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2jzgte swap

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I bought a 72 240z with 43,000 original miles about a month ago with a salvage

I plan on doin a 2jzgte swap Im 20 but I have a lot of mechanical skill I do all and everythang myself i can weld fab and do electrical so I know that will cut done on cost

I know the cost of the motor and trans and the mounts but what I need to know is what else will I need to buy like intercooler ecu and I want to switch to single turbo but where can I get these parts and how much will they cost and I plan on buyin parts over the next year to do the swap until then I'll drive the l24 with the auto and I know why buy an auto but whatever I bought it for 1500 and it runs good with almost no rust other than next to the hatch were I will fix

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Driftmotion.com has a ton of helpful things you can buy.  Also if you plan on moving away from the stock ECU there are plenty of standalone options. I just purchased a MS3 Pro.  I will let you know how well it runs the motor once I get it put together. Other than that the search function works really good and should be able to answer 99.9% of your questions.

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Thanks devil280z for the info and that would be cool to hear how it runs with it

How long did it take to do the swap and did you have to modify the body to fit the motor and trans and intercooler also did you buy a wirin harness already made to plug into he z or did you make one for it?

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I haven't put the motor in yet. Im deployed to Afghanistan right now but when I get home in a few weeks I will have mostly everything to get it put it in.  All of your questions are covered in pretty much every build post in the Toyota forum.  Just spend a few days reading over and looking at pictures of people's builds.  It should answer all your questions.

 

As for the wire harness I sent mine to Tweaked performance and they are making me a custom brand new harness specific to my build.

I will have a ton more pictures and videos up in the next month when I get back to work on mine.  Good luck

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Welcome,

 

Motor

Trans

Motor mounts

Trans mounts

Custom driveshaft

Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold

Aftermarket Turbo

Exhaust

Uprated clutch/pressure plate

Bigger intercooler

Intercooler piping kit

BOV

Waste gate

Bigger injectors

Higher volume and pressure fuel pump

Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings)

Bigger fuel lines

Rising rate fuel pressure regulator

Fuel filter

ECU of some sort, I'm with devil on that, MS will be your best bet price wise, most people who run 2jzs tend to spend a little more for brand name as in the overall price it is fairly negligible

Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer)

Electric fan w/shroud

 

On top of which you will have to add for the manual conversion:

Manual pedal box

Clutch slave cylinder

Clutch line

 

And seeing as how you want to run a single turbo, which people usually do after maxing out twins so ~450hp:

Upgraded axles, I.E. CV axles

Upgraded diff with lsd

Wider tires and rims

Flares, unless you are running slicks, or don't want the wider tires and rims for the grip

Better brakes, or at the minimum very fresh stock setup

Better suspension

 

And that is with the assumption you have a very very very well sorted starting platform, any weakness will definitely be exposed when you put 400 or more hp to it (which you will with a single turbo setup).

 

I am at 7k for a 7mgte almost finished. With a bigger turbo, injector, and manifold, I would probably be closer to the 10k mark. Throw on top of that a 2jzgte costs 5k or more the last time I checked my importer (compared to the 2k for that I paid for my setup), a budget of 15k should be a good solid number to start. That's also without any work done to the motor or transmission. If memory serves, the 72 model has the bolt through style transmission cross member which will have to be removed and the tunnel will have to be reinforced, compared to the 70-71 captive nut style. The motor fits into the engine bay pretty well (there is a 2jz sitting in the same garage as my car that I've checked dimensions on). Depending on how you place the turbo you have have to clearance the hood. Depending on the size of your intercooler you will have to make room in the radiator support.

Edited by seattlejester
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Trust me it adds up really fast!  Im  in the middle of my swap and finding that im quickly running out of money to fund it. Its also not the swap that costs that much, its the supporting mods that get expensive.  You cant throw a motor that has more than double the power and expect the car not to tear its self apart.  So yes you are correct, you can do the swap for around or under 7k but it gets expensive when you do it right (brakes, tires, axels, diff, suspension, and also a colostomy bag for the first time you drive it!! lol)

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Agreed, you could potentially phsyically get the motor in the car for about 7k (granted when I was shopping around for a 2jzgte and getrag 6-speed, I had trouble finding any for under 5k-6k), but you would be pretty far from a fully functioning vehicle. Let alone one with a single turbo conversion and aftermarket engine control as OP requested. I think 15k would be a good number to keep in mind, that will let him buy parts as he needs without having to hunt for deals.

