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Thanks Sunny and I'll try to power shift it and see where that takes me...it couldn't get any worse lol Camaro's and other TR6060's have bad 2/3 gear shifts and I knew this when I bought it but I can't shift it at nearly 6k then I have to get that fixed.

 

LOL well thats not true. I've seen second gear go boom because someone power shifted it when the synchro was bad.

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Ok I'll do some testing and see what I can do. I went with a 4an line from the master cylinder to the slave in the transmission. I wonder if a 3an would work better? I just figured or read somewhere that more flow was better and adjusted the nut on the pushrod connected to the clutch pedal mostly all the way out. And I didn't shim the ls1 t56 clutch any when installing into the tr6060. It could be fixed with one of these issues. But 1,4,5,6,R are all fine when shifting into them whenever I please.

 

And yeah I'm semi- in the market for an lsd but wanting to fix my drivability first plus the roll bar.

Edited by EastTnZ

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Many years ago I used a -4 an flex lines at my wheels for the brakes because I didn't know any better. When I swapped them out to -3, it shortened up my brake pedal throw by a very noticeable amount. I guess it took more fluid in the larger lines to move the pistons the same amount of distance.

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Many years ago I used a -4 an flex lines at my wheels for the brakes because I didn't know any better. When I swapped them out to -3, it shortened up my brake pedal throw by a very noticeable amount. I guess it took more fluid in the larger lines to move the pistons the same amount of distance.

Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. I just went off the inner diameter of the stock line running from the master to slave at the slave which is a hard line. And the fact that GM necks down the stock line on the tr6060's near the mc to make people granny shift and in-turn causes less wear and tear on the equipment but premature clutch wear, but that's not a warranty item. This was found out with using a pen micrometer on ls1tech or somewhere else I was researching. I'll pick one of those 3an lines up from speedway too. And shorter! 48" is wayyyyyyy too long.

 

And parts are bought to go to -3AN now, and I wait until Feb 3...

 

Oh and WarlordZ, sometimes when it grinds I wanna go built auto, turbo'd, drag slicks and no a/c. But I like to jam gears and have a/c (someday) too much to give it up!

Edited by EastTnZ

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Well... I swapped out the 4an to 3an from the master to the slave and after bleeding for over an hour with my speed bleeder/refilling the reservoir and the clutch is actually softer. It will not even let me shift into any gear at all while running. Not running I can shift into any gear. Bigger mc and 4an line?? I'm moving backwards now and I don't get it.

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First, loosen all the clutch pedal linkage bump stoppers to make sure the pedal is getting full stroke and full return.  Then try bleeding some more.  This was the ticket last time I let my clutch master reservoir run dry.  I always seem to forget this step.  It takes more stroke and return to bleed the system when it is full of air than it does to release the clutch once you have all the air out.  Once you have a firm pedal, you can go back and fine tune the clutch pedal stops for perfect engagement without excessive pedal movement.  If I remember correctly, once I loosened all the pedal stops, it only took a few pumps to get all the air out.  For some reason, I always forget to do this and I fight and fight and fight bleeding the clutch.  I can get irrational and all red in the face fighting the DAMN clutch.  I feel your pain.

 

If that doesn't work:

Bleeding the clutch master was/is the most painful part of this build for me.  I think a lot of our pain is air in the master cylinder, so we can't generate flow in the line and slave adequately.  I recently saw that Tilton now has small master cylinders with bleed ports on them-that is the one I will buy next time.  Gentle bleeding with a mighty-vac with suction limited to 5-10 on the guage and the suction fitting shoved into the larger of the holes down in the bottom of the reservior with the strainer screen removed-this has been helpful.  And,  make sure that you are elevating your bleeder line so that air rises from the slave to your bleed port.  If that doesn't work, put your wife's favorite bath towels all over the fender and engine compartment and put one of her Tupperware bowls under the master.  Then get somebody to help you pump pedal while you "bench bleed" your master with the line removed.  You put your finger over the line fitting port when the pedal is coming up and remove it when the pedal is coming down.  Then quickly attach your line before the master reservoir can drain dry.  Very messy.  Get your assistant to push slowly on the pedal so you don't squirt all over things. And fully remove your finger-if you only partially remove it, you can create a nozzle effect and squirt high pressure fluid EVERYWHERE.  A speed bleeder in the remote bleeder line helps a lot.  My remote bleeder line has a speed bleeder, but I can also use zip-ties to position it inside the fluid reservoir so that I don't waste a lot of fluid. 

 

I don't think you need a larger MC.  m1noel accomplished good clutch release with only a 3/4" MC.  I have a 1" and it is STIFF. 

