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Suitable 280Z Fuel Pump


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Hi everyone,

 

Just had my car quit on me. I looked underneath when it died and there was a wet spot under the fuel pump and I could smell the gas. It was giving me intermittent problems before but it seems it's finally bit the bullet.

 

I've been doing a lot of searching to find a replacement pump but I'm having a hard time finding something saying "___ is a swap-in replacement."

 

O'reilly and Autozone sell a couple models but one of the O'reilly pumps listed is a tank-mounted pump so naturally I'm a bit wary of trusting their system. I've also heard of people using the Walboro 255, but after looking at their website and checking around a bit, it seems that it might be too high of a pressure? I don't have a pressure gauge so I'm also wary of buying this, not to mention I've heard it takes some fab work to get it in.

 

Any help is appreciated as always.

 

 

- Pac Man

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I see, I thought that was the case but I always figure better safe than sorry.

 

Do either of those (MSD 2225 or Walbro 255) bolt in the same as the stock fuel pump, or will I have to do some fab work? My first job was working with sheet metal so I'm not afraid of drilling a few holes, but I definitely don't have the skill or equipment to weld myself a bracket.

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 Just make sure your fuel tank is clean. Dirty, rusty tanks can ruin a pump quickly.

 

^Definitely this!  When I first bought my Z the fuel tank was screaming all the time.  I knew the car had been sitting for over a decade so I took the tank out and it sounded like a maraca.  When I bought the car the previous owner said the fuel pump was recently replaced, but it took no time at all for it to clog up again.

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MSD 2225 is easy to put in. Drill new holes for the pump and that's it. Remember to mount it horizontal and as low as possible comparing to tank position. It is a good pump, but making extreme whining noise. Trust me, it is louder than my 3 inches catback on idle, especially when it staving. 

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Yeah I'm actually thinking the fuel tank is the suspect in what made my car stop running. I tried starting it last night while my dad and I were pushing it back and I heard it catch once so I kept trying. Eventually I got it to cough to life but it was running terribly like before it died. I limped it down the road and eventually it started running normally. I've been having an issue with it over the last few months where it will randomly lose power temporarily. Seems like it's gunk in the fuel tank getting clogged but I think it's probably in the pre-pump screen or something. I checked the fuel filter not long ago and the gas inside of it was clean (the gas inside the old one was noticeably dirty when I took it out).

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Pump failing to pump and pump leaking might be two different problems, as well as engine as running crappily.  The Airtex E8312 is the common parts store replacement pump.  It's not very noisy and seems to work fine, generally, although some people have problems,  I've had one for about three years.  Lots of people seem to complain about noise from the MSD225 (or Walbro, same thing I believe).  How it's mounted is important.

 

Another option is a used Bosch brand pump from a wrecking yard Ford pickup (with EFI - might take some fittings work).  Sometimes used factory pieces are better than new aftermarket.

Edited by NewZed
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Sounds reasonable.  Might be worth removing the check valve to see if you can fix it.  That's about where the blockage would be if it's in the pump.  Even so the pump bodies are designed to handle pressure.  Maybe your leak was on the inlet side and you were sucking air.  You could measure fuel pressure, to be sure it's the pump.

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my pump went out about a week ago on my 76 280z, (day after I got the car, go figure) and after some work I found out the wires to the pump are bad. also found that out after I had bought a new pump. I hooked everything up through a switch that ive hidden for security reasons. I can hear the pump when the switch is flipped. now the car acts like it wants to start, gets so close, but then dies. is it possible I didn't get a pump with enough pressure? the pump is a carter P70304 pump. it says it pumps 30 gallons per hour, but I have no idea on the actual psi. ive read that z cars need at least 36psi but I don't know if the carter is sufficient. any help??

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The internet says that that pump should work.  It's DC and directional though and the motor will run backward if the wires are.

 

Could be that your old pump was okay and the original problem is still there.  Measure fuel pressure.

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my pump went out about a week ago on my 76 280z, (day after I got the car, go figure) and after some work I found out the wires to the pump are bad. also found that out after I had bought a new pump. I hooked everything up through a switch that ive hidden for security reasons. I can hear the pump when the switch is flipped. now the car acts like it wants to start, gets so close, but then dies. is it possible I didn't get a pump with enough pressure? the pump is a carter P70304 pump. it says it pumps 30 gallons per hour, but I have no idea on the actual psi. ive read that z cars need at least 36psi but I don't know if the carter is sufficient. any help??

That pump is for carburetors.  It will not deliver the flow at the pressure you need.  With the 280Z fuel rail and regulator, you will just be dead-heading that and it won't flow.

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Search the part numbers on the web.  All signs are it's a standard EFI replacement pump.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P70304/10002/-1

 

 

Edit - I should say though, that Carter Fuel Systems does a crappy job of supplying information about their products.  Probably a sign of very wide specifications.  Cant' be held responsible if they don't write it down.  Looks like they're part of Federal Mogul.

 

http://carterfuelsystems.com/fuelpumps/universal_fp.php

 

http://fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=P70304&partType=Fuel%20Pump%20-%20Electric%20In%20Line&brandId=CF#.UqYloicW5ko

Edited by NewZed
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Search the part numbers on the web.  All signs are it's a standard EFI replacement pump.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P70304/10002/-1

 

 

Edit - I should say though, that Carter Fuel Systems does a crappy job of supplying information about their products.  Probably a sign of very wide specifications.  Cant' be held responsible if they don't write it down.  Looks like they're part of Federal Mogul.

 

http://carterfuelsystems.com/fuelpumps/universal_fp.php

 

http://fme-cat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?pNum=P70304&partType=Fuel%20Pump%20-%20Electric%20In%20Line&brandId=CF#.UqYloicW5ko

 

It does say it is compatible, I missed that.  I did see this on Summit Racing though, and that's why I thought it was for a carbureted engine

 

"With a high free-flow rate and consistent fuel pressure, these Carter in-line electric fuel pumps will keep up with any carburetor. Racers will appreciate their low 4.5 amp draw, too."

 

Perhaps the intake of the pump is clogged with old debris.

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Perhaps the intake of the pump is clogged with old debris.

 

That's what I suspect is the problem with my car. I took it on a very short test drive Sunday and it was really low on power and stuttered a couple times (held my breath every time it did).

 

Tomorrow I'm going to clamp off the line from the tank to the pump and disconnect it so I can inspect the screen filter thing.

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