 

I am curious though, how did you get 7k as a value? Do you have a toyota swapped Z? It would be nice to see another build post in this section of the forum.

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Ah I am not talking with the v160 6 speed, I am talking with either a r154 or w58 which will bring the price down at least 2 grand. I do not have a JZ powered Z currently, but owned a supra and am still very active in the supra community so I know my way around the JZ engine very well. I have copy and pasted your list and will make my changes/comments in bold. Obviously this is my personal opinion and being pretty connected in the supra community my prices may be a little lower than normal. If you'd like me to explain anything more I would be more than happy to.

 

Motor VVTI 2jzgte with all electronics(motor only)-$1600 with all electronics

Trans W58 from NA supra- $250

Motor mounts/subframe-Custom built $200 for materials, this is very dependent on fab skill

Trans mounts- Again this can be custom or be bought -$100

Custom driveshaft-$300

Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold-$200

Aftermarket Turbo-$500

Exhaust-$250

Upgraded clutch/pressure plate $200

Bigger intercooler $150

Intercooler piping kit $120

BOV $150

Waste gate $150

Bigger injectors-$400

Higher volume and pressure fuel pump $150

Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings) $300

Bigger fuel lines $150

Rising rate fuel pressure regulator $125

Fuel filter $25

ECU of some sort $500

Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) $400

Electric fan w/shroud $100

 

$6320

 

Obviously there will be little stuff all over that will need to be bought so that is why I found that $7000 is the prime number. Also this is with a single turbo conversion, if you were to keep the stock twins you would not have to buy the turbo/manifold, injectors, FPR or the ECU so the cost would be cut down even more. I can write details on each part(what, where, why) if anyone wants that as well.

 

-Andrew

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Ah, with the w58 that substantially cuts down on costs, granted I feel the w58 would be inadequate for sports such as drag racing or anything else that might shock load the tranny.

 

My list with prices (on the higher side since I am not immersed in the supra community)

 

Motor $2500 2jzgte from importer compression checked

Trans $1000 for R154, $5000 for V160

Motor mounts $200 agreed, very dependent on your metal source and your fab skill, I did mine for ~$40 as I have a metal supplier and welding equipment handy

Trans mounts $100 same as above, can be done with just a straight bar for 10$, but a decent fabbed one will take a few hours and ~30$ in steel

Custom driveshaft $300 right on the money on this one, exactly what I paid

Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold $350-400, I am having trouble finding non ebay ones for less than that, I've had a few manifolds crack so I tend to stay away from ebay brands, especially if it's holding up a big turbo.

Aftermarket Turbo $500-1500, a new holset or a new turbonetics T61 was what I was thinking, some money could be saved here by buying used.

Exhaust $400, for downpipe and flanged pipes all the way down, $250 is what the local shop charges for just a straight 1 piece exhaust.

Uprated clutch/pressure plate $500-600 for an ACT clutch that can hold projected power levels

Bigger intercooler $150 agreed, no need to dump money on here

Intercooler piping kit $120 agreed, should be adequate for all the bends

BOV $150-300 used vs new

Waste gate $150-300 used vs new

Bigger injectors $400 

Higher volume and pressure fuel pump $150-300, depending on how many you will have to run to meet fuel demands

Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings) $200 Summit fuel cell

Bigger fuel lines $200 I did all AN front to back, could definitely save by using aluminum tubing

Rising rate fuel pressure regulator $125 about what I paid for my AEM unit

Fuel filter $25

ECU of some sort $750 for my bare bones MS2 setup with sensors pre assembled with upgraded drivers

Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) $400-1000, depends on how you setup speedo, a gps gauge can run 400 by itself

Electric fan w/shroud and radiator $350

 

On top of which you will have to add for the manual conversion:

Manual pedal box JY

Clutch slave cylinder JY

Clutch line JY 

Probably less than 100 to have it pulled and shipped to you if you can't find anyone local.