Edited by RebekahsZ

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Weird thing was that when I disconnected the line from the reservoir the rest of it didn't run out. It barely let a few drops come out. So the reservoir never got dry. The only thing that was dry was the new 3an line. The fluid i pumped out from bleeding was dirty after only 47 miles on it and speed bleeding it was easy and was pumping with no bubbles at all.

 

I've got the 7/8" Tilton MC I believe, and it was a stiff clutch push with the stage 2 clutch and 4an line but now it is half that of what it was since the 3an line is installed.

Edited by EastTnZ

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Dirty clutch fluid is part of the game with these inside-the-bellhousing clutch hydraulics. It doesn't seem to really hurt anything, but I flush my system a couple times a season.  Once you have all the air out, flushing is no problem IF you keep your reservoir topped up.  If you let the reservoir run dry, it's back to the damn drawing board trying to get the air out.  If I can get the air out of mine, you for sure can get yours right.  Get back on it tomorrow.

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Air bubble the size of Texas... I learned how to bleed it better after a few hours and the Tipton hotline of making sure my master cylinder wasn't bad. I'm gonna adjust the bump stops on the pedal and see if the 3an will work but right now I have a pretty firm pedal and synchros won't let me in so I'll adjust and if no good I'll swap back to 4an then and go from there but a mityvac is on the way soon. Thanks for the help guys. I got to feeling down on the manual problems I'm dealing with and was looking up built 4l60e/4l80e's and turbo setups last night after I couldn't get any pressure built up, and thinking about the thought of having to pull the tr6060 back out for a $200 slave/$1300 rebuild...

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Don't give up! Read somewhere of my agony last year and I'm good to go now and all smiles. I had the same problems. 99.999% chance the whole problem is air. Limp it down here in 4th gear this weekend if you can't get it. I'm no gifted mechanic but maybe together plus a couple beers we can get it right.

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Ok so after a little time off from the z I got my parts in and installed a new rear main output shaft seal for the TR6060 and tightened up the Trans cooler lines and it doesn't leak anymore! So I drove to the mountains to hike with the fiancé and drove home after that 25 miles or so and it hasn't leaked a drop, finally! Also installed a new pioneer CD player that sounds pretty good too. Going to remove some natural weight reduction tonight, change the oil, top off the Trans & diff fluid, and put a few more miles on it to test it out, and the clutch is breaking in more every time I drive it. One flaw though, a stupid lifter is ticking intermittently now...only after I get on it hard above 3k rpms. After you cruise around below 2k rpm it will quiet down after a while

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Did you have any trouble bleeding the clutch this time? If not, any suggestions for the rest of us for our future trials? Also, any chance that the ticking is an exhaust leak? Try retorquing all your exhaust connections including the head-to-header bolts. I think the torque recommendation into the aluminum head is pretty low, so don't go crazy, like only 25 ft-lb(?). My 3-bolt flange on the collector was bad to loosen often. You've probably already tried that, though so I'm not trying to be a know-it-all.

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Lol I did the same thing trying to bleed it and eventually just stopped. Went outside to warm it up to operating temp before it got down in the single digits and tried to put it in gear and it went so I drove it around and it worked great so if it's not broke don't fix it lol. My exhaust is one single piece all welded together minus the tri-bolt flanges and where it bolts to the heads so I'll check them but it sounds like it's a lifter on the pass side near the firewall. Tried marvel mystery oil to clean it but it came back yesterday. Gonna change to 5w-30 and a new filter and see where that gets me tonight.

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5w-30 oil change and no difference after i go a few miles down the road. It starts ticking after heavy acceleration. Other than that it started sputtering last night... Never done that before, but let's just say nearing the bottom of the tank it's a go fast car only or else the fuel goes away from the pickup and was dropping fuel pressure bad lol. Time to go to the gas station

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Well I have a small update after 950 miles I didn't know what went wrong with my car. Mainly the brakes and they were fine all day going 450 miles round trip to Nashville from Knoxville to the z attack. Everytime I kicked it out of gear and pressed the brakes it would pickup a vibration through the pedal and the rpms would drop down to ~350 rpm and then catch itself before it almost died. I searched online and this was a brake booster issue.

There are 2 boosters (8.5" and a 10") and good luck trying to find somewhere in stock refurbished. Advance auto and autozone were unavailable and I got the last one at Oreillys.

 

New 280Z 8" Brake Booster Install

Anywho I got it installed today in less than 2 hours and it is a night and day difference! I still have to bleed the brakes at all four corners but now with my hawk front pads I can lock up my fronts and stop on a dime with no change in idle rpm of 800-900 rpm. I went from squish to perfect brakes. Apparently it's suggested to change out the booster every few years but mine was quite old and the paint peeled off the bottom like it had been on fire/master going bad so I'll be replacing that fairly soon.

