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socorob

1978 280z GTO LS1 T56 TTT

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RebekahsZ    106

SunnyZ posted some pics somewhere. His loop bolts to the tranny crossmember. Mine is shaped like a D and is welded to the passenger side of the tunnel and would be really hard to photo without a lift to get the car up really high (can't do it right now). The 240z tunnel is really narrow any the 280z has a lot more room. You will probably need to put something of your own design together because there isn't really a standard way to do it. Luckily my driveshaft broke while at the starting line so it stopped spinning pretty much immediately. The loop made it easy for me to be towed off the startingbline and winched up on my trailer. I think it would have still done some damage had it broken at speed. I guess what I'm saying is that my design is not something that I'm totally proud of. For NHRA it needs to be 2" wide and 1/4" thick and should be located within 6" of the front u-joint. It would be cool to have a safety loop for the rear end of the driveshaft too but it isn't required.

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socorob    4

Yeah I think they are more concerned about you catapulting yourself. I saw truck break the front u joint at a sand drag when I was a kid and it almost went back over front when the driveshaft speared into the ground.

 

 

I had the same problem with the water temp sender I saw a few other people had in some old posts where the sending unit wouldn't fit into the JCI adapter. I just centered it up in a drill press and used a 9/16 bit to drill it down. I stopped about 1/8 from going all the way through to leave a lip for the wider part of the sending unit to contact/ seal against. I put a little WOG on the threads just to be sure it doesn't leak

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socorob    4

Got me a big wiring diagram and started on wiring and combining harnesses. I'm really thinking about going with vintage air and ditching the datsun stuff. Found out JTR headers hit JCI oil temp sender placement so I put the stock plate back on and removed the LS1 oil pressure sensor from behind the intake, drilled it out with 21/64 bit and tapped it with a 1/8 NPT pipe thread. Used a 45 degree adapter from the GM plug to Datsun sending unit. Anyone using this combo should definitely do this BEFORE the engine is in the car. It was almost impossible to tighten the 45 fitting so its pointed where it needs to be with the engine in the car.

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Domzs    9

I posted a thread on how to mod OE temp ( if you are using fact. gauge ) and install it in the right cylinder head . You can get an oil press. sender adapter from Autometer or Speedway .

Edited by Domzs

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EastTnZ    1

I agree with the oil pressure sender placement but you don't have to drill it out. Another option is to buy the adapter from autometer (2268) and then get a 45 and my aftermarket oil pressure gauge threaded in perfectly. I noticed my factory opsu was broken after I installed the motor and thought I was in trouble. No drilling or tapping! :)

Edited by EastTnZ

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socorob    4

I meant to type oil pressure sender. Sorry about that. I drilled out the gm pressure sender. I'm having a problem with the alternator bracket idler relocation adapter. It's too small for the idler pulley and napa says its an odd size and they can't get a bearing that size. I guess it was machined wrong from JCI. I will have to wait until they reopen after the holidays to see if I can get a proper sized replacement. Also not very impressed with the Chinese AC compressor. I really hope a sanden will bolt in the same place with the same fittings if this one fails.

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socorob    4

Today I was able to make some decent progress after not touching the car all week. I put the 300zx hubs with longer studs on with Toyota calipers, hawk pads and slotted rotors. To use these hubs you need the spacer for the rotor. I used 86 hubs and slotted rotors. I used 300zx outer bearings, 280z inner bearings and 300zx wheel seals. I also drilled all the spot welds out of the slam panel on the hatch and removed it and did a small rust patch under it. Tomorrow I'll try to put the new one in. I think I will try to use body panel glue on it since its not structural and I think that will help keep water from being able to get under it again. Next I'm thinking about cleaning up the inside and using the rest of the lizard skin on it.

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socorob    4

Tried out the body panel adhesive today. I haven't used this stuff before but it seems like an easy thing to do for non structural stuff. I used it to glue on my replacement slam panel. It's easy to go crazy with it. I ended up cutting circles out of metal a little larger than all the holes in the floor pan and gluing them over. Seems an easy way to get rid of all the holes.

Edited by socorob

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socorob    4

http://www.refinishsystems.com/product/258-56/3MPanelBondingAdhesive08115

 

I think it was this. The body shop across the parking lot loaned me a tube that had a little left. Its actually 2 tubes side by side. One tube is bigger than the other. It takes a special caulking gun for it. My friend said the other guy glued 2 pieces of metal together with it, let it sit for 2 days and tried to pull it apart with the frame machine. He said the metal ripped apart, the glued pieces didn't budge.

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socorob    4

Today was installing a vintage air gen II compac into the 1978 Datsun 280z. It's a tight fit but I managed to get it to fit without interfering with anything on the dash. To do that I had to install it slightly off center towards the drivers side, maybe 1", and when viewed from above the drivers side is about 1/2" or so more forward that the passenger side. Brackets weren't too bad to figure out. What sucked was climbing in and out of the car dozens of times to cut, measure, bend.....

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socorob    4

Hopefully I have this in for its final resting place. Tired of taking the dash and evaporator in and out to make sure nothing will interfere. Got to this point today and everything tightened all the way. This baby better be cold!

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