 

And seeing as how you want to run a single turbo, which people usually do after maxing out twins so ~450hp:

Upgraded axles, I.E. CV axles $900 from wolf creek, a few alternative options out there

Upgraded diff with lsd $1000 for a subaru r180 with conversion axles or an R200 with lsd from a later model z31

Wider tires and rims $1500 really variable here

Flares, unless you are running slicks, or don't want the wider tires and rims for the grip $200

Better brakes $1000 rear disk, toyota fronts, new rotors, new pads, new lines, new master, new booster. Or new pads and shoes all around with new lines and fresh masters ~300

Better suspension $800 at the minimum (sway bars, strut cartridges, springs, ball joints, tie rods new bolts, poly kit, etc), can drop an easy $5000 or more here for adjustable everything.

 

If the car is salvaged, definitely fix whatever caused that title especially if it's structural. With that much power, chassis stiffening should be very much considered. I will say $1000-3000 here for a front chassis brace of some sort and some serious sub frame connectors, new floors and a roll bar would not be a bad thing to consider either.

 

Total for the lower end of the spectrum I'm at 15,300 at the higher end over 20,000

 

With that said, I agree if you shop around/haggle/use contacts you could attack that number a bit, I know the guy who is helping with mine picked up his intact 2jz-ge motor for less than 200$ at a salvage yard, but 15k is not a bad number to keep in mind, it is daunting thinking of pouring more than 10 times the worth of the car into it, but better to quote high and save, then the other way around.

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Seattlejester is right on the money, no pun intended haha. Things are going to cost much more than expected, And cutting corners will not do anything other than cost more money..$15k for a 2jz-GTE swap is very reasonable, Im at roughly $7k for a 7m-gte swap with stock turbo, Haltch S500, and I did all the work myself other than tuning.

 

Also keep in mind that once you go over roughly 350hp you really need to start to stiffen and strengthen the body or it will bet ripped apart over time, and that will grow exponentially with more power, even with my 100% stock Z i could feel the car flex a lot when I would really push it through corners.

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my build as follows its a 280zx (1983) made a swap since my old engine died.. :(

Motor:  2JZ vvti ($1400)

Trans:  R154 5 speed manual( $550)

Motor mounts: custom ($100)

Trans mounts: custom ($150)

Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold : $190

Aftermarket Turbo: T70 ($550)

Exhaust: $320 

Uprated clutch/pressure plate: TRD single plate clutch ($480)

Bigger intercooler: Greddy 4" ($245)

Intercooler piping kit: ^ came with the above

BOV: none 

Waste gate: HKS ($130)

Stock injectors

Higher volume and pressure fuel pump: Bosch fuel pump x2 ($120x2 = $240)

280 zx fuel tank 

280 zx fuel lines

Rising rate fuel pressure regulator: kinda went with the cheapest one in the store i go to Mines fuel regulator ($50)

Fuel filter: no idea :P

stock 2jz ECU 

Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) : $400 (boost and tachometer only )

ARC radiator (came with the 280zx when i got it ) 

 

total cost : $4805

 

It still has fuel cutting issues .. so im working on that atm, but I never thought of strengthening the cars body, how would that be done? as well as which diff. would be good to use? i was thinking of a TRD LSD , would it fit or..?

 

as well im currently sorting the electricity so.. the electrician estimated $410

 

 

p.s. I'm very new to this so, if im being a noob im sorry, cause i couldnt find a lot of thorough posts so i'm still trying to get the gist of all this.

Thanks :D

Edited by the_lettuce

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Motor ($180 2jz-ge at junk yard)


Trans ($1200 with a 7mgte, sold the motor)


Motor mounts (haven't done yet)


Trans mounts (haven't done yet)


Custom driveshaft (~$200 I think is what i spent)


Aftermarket single turbo exhaust manifold ($230 in parts from ace stainless online)


Aftermarket Turbo ($800 for my hx50)


Exhaust ($400 for the 3" setup I was running behind my 7mgte)


Uprated clutch/pressure plate (have not sourced yet)


Bigger intercooler (~$200 ebay intercooler)


Intercooler piping kit ($120? ebay kit)


BOV (haven't sourced yet)


Waste gate ($175 Tial 44mm MVR on craigslist)


Bigger injectors (haven't sourced yet)


Higher volume and pressure fuel pump (~$200?)


