BlackdogNY Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 It is nice to see your garage above polar temps, so we can assume you were snowblowing outside and not a path around the car. Anyway, not being a turbo expert but have done a fair share of research for my build and have seen some common themes. First is, the bigger is better theory on DPs. Helps build boost earlier. If you don't drive on the street, a simple fender exit out front is very popular/simple. As far as the wastegate plumbing, if it goes in the DP it should be as far back as possible. If the noise is a problem I have seen a few builds with a muffler on that part if the exhaust. There are a TON of technical reasons for both of these. If you care to read I have found a lot of info on various turbo forums. Yellow Bullet is a good one. Lots of drag racers with LS turbo power. I am sure a turbo expert here will chime in if the above info is incorrect. Good luck and start shooting flames. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geno51 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 It is nice to see your garage above polar temps, so we can assume you were snowblowing outside and not a path around the car. Anyway, not being a turbo expert but have done a fair share of research for my build and have seen some common themes. First is, the bigger is better theory on DPs. Helps build boost earlier. If you don't drive on the street, a simple fender exit out front is very popular/simple. As far as the wastegate plumbing, if it goes in the DP it should be as far back as possible. If the noise is a problem I have seen a few builds with a muffler on that part if the exhaust. There are a TON of technical reasons for both of these. If you care to read I have found a lot of info on various turbo forums. Yellow Bullet is a good one. Lots of drag racers with LS turbo power. I am sure a turbo expert here will chime in if the above info is incorrect. Good luck and start shooting flames. I am going with borg Warner EFR turbo on my build at it has the waist gate and bovs built in yes the turbos are a bit more but not having to buy the other items and or do plumbing for them makes up for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Wastegate recirculation Frame rails capped - need cleaned up. Pass side scalloped for lower hose clearance (someone didn't leave enough clearance in their radiator measurements) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) Update: A friend of mine bent me up a shroud for my radiator, and did an awesome job. I mounted it and trimmed the taurus fan to fit. Fits PERFECTLY over the 15" core with a little trimming. Even has a lip on the shroud already. Radiator in its final resting place. A little better shot of the upper mounts Also got about half the cold side pipe fit last night, trying to wrangle the intercooler and build a bracket for it. My quality of work started to suffer, so I decided it was (long overdue) time to clean the garage. Edited February 18, 2014 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snailed Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Looks like a fun project. I bet that turbo will give a nice meaty torque curve on that engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 DP wrapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Cold side mostly done. Still need to finish the upper intercooler mounts. Where the blue coupler is will be welded. BOV yet to be placed. Also went down the rabbit hole on replacing the "frame rails". 64 spot welds and 2# of rust scale later..... I got one off. You can see they were a bit crispy. This is what prompted this whole maneuver. This is where the transmission mount was attached. It was literally ripping the frame... And also decided to replace the swiss cheese passenger's floor pan. Here's a shot of the 2x2 1/8" tubing mocked up. I cut the tunnel side about 3/4" shy of the edge of the new rail, and used a hammer and dolly to flatten it out so I'd have a "shelf" to weld the new frame to. I also will be addressing the area below the battery box on the firewall. You can see it here as the gap between the two large yellow portions of the inner fender. ALSO got out the air hammer and took all the 36 year old insulation off the floor to see what else was hiding. Luckily the Driver's floor pan is in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Send a friend a sketch and get this 5 minutes later..... WIN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Lookin good!! Good thing you found the weak rail... body will need the extra structure anyway with what you have in store for it!! BTW, nice job on the recirc... Personally, I like the wastegate vented to atmosphere...have had it that way on all of my turbo builds. It just sounds extra mean and nasty when WOT mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Finished fitting one of the frame rails and welded it together. I'll be burning it in later this week after I get the floor prepped to weld. Pictures are a little hazy.... didn't let the smoke clear first! Looking at the rail front to rear. Scalloped the front to meet up nicely with the TC Rod bucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PLATA Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 This beast will have strong bones and a screaming mill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Well in rust's true form, the more you look - the more you find. Went down the rabbit hole and cut out all the bad spots on the passenger's side. Also got the passenger's side rail all welded in, save the floor pans. Thats all for now. Hope to have the floor pan in and the driver's side rail completed by the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Ouch!!! And all this time, I thought your machine was rust-free. I think carpet is the devil: no carpet=no rust. Get some sleep every now and then-is that cold any better? You sounded like crap the other day. My car is trapped in the roll bar wasteland. I don't think the tubing has arrived yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Ouch!!! And all this time, I thought your machine was rust-free. I think carpet is the devil: no carpet=no rust. Get some sleep every now and then-is that cold any better? You sounded like crap the other day. My car is trapped in the roll bar wasteland. I don't think the tubing has arrived yet. Yeah, unfortunately it suffered from typical Z rust. The cold is nearly gone - thanks for asking. Pretty sure thats all the rust (external) though - at least that I know of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) What are you doing for your turbo mount? Edited March 1, 2014 by mattd428 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 What are you doing for your turbo mount? Nothing other than the crossover at the moment. Turbo weighs in at 17#, so not much of a big boy. I might get frisky and make a brace, but there's been much success in the industry with larger turbos mounted just the same as mine is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Didn't quite get everything done I'd hoped. Life gets in the way, ya know? Here's the driver's side frame rail before I removed it. Not nearly as bad as the other one, but still needs upgraded Shot of the driver's rail removed, looking to the passenger's side Here is how I drew the cut line.... First cut: Made a second cut 1/2" inboard to give me an edge to weld. Used a hammer and dolly to flatten out the trans tunnel side and made a few relief cuts. You can see where I peeled back the floor at the tie-in point. Hope to bend that back down and close the floor when done. Test fit RUST cut out..... Battery tray and other rust removed. Looking a little bare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 It is going to be great to have some chassis that is substantial enough to put a jackstand under. I will be just "armor"-ing the unibody with heavy scab patches at the junction of the firewall, footbox and rocker for a front lift point. Already plated over and under the rear seatbelt recesses for a jacking point in the rear. These cars really are tin cans! Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Any true race car builder I have talked to says a turbo mount is essential if you want it to last. Hope it holds up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Driver's rail in. Still need to finish some welding, and attach the floor to the rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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