Ylo73z Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 I broke one once , my car was manual for most of its life ...switched to automatic and put some street legal slicks and it broke a shaft first time I took it out , I think having a manual beats them up ,after I replaced them both I never broke one again and I'm still using the hoosier QuickTime Pro's and I'm running a 14:1 long rod 383 stroker motor now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 87-89 Z31T CLSD. It's looking like I need to tighten mine up, I think I have too much backlash. Interestingly, there is some backlash inherent to any morning me handicap assembly. I recently rebuilt a set of CV axles-there is a bit of backlash in the CVs. I just got a 3.70 CLSD that I'm going to put into a 3.54 R200 case. I'm going to try to do a better job this time and reduce a little slack in the driveline. Slack kills. I also mounted done more narrow tires, going from 10.5 to 9. Actual tread went from 10" to 8-3/4". I will probably run with the tires before I get to the new diff. I'm going thru VHT withdrawals at the moment-been about a month since my last clutch dump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I don't understand why some people are saying that a broken diff is better than a halfshaft.....what am I missing? What you are missing is that a broken half-shaft, if it is completely sheared, will flail around under the car potentially taking out fuel lines, brake lines, etc., whereas a broken diff means you are not moving anywhere anytime soon but are not a hazard to yourself or those around you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Here's my experience. Broke a halfshaft U-joint on the 1-2 shift at the track. Tore the brake line, e-brake line and brake caliper out of the car. About $800 worth of damage. It was a greasable u-joint. Do NOT run greasable u-joints if you're running high HP - only run the solid type. They are significantly stronger. FWIW - I've found that my 325 RWHP through a 3.70 R200 Posi works well with street tires that have a 160 tread wear rating. The cheapest and least painful way to ensure survival of your drivetrain is for the tires to be the weak link. Better to have them go up in smoke than to scatter parts on the track or highway. Lot less embarrassing too. I've found it limits my first gear a bit but then it holds from 2nd gear on. Any more HP and either the tires really smoke or something mechanical breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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