Fuel tank of some kind (fuel cell, or I think a 76 260z tank? with different fittings) ($200 shipped from a forum member here: I bought a '75 tank with -8 AN fittings on it.  Came off a carb'd LS1 project


Bigger fuel lines (Came with the tank)


Rising rate fuel pressure regulator (haven't purchased yet)


Fuel filter (meh, $30?)


ECU of some sort, I'm with devil on that, MS will be your best bet price wise, most people who run 2jzs tend to spend a little more for brand name as in the overall price it is fairly negligible ($800 for VEMS, I'm much happier with it than either my original Megasquirt n spark - extra box from years ago or my friend's newer MS box)


Gauges (boost, oil pressure, water temperature, speedometer, tachometer) (~$100-300, I will be buying a tablet and running a bluetooth module off of my VEMS box.  I am making a custom dash, so I will include a mount for a galaxy note tablet)


Electric fan w/shroud (have not sourced yet)


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additional costs:

$130 or so for my ARP head studs

$200 or so for my cometic multilayer steel head gasket

$200 or so for a full gasket kit (upper and lower)

$115 for my q45 throttle body

Intake manifold (the 2jz-gte manifolds won't bolt to my ge head) will be fabbed for free by a (very) good friend.

 

$400 or so for braided everything.  IIRC, Clifton here on the forum had his boost reference blow off and started a chain of events that blew his motor up.  I'll be running AN\braided vacuum lines in a couple spots.

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From what I'm seeing, all of these are for modded engines.

What's the bare minimum setup needed to get it running and driving, but not necessarily racing?

This would mean either the stock 2JZ twins or a CT26 from a 7M if the twins won't physically fit, R154 with stock clutch, stock ECU, hacked together harness based on the stock 2JZ harness, homemade 3.5"-4" straight and downpipe, radiator and intercooler, mounts, turbo line stuff, necessary fuel tank and oil pan, fuel lines, etc.

I have a buddy with a Mk3 with a 60:1 CT26 and a K&N filter that's pushing about 280bhp, so I know the stock R154 clutch shouldn't slip at stock 2JZ power.

 

Basically, get it from a daily driver with an L2x to a daily driver with a 2JZ.

After that, the order would be basic performance mods to get the engine running happily to get better gas mileage, chassis reinforcement and complete overhaul of any rust spots (Weight be damned in this part. Still lighter than a stock Supra. Engine will pull), basic bodywork on any rust spots (Sanding, Bondo'ing, rattlecan seal), brakes (Will the stock Mk3 brakes work?), fully adjustable suspension (Similar to the full Tein kits with the computer that actively adapts the settings), a few more performance mods (Bigger turbo, injectors, MAF, top end rebuild kit, etc), aero body kit (Front lip and moulded spoiler. Maybe a rear and bottom diffuser, if I can afford it), a real paint job, interior (My long-time girlfriend is a taxidermist, so this leaves some rather interesting possibilities, plus we both have an interest in steampunk/dieselpunk designs. Wood lacquered black/dark brown with brass seams. The brass would more or less cover up the fact that we're neither one skilled enough with wood to work the dash as a single piece. Dark leather seats, gauge needles made of clock hands. Not the shit you see on Deviantart with gears glued to everything with absolutely no reason to it), and then wrap the whole thing up with rims.

After that, I'll finish paying the bills and start work on the next project. A "classic" R35 GTR, maybe?

 

I'm not a mechanics expect by any means, but I'm learning, and my best friend was the owner of Stroke It Imports before their supplier decided to sell to the masses and they lost their market edge and went under.

That said, labour will be reasonably cheap, probably paid for by buying him some carbon fiber parts for his MA70. Maybe doors.

Other than that, I go to a technical school for computer stuff that has a welding program, and it is not too uncommon for projects to be brought to second year students and all you pay is materials. The quality is about what the average hobbyist could do at home. The novice skill is offset by quality welding stations and expert supervision.

 

If I don't go with a 2JZ, I'd go with an RB25DET. If not that, I'd go 7M.

