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Ms3x install


madkaw

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So as I celebrated my tach finally working as i'm driving down the road I notice some pretty significant detonation. Never heard that before, so I drove back home nice and easy. When I hooked my lap top up the gauges showed some really high timing numbers, like 30 at idle. I looked at my timing tables that I just recently adjusted and the timing was right for the rpm. If I revved up the motor at all the gauge was showing 50+ degrees of advance.

So I figured I screwed up something when installing the MSD and proceeded to disconnect everything, still crazy timing numbers.

As I'm tugging on wires I notice my vacuum line for the MAP sensor is falling off. I pulled it the rest the way off and got a hand full of oil.

My MAP sensor is in the middle of my vacuum log. I also have the PCV at one end of the vacuum log. So i'm guess I have or had significant blow by and it accumulates at the lowest point, which down the vacuum log to my MS unit. I guess the MAP sensor is toast. I tried cleaning it, but no luck   

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

Killing some time waiting on my trans to get reworked(another drama), I have been working on coming up with a cam sensor so I can run sequential. Not a big priority, but  thought it would be a refinement for down the road. I had noticed looking at cam sensor set-ups on various engines that the jeep 4.0 L6 had the same timing cover/dizzy front mount. When I started looking into them deeper i thought i might be able to adapt. Ebay to the rescue! Complete new sensor assembly top to bottom was 24$ shipped, can't go wrong.

 

      

 

On the CAS sensor you made. Could you give a few more details? What year jeep did this come from? Did all you have to do is cut a grove in the shaft?

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  • 2 months later...

So after it seems years without a tach working, I finally got it going. Long story short, I pulled the tach and wired in the MSD 8920 right at the back of the tach at the harness. I cut the black/white and green/white at the plug, which connect the current loop of white wires, and wired one to 12v, and other to the red on the adapter and it worked. So happy to keep my original clean tach.

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  • 10 months later...

Okay guys-finally moving on to the fuel part of this install. Going with a N42 , 240sx TB and Bosch 26lb High impedance injectors. Just wiring up everything right now , no fuel pump hooked up yet. So my first question in this part of the install is settings in engine and sequential.  Trying to get the required fuel number correct but the injector staging choices confuse me. I am NOT sequential (yet), but it doesn't really ask you that. So am I alternating with 2 squirts per engine cycle?  

 

My goal is to test my injectors to see if I wired them correctly. Might need help figuring what MS to put in for testing.  

Edited by madkaw
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You're wiring them to the 3x injector drivers? They can fire batch or sequential.

 

I highly recommend testing the injectors to get thier actual flow and dead time (/voltage curve). Knowing this for your injectors will make it alot easier to tune.

 

Use the test modes in Tuner Studio

Edited by Sam280Z
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Got most everything wired up and in place. Most items are working but still need to place thermistor for the coolant. My coil brackets in the way of the OEM CHT. Thinking about drilling and tapping out coolant passage between 5&6. Its already marked for me on the mn47 head . Need to get connector for my cam sensor so I can get it installed. Probably run batch fire first to get engine running.

post-1083-0-26403600-1482805337_thumb.jpg

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I replaced one of the sensor on the bottom of the thermostat housing for coolant temp sensor. If you're out of space there, you could get a spacer in the upper radiator hose that has a bung. 

 

For an IAT sensor I welded a bung into the center of the bottom of the intake (between the #3 and #4 runners) and it seemed to work pretty well! 

 

EDIT: Looking at where you've got it located, I imagine you'll be all set. It might not react to the manifold heat soaking as quickly, but it should be ok!

Edited by Ben280
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For your CLT, it sounds like you are describing how the P90 CHTS are. If I remember right it is a cavity that does not touch coolant. (I have only been around a MN47 once when it was stripped down)

 

A few things, having the temp location will show hotter there at the back of the head vs the front of the block near the thermostat, so keep that in mind. I have mine hooked up in the thermostat housing, you can use the stock 280z housing if you have access to one, it has three sensors, and you can easily use the stock sensor and update the therm values or the GM one using a 3/8 pipe tap. 

 

Your IAT is fine, I personally like it right in-front of the throttle body. I have ran it in both places, no noticeable signs of heat soak to the point of hot starts behind though.

 

It has been fun watching your progress. 

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I have one of those bigger thermostats somewhere , but was trying to avoid using it with all its plumbing, but I might reconsider. I thought at the back of the head might be more accurate . I have a spare mn47 that I am cutting up so I might experiment with drilling it . Curious to see any possible casting issues in that spot as noted in other threads.

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Were you planning on running a cylinder head temp sensor versus a coolant temperature sensor (P90 CHT in head vs thermostat mounted?).

 

 

 

I asked this question previously, the outcome was that they will both do the job, but the cylinder head sensor gives a slower read out on temperature changed.

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Okay-still confused a bit on my sequential settings under required fuel. I am batch firing right now so squirts per engine cycle? Injector staging is simultaneous? Not sure why I can't get this straight, but don't think it is straight forward in tuner studio. 

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The number of squirts and the alt/sim settings are ignored under semi/ full sequential modes, but the req fuel is used and needs to be set correctly. If you are using full sequential you need to set things as 2 squirts/alt (or 1 squirt/sim) for re fuel to be correct. If you are using semi-sequential you need to set it to 4 squirts/alt (or 2 squirts/sim). These settings give the correct number of squirts per cycle per injector so that req fuel is scaled correctly.

 

It's easier to get it started in semi mode first since you don't need to worry about cam timing. Then switch on full seq. 

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Let me finalize my design complete with wires before I try and sell anything.

What you see here is my 3rd version already.

Next will be deciding how and where I am going to run my harness(s) thru the firewall. What have some of you guys done?

Why not put the 3X in the engine room? Isn't it weather proof?

 

Also, why do I see spark plug leads in your picture of your LS coils? Is this a transition pic?

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