slownrusty Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) Well gang, back working on my ZXT after a very long hiatus and I guess the punishment for neglecting the old girl was received this weekend. For the most working on this car has been a delight and well within my abilities but this weekend I got my royal a $ $ handed to me . I dropped the entire rear sub frame, diff, axles, brakes and control arms to freshen everything up and install a Z31 LSD. Dropping the rear sub frame with everything connected was cake compared to removing the inner control arm metal sleeves in preparation to install a set of Poly Urethane bushings. i am writing this thread to serve as a guideline to anyone who will be attempting this major ordeal. Firstly you have to remove these sleeves to install the new Poly Urethane bushings, otherwise the new schmancy bushings will not fit. The metal sleeves are pressed into the control arms and after 30 years of harmony in the car have assumed a matrimonial union with the control arm. Secondly you CANNOT use a hydraulic press to remove these sleeves, the hydraulic press will actually bend the control arm and distort them and completely screw up your car. Thirdly you cannot use a puller or socket and a BF hammer either. The *ONLY* way to remove these PITA things is to carefully and surgically cut them out in pieces. You will need these basic tools: 1) A Sawzall with a good metal blade 2) Two chisels 3) 5 -7 lb sledge MC Hammer 4) MAP gas 5) Some PB Blaster 6) 23mm socket 7) Dremel with a cutting wheel Here is the hell hath no fury metal sleeve that you have to dance with, in the picture below I have started making one longitudinal slice with my Sawzall Then I made four longitudinal slices with my Sawzall, being ULTRA careful to not cut the control arm! Afterwards using a Dremel I made one careful circumferential inner cut perpendicular to the Sawzall cuts: Afterwards brute force with a Chisel and Sledge being careful to not damage the inner side of the control arm and remove the inner sleeve in pieces: First inner piece removed below: Four inner pieces removed below (this took almost 30 minutes to get to this point!) Do the same on the opposing side and after remove the other side in four pieces, then spray PB Blaster and let it soak down behind the remaining section of inner sleeve which will be in the middle of the control arm and then heat the crap out of it with the MAP gas, after that you can take a 23mm socket and your handiest of dandiest Sledge MC Hammer and whack away until this mid section of sleeve pops out. It took me about 8-10 hours to remove just these sleeves!!! And very frustrating....so hope this helps y'all. Grrr...I hate these: Ready to be powder coated and then new Urethane bushings pressed in: Like so: My weekend: All disassembled ready for new bushings, powder coat and new LSD! Cheers - Yasin Edited September 9, 2013 by slownrusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 What are you doing about the subframe bushing? I'd suggest to go solid, since it's fairly easy if you have a good machinist, or even know someone with a lathe. When I did this, I dropped as much as I could off at my friends garage. For $200 he pushed out both, subframe bushing, turned down s13 solid bushings, and got the control arm bushings out. He then brought the parts across the street to a motorcycle shop that powder coated in house, got them coated and installed the new bushings, with zerk fittings in the control arms to make greasing a piece of cake. Took like 2-3 weeks total though. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 I already have a set of solid stainless subframe bushings from the very cool FricFrac. For $200 you got a sweet deal! Wow. Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 What are you doing about the subframe bushing? I'd suggest to go solid, since it's fairly easy if you have a good machinist, or even know someone with a lathe. When I did this, I dropped as much as I could off at my friends garage. For $200 he pushed out both, subframe bushing, turned down s13 solid bushings, and got the control arm bushings out. He then brought the parts across the street to a motorcycle shop that powder coated in house, got them coated and installed the new bushings, with zerk fittings in the control arms to make greasing a piece of cake. Took like 2-3 weeks total though. . Don't know what it's like , ride quality , with solid subframe bushings . I had to make mine solid due to subframe movement during launch . It moved about an inch with good bushings . Rear tires were rubbing the front of rear fenders . With bushings in place , I welded 2 large washers , 1 on top and 1 on bottom , on each side . Eliminated subframe movement but it rides horrible , you can feel the vibration . Rather have urethane bushings . Soon , it'll get a solid axle conversion . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCchris Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Good job Yasin! This project is strangely familiar and I don't own a 280ZX. I do however have similar luck. If you reflect just a bit, I think the source of your frustrations can be linked to your hammer. The handle is too short! Not enough leverage. The head seems plenty ample though. chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Thanks Chris...but but but..its my "good luck" Hammer..laughing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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