If it wasn't for the torque the engine makes, the 7M would be higher on the list, if not first. 280 ft·lb of torque (With the wastegate pressure put to 10-12psi. Probably closer to 300 with a straight pipe) would be miserable in a 2300lb vehicle until I snagged some super wide rims. Probably close to what the Viper ACR uses.

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You pretty much need all of the things on the list to have a fully functioning vehicle with room to grow. If you were desperate to get the engine in the car in stock trim, you could find a donor car and use all stock components and just have aftermarket fuel lines, custom exhaust, and custom mounts. From what I've seen on craigslist that can be 3k for a running driving mk3 supra to 7-10k for a running but bad condition mk4. Mk3 supra's with swaps occupy around the 5-7k mark.

 

Just know, that if you are aiming for a budget swap, and planning on asking your friend for most of the help, you are going to run into a lot of problems. Coordinating schedules, work space, parts runs, etc. The worst part by far was having to purchase all the small things that weren't on the main list for my swap. I have 200 hours into my swap so far and probably over 7k into just the motor swap so far, quite a bit more is sunk into the actual car. If you are still in school and don't have the suggested 15k, it may be better to slowly fix things on the car in prep for the swap, instead of grafting in a new heart into a tired chassis. Alternatively, you can buy a supra, build it up a bit, and when you have the time, money, and space, shove it into the datsun, you will be familiar with the motor and it should be overall an easier task. 

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^But you had your own tools, connections for parts, welder, etc. I agree, I think getting the motor into the car and the mounts fabbed up was about a 3 day process and if it was running prior to being pulled I'm sure it wouldn't have taken much longer, but to your average guy it's going to take quite a while or loads of money. I think it would be better to err on the side of caution.

 

I mean if I drove a 240z to your house and handed you 2k and expected to drive away in three days with a running 1jz swap, I doubt you would be interested.

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Craigslist motor 500$, craigslist r154, came with stock clutch 300$, 200$ bellhousing on a forum, 35$ slave cylinder. 7$ clutch line advance auto, stock fuel pump (already on the car, 280z) made my driveshaft, made my mounts, 30$ drop from metal supplier, 150$ aem uego ,150$ ebay intercooler kit. Drove awesome. Dude who bought it drove it 15hr's home to florida. No issues. Very fun, very cheap. My welder is a hobart handler 140. 350$ brand new. My angle grinder is a dewalt from home depot. 50-70$. Theres nothing wrong about doing it the way i did. This forum is super hung up on over building. My car ran awesome. My current does too. And cost only a little more.

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Dude, peace man. Not saying there's anything wrong with the way you did it, in fact I am all for doing everything on a budget, my car is built on ebay, craigslist bargains, and harbor freight, but your build was time and skill intensive. There's value there. If you don't value your time and skills you have learned, then your doing something wrong. To get all the parts, register for different forums, research, go to the auto parts store, browse craigslist, look up how to and make your own mounts, there's value in the time you spent there. Throw the exact same parts and tools at someone else, and they probably wouldn't be able to make heads or tails of it. Not saying you need to go around charging everybody 80$ an hour for helping them out, but there is value that you aren't accounting for.

 

Easy example is to order the R154 clutch slave from drift motion. Oreiley has the wrong part number to the correct image and cannot get the right part in washington state. 

 

Location also becomes a huge factor in cost as well. When I was looking for machine work the closest shop wanted 1200$ to do basic machining on my motor. I walked into a machine shop quite a bit out of the ways and they wanted 300$ to do the same machine work, I've heard out in mississippi and alabama, the same services go for maybe 150$,  huge difference in price based solely on location.

 

And please don't group my opinions as a reflection of the whole forum, it's just my personal opinion and shouldn't be representative of the whole forum. I tend to be cautious and tend to want to do things cautiously. I don't know the people who ask for advice, they can be a master mechanic with a lift and full fab capabilities, or it can be your average joe with harbor freight tools and an internet connection. If you tell someone two grand to do a full engine swap, and they start pulling apart their car the moment they hit two grand, most people are not going to be able to finish. If you tell someone 10-15k, it shock checks them, and makes them really think about what they want/afford. A large proportion of people who are thinking about 2jz or rb26 swaps are considering rather large expectations. I would rather have them enjoy the chassis and what it has to offer, then to spend every dime they have and then sell it on as an incomplete project. 

