we made was to make them universal fit by adding the wedge on both bottom sides.  Let me know if you have any questions, or if there's other parts you might be looking to have recreated.

 

Phar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know this isn't an S30 part but on my 300zx, the upper window pin again broke yesterday. This allows air to whistle while driving and water to leak in with the rain. I'm tired of tearing the door apart to fix a cheaply made part. So, I started looking into what can be done to fix this issue.

 

Well the stock pin has a white plastic ring around a metal ball end, allowing for some movement. The plastic is what breaks. I looked at it and figures a 5/16" washer would almost fit over the ball portion, but would not fit past it. That would be enough to hold the pin in place, but I'm not certain if it required much more than that to keep it from rattling or wearing badly.

 

I got into PTC Creo and desiged a new round bottom portion which would allow the pin to slide in the track AND incorporate the 5/16" washer. I printed it up on my Mendel Prusa 3d printer at .1mm layer height, and a .5mm nozzle. at 80% infill. This created a very strong part with a little xacto persuasion I was able to fit the stock metal door pin and now I've got a new slider made from ABS which should work well. The phillips head is lightly recessed for grease to fill and I will glue the washer into place. This looks like a very good solution for a part that breaks all too often. If you end up needing one of these, let me know, I'll sell it cheap. picts below:

 

post-4150-0-47579600-1379627896_thumb.jpg

 

post-4150-0-04427700-1379627930_thumb.jpg

 

I'll add more picts when I get to install it probably this weekend.

 

Phar

Edited by Pharaohabq

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay I attempted to put in the remade window slider pin this afternoon. Unfortunately I had to mod it a bit for fit.  Turns out there's only about 7mm of space in the track. That means the washer on top has to have .5mm of plastic to hold it in in it's standard configuration.  that's not really going to work.  So the easiest method is to bevel the inside of the washer to about 45 degrees, this will allow for nearly 1.5 mm of plastic between the pin and the washer itself.  The stock plastic roller is 17mm wide, which is 1mm wider than the washer, so the outter rim will have to go, we will rely on a tight fit center ring and glue to hold the washer to the slider. The new part fit within the original dimensions, but the back side with the Phillips slot will need to be filed on the edges to prevent any binding, as that could break the window glass. If anyone is interested in this, I'll post more. 

 

Now back to the S30, I was looking at the 240Z hatch dovetails. The metal really isn't bad on mine, I kind of don't think these often go bad.  though I did note my drains on my series I hatch are missing, I'm going to have to find one and make a prototype of it so I can replace the missing ones I have.  I could make something that would functionally be the same but I'd like to see the originals just to be certain I know what I'm trying to make.  The little grilles over the drains are easy, I'll make those soon, and probably have them printed in stainless steel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad you're happy with the repair ring.  

 

These work really well with 240 Z's.  I'm still looking for more suggestions on other Z parts that we can model and print to replace parts that we really just can't get anymore.  I can print in about any color of ABS plastic, and I can have metal parts printed through shapeways.com or other outlets.  

 

I've got a decent model of the early 240Z side emblems, so I'll probably have that printed in aluminum. A pair should run about $100, Which is on par with used.  in ABS I can print a pair in ABS and paint them for ~ $30 bucks, so I haven't decided which direction I want to go, but likely I'll start with the ABS.

 

Is anyone needs any parts recreated, I'm still interested in helping.

 

Phar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a good dome light for my 280Z I'll pull it out and see what it might take to print it. The problem with the light is that it is slightly curved which might make it harder to print.  I can make it flat and it would be then easy to print but it wouldn't be an exact duplicate.   I'll start working on it and let you guys see what I come up with.   I've also been thinking about a replacement that could fit in the same location, but would have switches and 2 lights real similar to the Z32 dome light.  I'll work on an OEM replacement first though.  thanks for the suggestion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The curved profile of the dome light would likely have lots of striations if it were printed as is. The outer surface could probably be sanded but the inner surface would be more difficult. If you make the inside flat and sand/polish the outside I could see it working.

 

Another option to guarantee an exact replica would be to cast it. Oomoo makes silicon rubber and plastic casting materials and for smaller parts the minimum amount of materials you would need to purchase to get it done would be around $60. (which is a down side of you're only making a couple of that part)

I work in a model making department and we clean up printed parts all the time and then cast them once we achieve a desirable finish. The mold can then be reused many times.

 

Also, I've been wanting to find something for the Z that I could print out and then cast in aluminum. I've tried a few things from existing parts like emblems (I think I remember you commenting on my thread Pharaohabq) but unfortunately the aluminum shrinks when cooling and the mounting pins are then in improper positions. I think printing something that accounts for shrinkage would be a great thing to try so I might contact you when it gets a little warmer out.

 

Sorry for the long comment. I hadn't seen this thread in a while and got excited when I had something to say haha. 3D printing is awesome!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the striations are an issue. I may be able to get it printed on my buddies resin printer, Those work nice, but I'm not sure how well that would handle heat or wear. Also the resins are a lot more expensive than ABS.  I'm thinking if this is printer flat on the surface then filed down a bit on the edges it would be quite functional, though it won't be an exact duplicate.  I'm going to need to make a new printer that uses a better system for overhangs. If I had the overhang supports printed in PLA or some other water soluable it would make these parts much nicer.  Granted I could overprint and sand to cleanup, then perhaps the acetone bath to smooth the edges. 

 

How much shrinkage did you see with the aluminum?  Did you try the Aluminide, instead?  I was looking as shapeways to do metal printing for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×