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Yeah I know lol I wish I had fiberglassed the whole thing while it was out. I had the materials to do it is the sad part haha

 

Right now I'm searching for tuning how to guides and studying tuning files to see what values I need for the myriad of tables available in hptuners. Hoping to get a few responses back soon from some guys on the forums.

Edited by EastTnZ

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Oh and the other main reason for the engine to be pulled was a grind in second gear. Stupid factory blocker rings in the TR6060 were bad. You can easily see how hot the blocker rings were compared to the new carbon fiber ones... I've never rebuilt a transmission but I can tell you that I have a new respect for quality snap ring pliers (channelock brand is the only way to go for me). And I didn't have any leftover parts either!!

 

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Try to fit a 3" downpipe with JCI mounts they said... It'll fit they said... It'll be wrapped and angled down so it should be fine. Wish I had those custom mounts like SunnyZ!

 

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On a brighter note, I pulled the combo after I took some measurements once the t4 flange was mounted. Next the crossover for the hot side will be fitted, welded, vht painted, wrapped and then it's fire up time soon! I just cut my existing exhaust in half where the merge went into a single 3". I'll attach the downpipe to it so it will calm it down a little.

 

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What compressor mount is that, and does it fit? Richard.

I used the universal vintage air mount brackets you can buy. I spaced the sanden 508 compressor to the truck spacing depth and it actually works! Tight fit (less than 1/2" to the inner fender) but this compressor and setup will not work with non-truck setups. It nearly hits the coolant temp sensor location on the driver side head as it sits. Truck spacing is 3/4" forward of the ls1 f-body setup or equivalent. Check back through my previous posts. I think I have some pictures and info on it.

Edited by EastTnZ

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Well I have a small update: New brake master cylinder has been installed and the crossover pipe is complete with the wastegate and narrowband o2 bungs installed. I have also coated the pipe and manifolds with VHT before wrapping them. Still trying to figure out a route for the oil drain among all this piping haha...

 

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Looking good! Are you going to modify the water pump neck? I am also going to use the truck stuff with my setup, but will move the water neck. Moroso makes a 1.25" threaded water neck is what I plan to use. Keep up the good work!

I hadn't planned on moving it but we will see how it holds up over time. Honestly there's not a lot of room left for it to go anywhere else lol. Thanks, I'm working to start tuning this thing by the end of February. Cleaning up the engine bay the rest of the week and insulating wiring harness in parts, then the engine goes back in for good. Once it goes in the rest should be pretty trivial. Just waiting on rubber grommet plugs, insulation and random parts I ordered. The only thing I have to have farmed out is the oil drain bung into the oil pan because I don't have a welder that will do aluminum.

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EasTnZ-  I usually get my slicks from either Summit or Jegs (depending on which has free shipping at the time) or MacCormick Racing.  With the 26" slick, you will likely just barely shift into 4th before the finish line.  With 28" slicks I can stay in 3rd but its a little down in the rpm range.  I found some discontinued 27" slicks that I will try, hoping to be right on the shift light going thru the timers in 3rd.  Unfortunately, the 8.5 is the only tire that I can fit inside stock fenders.  I tried going up to a 9" slick and the carcass is just wide enough to rub-and the sidewall on a slick is like paper thin-no rubbing allowed!  You can't judge at static ride height whether a slick is gonna rub or not-the car will really squat under traction when you drop the clutch as all 2600-ish pounds rocks back onto the rear wheels.  And there are guys in the 8s in the quarter on 8.5" slicks.  Its not the width, its the compound that makes you hook up.  And a little spin without wheel hop is your best friend.

Edited by RebekahsZ

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EasTnZ-  I usually get my slicks from either Summit or Jegs (depending on which has free shipping at the time) or MacCormick Racing.  With the 26" slick, you will likely just barely shift into 4th before the finish line.  With 28" slicks I can stay in 3rd but its a little down in the rpm range.  I found some discontinued 27" slicks that I will try, hoping to be right on the shift light going thru the timers in 3rd.  Unfortunately, the 8.5 is the only tire that I can fit inside stock fenders.  I tried going up to a 9" slick and the carcass is just wide enough to rub-and the sidewall on a slick is like paper thin-no rubbing allowed!  You can't judge at static ride height whether a slick is gonna rub or not-the car will really squat under traction when you drop the clutch as all 2600-ish pounds rocks back onto the rear wheels.  And there are guys in the 8s in the quarter on 8.5" slicks.  Its not the width, its the compound that makes you hook up.  And a little spin without wheel hop is your best friend.

So 15x7's with 0 offset rear wheels will work? I currently have 16x8's. I'll dig back through my texts for the tire dimensions and will be contacting you before I purchase just to double check. Thanks for the info!