Overall no complaints just a lot of complements, couple handful of offers to buy it and tons of fun taking turns!

Edited by EastTnZ

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5.3 Oil Pickup Tube O-Ring Replacement (Huge Improvement)

 

Finally decided to fix the low oil pressure issue whenever my Z sits at idle with the rear of the car lower than the front.  Oil pressure would stay around 30-40 psi while driving but when I let off the gas it gravitates to 0 psi.  Not good.  PITA to remove the oil pan after the LS was installed but I finished it tonight finally.  You can see the difference from the original 2002 factory o-ring vs the new felpro red O-ring.  $3.37 shipped.  

 

Fel-Pro 72401 Engine Oil Pump O-Ring

 

Now my engine when started up reads 70 psi and falls to the mid 50's.  Tested it out on my nearly 45* driveway and stopped at an angle which usually resulted in oil pressure dropping to zero but it stayed at 50 psi.  It worked!!!

 

Next, I'm currently installing Vintage Air in the Z because the fiance doesn't much care for the heat... Two trips averaging 800 miles a piece she was wondering when I would buy the ac kit...  Well at 4000 miles I'm installing a mini evap and sanden 508 compressor with the vintage air universal mounting brackets modified.  I thought their would be enough room and their is just barely (less than 1/4" in almost all directions for it to fit).  Granted I don't think it would've worked as smooth if I didn't leave the truck spacing and changed over to the car depth.  TRUCK depth shown in pictures below.  More info soon as I'm still finishing it up.

 

Vintage Air Universal Brackets - Sanden 508 Comp Fits!!!

 

Vintage Air Parts (Mini-508-20x14)

 
Thanks for the roll bar Keith!!!
 

Roll Bar Install - Thanks Keith!

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Currently it's $986 shipped to the house plus a guy around Knoxville said $100 to charge it professionally. But it's the only quote I've had so far. Do not charge a fresh system off the cans because r134 is so pressure critical is what I've been told. I need about 14 crimps done because I don't have the $200+ crimping tool so I'm not sure on pricing for that but $986+100+crimps. Not too bad and I tried to part it out like the build to save money but the guy I bought from is all original vintage air and beats the msrp by 10% plus out of state no tax. Hard to beat for an actual sanden compressor and I was not about to spend $450 on a no name compressor I couldn't source in the future and a set of brackets I'd have to modify for the truck layout. I think I saved about $200 going with the $48 universal mounts. And it's supposed to blow about 43* out of the vents and I can't wait!

"Wheels of Time" is the place I bought my vintage air from.

 

Locally I found a hose shop that would crimp the fittings on for $2 per crimp but if I bought the fittings from the local performance shop then they'd crimp them for free.

 

Sadly my condenser from Vintage Air couldn't be purchased with an 8 fitting on the drivers side top and a 6 on the pass side lower so I didn't have an aesthetically pleasing finish so I had to order a 180* size 8 fitting for the top to have enough hose.  Compressor, drier w/ binary safety switch, and condenser are mounted.  Plus I had to buy a smaller diameter air filter to not interfere with the compressor serp pulley. 

Smaller diameter filter to clear ac comp

Drier (with binary safety switch) mounted

Ac comp installed

Vintage Air Parts List + Pricing

Vintage Air Layout - Travis Franklin's Setup

 

Edited by EastTnZ

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While everybody is all like "turbo this and turbo that" I'm over here like "I've got AC!!!" Lol

And here are some pics from the install. Pretty straight forward. Should have it charged before the weekend and riding around with the windows up for once in the summertime! And btw there's room under this compressor and over the alternator for a turbo setup...

Note: I purchased the extra long hose kit and thought I'd need the extra 4' of size 6 and 4' of size 10 but after I ran all the hoses I had some left over. I had exactly 5' 4" leftover of 6 and 5' 4" leftover of 10. So the extra $10 is not worth it.

 

Vintage Air Install - 5.3 with sanden 508

Vintage Air 280Z Dash Shot

Re-engineered (rough) middle ducting...

Vintage Air Evaporator Installed

Vintage Air Heater Hose Valve Installed

Vintage Air Heat/Cool/Def vs 280Z Heat/Cool/Def

Almost complete! Vintage air cheap control set is a near perfect fit!

 

I've got it all hooked up and it runs great so far, I'm getting it charged within the next couple days hopefully then I'll see how cold it blows out the vents!  Also installed a 240z steering wheel I refinished a while back while I was at it. 

Edited by EastTnZ

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