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Steering rack; new or refurbish?


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I personally would not spend that kind of money. You can disassemble your rack and if it isn't worn bad, clean out all the gunk and replace with fresh grease. Adjust per the Service Manual and add new boots, little paint and you are good to go!

chris

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I personally would not spend that kind of money. You can disassemble your rack and if it isn't worn bad, clean out all the gunk and replace with fresh grease. Adjust per the Service Manual and add new boots, little paint and you are good to go!

chris

Thanks. I will look at the manual and see if it's something that I can handle.

 

Does anyone know if the new ones will have the same specs as original?

Edited by Atozone Tonine
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If you change from 240 Rack/Crossmember to the later 280Z Rack/Crossmember you get a shorter lock-to-lock ratio. Short steering knuckles will quicken steering inputs as well. So will a smaller diameter steering wheel (less circumferential travel for same relative input angle generated.)

 

Each step increases steering effort.

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Looks really don't mean much. I cleaned and regreased mine, along with FSM adjustments and it was beautiful.

 

Short of banging curbs or African Safari Rally imitation driving, I I think they're a pretty durable unit!

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If you change from 240 Rack/Crossmember to the later 280Z Rack/Crossmember you get a shorter lock-to-lock ratio. Short steering knuckles will quicken steering inputs as well. So will a smaller diameter steering wheel (less circumferential travel for same relative input angle generated.)

Each step increases steering effort.

New news to me.

 

Been wanting to do this same job.

Good timing.

Tj

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Yeah, that was the BSP mod to do for quicker steering. Take a look at R&T and you will see one is 3 turns lock to lock, the other is 2.5 or something like that....

 

For me, it was a function of having a 240 with a K-Member that was nearly ripped off during a theft joyride, and having a 280Z2+2 just sitting there taking up space.... talk about "good timing" right?

 

You need to change that crossmember when changing the racks. While you have it out, put in your engine link to limit engine torqueover on accel-decel and keep soft mounts. I did mine with the car in the air on 4 jackstands, and a 5th under the tranny bellhousing holding up the engine while I dropped the K-Member and in fact, the whole front suspension!

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You need to change that crossmember when changing the racks. While you have it out, put in your engine link to limit engine torqueover on accel-decel and keep soft mounts. I did mine with the car in the air on 4 jackstands, and a 5th under the tranny bellhousing holding up the engine while I dropped the K-Member and in fact, the whole front suspension!

 

Engine link? What is that?

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I'm leaning towards refurbishing my own steering rack.

 

There is a plastic cap next to the dust boot cover inthe passenger side. I have seen this refered to as a breather cap.

Mine is In bad shape and I don't want to remove it without a replacement ready.

Is this a plug? Or is it a cover for a grease nipple?

If there is no grease nipple there, can I just screw one in? (If so, what size ?)

I have read in other forums that there is a screw under the dust cover boot, that you can replace with a grease nipple temporarily.

Is this an M7x 1.0, or 0.9? I have seen both sizes

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I don't think the nipple size matters so long as you match the threads, A zerk fitting is pretty standard, but best to replace the bellows while you have the rack out. If you take out the plug you can always screw it back in place.  Autozone/Napa etc should sell all the Fittings you need.

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