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socorob

1978 280z GTO LS1 T56 TTT

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RebekahsZ    106

Next winter I'm gonna be picking some brains about this kit. I need room for a forward cross bar/knee bar on my mini-cage. Looks like this kit should open up a space behind the dash between the location of the stick heater control levers/cables and the heater itself. Very interested in where you place the controls. Watching and learning from you. Litman is using the same system and is a little ahead of you if you run into any issues he may be able to help. Questions: how much should I budget for this system start to finish? I see where the water hoses connect-how easy will those to service while the dash is in? I guess that question applies to control valves, etc too. Is this thing gonna require dash removal everytime it needs tweaking? Haha-my spell check tried to make that twerking!.

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socorob    4

I'm putting the controls in the stock place. They only stick back into the dash about 2 inches I guess. If you go with the mini like Mikey pictured above, you could push the right side of the unit forward another inch or so maybe. I'm in the gulf south so I wanted biggest I could fit. Where do you plan to run your knee bar? Give me a measurement and next time I have to put the dash back in I could try to get you some pictures of that area.

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RebekahsZ    106

Yeah-I'm not going to try to do A/C so I may do a super small heater unit only. It really just need defroster for rainy race days. Heat on the feet is a bonus. My knee bar will most likely run under the steering column, thru the lower dash in the heater control/radio area, under the glovebox. It may have a rise to get over the stereo area or perhaps I might notch the tranny tunnel to get it under the radio-not sure yet. I'm trying to have it all: radio, heat, a roll cage with no overhead bars other than the main hoop behind the driver. Purpose of the forward section is to allow higher placement of a Petty bar and forward attachment of a right side interior window net/arm restraint. Lots to work out and deconflict.

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NgoZ    2

Mine is slowly starting to form, I received almost everything I need, I just need to find the time now. My wedding is in a few months so been helping the misses with that, and I don't mention car stuff too much or she gives me that look. Rob let me know if you need a hand with something, always happy to help on the weekend.

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socorob    4

I can't bring myself to cut my perfectly good AC panel to mount the knobs. I am hoping I can get some sandwich action going on with a piece of metal wrapped around the back and a piece of ABS wedging in from the front, with the threaded knobs applying the squeeze to it.

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socorob    4

I still keep looking at my almost perfect fenders and am so on the fence about it. I think overfenders look good from a distance but crap up close. If the were just a little longer and began and ended at body lines i would be a little better with them. Supposedly the Japanese ones fit better but it looks like they like to run 15 inch wheels that are stretched. My worry about thise is that you would have to slide them up for the larger tires  and then they wouldn't start where I want them to. if these 245s dont hit I'm not cutting. If they do hit then I'll get out the cut off wheel and they will have to say hello to my little friend.

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skerry    1

I can't bring myself to cut my perfectly good AC panel to mount the knobs. I am hoping I can get some sandwich action going on with a piece of metal wrapped around the back and a piece of ABS wedging in from the front, with the threaded knobs applying the squeeze to it.

 

I have a busted up panel that I'll trade for your good one if that will make it easier on you. lol 

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socorob    4

Here's how I decided to mount speedhut gauges into the Datsun Z. I used a 4" PVC sewer cap from Ace hardware since it was flat on the end. I just cut a hole with a hole saw and grinded the knobs off the lock ring and it fit tight inside the cap. The cap is only about 1/16 smaller than the gauge pod so it all fit together easily. The hole saw was about 1/8" larger than the gauge, but since the locking ring with the nubs grinded off is exactly the same size as the inside of the cap, that keeps it centered.

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Edited by socorob

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Domzs    9

Here's how I decided to mount speedhut gauges into the Datsun Z. I used a 4" sewer cap from Ace hardware since it was flat on the end. I just cut a hole with a hole saw and grinded the knobs off the lock ring and it fit tight inside the cap. The cap is only about 1/16 smaller than the gauge pod so it all fit together easily.

Looking good . Here's an easier method and cheaper .  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112178-another-method-to-install-speedhut-gauge/

Edited by Domzs

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socorob    4

I already had 1 cap laying on my table in the garage when I was taking the old gauges apart and thought that looks about the right size. Happy accident. I had to go buy one more cap, borrowed the right size hole saw, so this project cost me $2.86.I drilled small holes in the sides of the cap and used the 4 screws that held the original one in to screw this in the same way.

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archull    0

Man, surprised at how many Louisiana boys are on here.   Checking in from Lafayette, however my brother in law lives in New Orleans like most of you and he finished up his 280zx ls swap project awhile back.   My friend and I are about to start working on a pair of 280z LS3 swapped cars for street/track use. 

 

Nice progress on your build.   Good luck on getting everything buttoned up, I may poke in from time to time to pick your brain on an issue when we run into one.

 

Quick question, were you satisfied with the JCI swap parts?   I was originally planning to use their mounts but I have been hearing good things about the Hawk Gen Three mounts they are just starting to offer.  If you were to do it over again, would you use the same parts and venders?

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socorob    4

I would use the mounts again, but not the radiator hoses or AC stuff. Maybe just the AC bracket and compressor to keep from having to make your own mounts, but I would get the hoses,drier, and the rest of the AC system from vintage Air. I wasn't happy that he uses an AC compressor that's made in China. I'm hoping a sanden will bolt into the same place when this one fails. The JTR headers fit well. I am mostly pleased with everything I used so far.

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socorob    4

I wish! I have to finish up the fuel system, all of the exhaust, all wiring , put body panels back on, interior back in, and paint. My goal is to be able to at least start it by July1. Plus we have a crawfish boil to go to this weekend.

Edited by socorob

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Phantom    35

I would use the mounts again, but not the radiator hoses or AC stuff. Maybe just the AC bracket and compressor to keep from having to make your own mounts, but I would get the hoses,drier, and the rest of the AC system from vintage Air. I wasn't happy that he uses an AC compressor that's made in China. I'm hoping a sanden will bolt into the same place when this one fails. The JTR headers fit well. I am mostly pleased with everything I used so far.

FWIW - Here is a photo of the AC compressor that JCI installed in my car in 2004. It is still working great. Hope it helps. Here's a link to a website that sells them. http://www.techchoiceparts.com/inventory

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Edited by Phantom

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