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Since your car is down for the engine work:  order the tires, have them mounted on your existing wheels and see how they fit.  The only thing you lose is the mounting fee, and a few scratches on your rims.  I have a buddy with a 350/350 280Z who runs 26"X10" slicks on 15X8 wheels on stock springs with un-cut fenders and he only scrapes sometimes...on the tread, not the sidewall.  I think he's crazy.  And I spank him even when he red-lights.  He's usually had a few drinks, so he has an excuse.  He just blew up his second open diff.  Its the cross-shaft that keeps failing, then he locks up the diff and snaps a half-shaft and all hell breaks loose.  He told me he really made a mess of it earlier this fall.

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Where did you get your ac mount and what compressor did you go with? Sorry if I missed it earlier

 

I used the universal vintage air mount brackets you can buy. I spaced the sanden 508 compressor to the truck spacing depth and it actually works! Tight fit (less than 1/2" to the inner fender) but this compressor and setup will not work with non-truck setups. It nearly hits the coolant temp sensor location on the driver side head as it sits. Truck spacing is 3/4" forward of the ls1 f-body setup or equivalent. Check back through my previous posts. I think I have some pictures and info on it.

 

You did miss it. :D

Edited by Henness

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First, awesome build. I am in the beginning stages of mine. I have the car, the shell at least, I have the 5.3, some stock suspension, and ALOT of ideas. Some questions for ya, did you consider a coil over conversion? How about a cage, or a roll bar? Did you do any type of chassis strengthening in any way? I have been thinking about tying the frames together, adding strut bars, a roll-bar, etc. Lastly, if you were to do it again, would you go T56?

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Yes, I wish I had the budget for the coil over conversion but at the time I was more worried about completing the swap and all my struts were blown so tokico's and lowering springs were way cheaper. I've got a 4 point bolt in roll bar that I got from Keith but probably will upgrade some parts over the next year or two. If I tracked it more I would be worried but it's a daily driver and cruising long trip car for the most part. I mash the gas every time I'm in it though!! T56 was the route I had always planned and I even bought a t56 clutch package but ultimately all of the deals I came across fell through so I was at a turning point in my build and had to have a transmission so I found a way to make the tr6060 work and it's served me well. Supposedly it shifts smoother and I think it's not half bad. The t56's that I've shifted are notchy but I had to fab up a lot more because the shifter and mounts weren't readily available. T56 is an easier route to go. Hopefully the stronger parts in the tr6060 will pay dividends with the turbo build though! Good luck with the swap and keep wrenching it's worth it!!!

 

Had a few minutes this last couple days and changed out to LS6 springs (I almost forgot!) I think the tool is one time use because it and the stud used are both bent substantially! Piece of cake install though after you get the first one done. I used the top dead center method and it was very easy.

 

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Edited by EastTnZ

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Well, I got her back in for hopefully the last time on the turbo fire up! Engine bay has been touched up with paint, new AC bulkhead installed, rubber grommets patching up factory AC holes (1/2" solid plugs), 90* elbow on AC drain hose, remove surface rust off passenger side frame rail, wrapped Datsun harness with insulted heat wrap on passenger side, cleanup wiring crimps with solder and heat shrink tubing, cutoff factory engine bay metal for more turbo air filter room. Then I prepped the transmission and motor for install and it went in smooth! Lol. Time to cleanup the heads and valley cover due to bad intake manifold gaskets and no catch can system... There's a coating of oil in the intake... Hoping the morose parts I bought will solve this issue.

 

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Well, I tapped the oil block off plate just above the oil filter and the aluminum cuts like butter. I'll add the specs for 4an threads sometime in the future but it was super easy. I also dropped off the oil pan to have a 10an fitting welded on ($55) and feel like it was good/cheap insurance vs a bulkhead or another route. 1 day turn around on the weld job didn't hurt either.

 

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This grade B 25 lb box of 3" bends from Columbia river mandrel bends looks awesome! They're just dirty vs the other new 3" I purchased before. A ton of bends for the price.

 

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Lastly, I have drawn out the Hobbs switch installation diagram I will be using. At 3 psi the second walbro 255 should kick in just in case fuel from one pump isn't enough. Use 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relays and the yellow isn't used. Other than that it's a bunch of grounds and connecting to the pcm wire already plumbed to the existing fuel pump.

 

I'm out of town this weekend or I'd have a lot more done come early next week. Ordered a 45 degree 10an fitting for the oil drain, 4 to 2.5" reducer for the cold side at the throttle body and some other random misc parts. I can't wait to get this thing moving again! It feels like forever after tearing it down early November.

 

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Edited by EastTnZ

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Well, I've got it all put back together now. I pulled the file from the computer to tune it so fire up should be this week!!! I can't wait! I still have to add some brackets for the intercooler, padding for a little spacer between some things and clean up my wiring mess but it's coming along since early November. I have rebuilt the transmission and added a turbo. Sounds simple but with life it just takes more time than you plan for. Hoping to have a startup video soon! It has a dump exhaust until I get more shielding gas for the welder but I have all the bends and v-bands already.

 

I will post an in depth list of what I used in the coming week or so and it totaled about $2800 roughly and that includes some tools and the $500 for hptuners. Once I get around to beefing up the rear with an 8.8 I'll add a cam and turn up the boost hopefully!

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