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You pretty much need all of the things on the list to have a fully functioning vehicle with room to grow. If you were desperate to get the engine in the car in stock trim, you could find a donor car and use all stock components and just have aftermarket fuel lines, custom exhaust, and custom mounts. From what I've seen on craigslist that can be 3k for a running driving mk3 supra to 7-10k for a running but bad condition mk4. Mk3 supra's with swaps occupy around the 5-7k mark.

 

Just know, that if you are aiming for a budget swap, and planning on asking your friend for most of the help, you are going to run into a lot of problems. Coordinating schedules, work space, parts runs, etc. The worst part by far was having to purchase all the small things that weren't on the main list for my swap. I have 200 hours into my swap so far and probably over 7k into just the motor swap so far, quite a bit more is sunk into the actual car. If you are still in school and don't have the suggested 15k, it may be better to slowly fix things on the car in prep for the swap, instead of grafting in a new heart into a tired chassis. Alternatively, you can buy a supra, build it up a bit, and when you have the time, money, and space, shove it into the datsun, you will be familiar with the motor and it should be overall an easier task. 

 

I know it'll be a big project. No doubt about that.

But I honestly don't think I'd spring for a 400whp Datsun, unless I made a custom tube chassis similar to what you would find in a trophy truck and then bolt the body panels and interior to it.

That'd be ~$10k for the chassis, including labor from a body guy in town, but assuming I had the plans already, but unless a detailed engineering schematic exists digitally already, I don't think I could design one without all the mount points of everything and detailed measurements.

May be worth it, since the tube chassis could handle 800whp pretty soundly, and no rust. But the initial cost is daunting. Perhaps in the future it could be done. The year is 2077 and all them bitches at the retirement home want to get in on my forcibly preserved Fairlady. Only stock part that remains is the measurements of the wheelbase and the body panels, and something about robot armageddon.

 

My plan would be to, instead of saving X amount of money and diving in headlong, I'd save up the parts and tools needed. Buy the motor and trans, FMIC, harness, ECU, driveshaft, etc whenever I find a killer deal and can spare the money, and leave them in storage until I have everything, plus some money for unforeseen expenses.

The bargain hunting should be able to lower the price, cumulatively, by about $2k, maybe more. And the parts could be used for a different project or resold if things didn't work out.

That said, this isn't something I'll actually be doing until after college, unless I get a good job during.

But I like to be able to account for things while I'm saving. There's a page of ideal swaps, but none for what it would take to get it to drive gently on the road. No drifting, autocross, or drag racing until much later (If ever).

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I know it'll be a big project. No doubt about that.

But I honestly don't think I'd spring for a 400whp Datsun, unless I made a custom tube chassis similar to what you would find in a trophy truck and then bolt the body panels and interior to it.

That'd be ~$10k for the chassis, including labor from a body guy in town, but assuming I had the plans already, but unless a detailed engineering schematic exists digitally already, I don't think I could design one without all the mount points of everything and detailed measurements.

May be worth it, since the tube chassis could handle 800whp pretty soundly, and no rust. But the initial cost is daunting. Perhaps in the future it could be done. The year is 2077 and all them bitches at the retirement home want to get in on my forcibly preserved Fairlady. Only stock part that remains is the measurements of the wheelbase and the body panels, and something about robot armageddon.

 

My plan would be to, instead of saving X amount of money and diving in headlong, I'd save up the parts and tools needed. Buy the motor and trans, FMIC, harness, ECU, driveshaft, etc whenever I find a killer deal and can spare the money, and leave them in storage until I have everything, plus some money for unforeseen expenses.

The bargain hunting should be able to lower the price, cumulatively, by about $2k, maybe more. And the parts could be used for a different project or resold if things didn't work out.

That said, this isn't something I'll actually be doing until after college, unless I get a good job during.

But I like to be able to account for things while I'm saving. There's a page of ideal swaps, but none for what it would take to get it to drive gently on the road. No drifting, autocross, or drag racing until much later (If ever).

I was wondering a similar thing. I've started the process of doing this swap and I've been documenting all of my costs in getting the swap running in stock condition. Hopefully if time allows in the next few months I'll have a price list for a stock 2jz swapped datsun.

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