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260z Fusible link


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The 74 260z I picked up recently, would show no signs of power when i would hook up a battery to it. 

 

I went and cleaned out the grounds, positive contacts, and what not, wirebrushed the contacts and applied dielectric grease. installed new battery terminals.

 

Now fusible links is a new thing to me, as my prior vehicle experience never had them. Which I just now looked at, which could be the culprit.

 

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The 2 black looking aftermarket wires from the box lead to nothing.. while the 2 white wires from the harness are not connected to anything. My understanding is those 2 wires go to the box, with the fusible link connecting them.

 

My plans are to hook those back up. Now is there a way to make a proper fusible link for that? What amperage fuse can I use? thanks

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There's pictures out there of the original setup.  Someone disconnected the original link and replaced it with an inline link.  Maybe for a reason.

 

When you reconnect are you going to use your nose to determine if everything's OK?  I prefer a meter myself.

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yeah, DL the FSM, it'll tell you not only where those wires are supposed to go, but also which fusible links you should use.  It's pretty easy to change those to the Maxi-fuse Blade fuse holders.  Your block has been disconnected and is missing a fusible link.  To get it running you can install a 30A blade type fuse temporarily across each pair of wires. But don't connect the wrong ones together or you're likely to smoke your harness. Fuses are meant to protect your wiring.  Fusible inks are like large fuses.  I think they're usually 30A or 40A. The FSM has the right ratings.

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The fusible link block was in pretty bad shape.. I pulled the green fusible link off, and it broke the terminal. But the underneath side where the wires lead out look pretty weak. So i will replace it with a 2 fuse block. 

 

My understanding is to add a power cable from the battery to the aftermarket fuse box, than connect the white wire from the shunt to one fuse, and the white/red wire from the shunt to the other fuse. and I can than remove the white wire from the starter. Now where does that white/red wire come from?

 

 

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I picked up the 2 fuse block at walmart, got some 8awg wire scraps that I will be using for the job.

 

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Now I was cleaning my fuse box (dont mind the wet picture). The fuse side looks great, but the back side has me wondering.. Is the black wire suppose to look like that? Looks like someone soldered it on, but than again it could be factory.

 

 

Also there are 2 clipped wires, I didnt see any hanging wires around the dash. 

 

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What do you guys think? I assume one is Park Tail and Air Con .

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Since you're beyond just the fusible links and in to the fuse box you should consider adding relays, at least for the headlights and running lights at the combination switch, and maybe for the starter solenoid (260Z's apparently have problems there).  It would take some study though.

 

And didier's used Peugot fuse box, designed for long-term automotive use, is probably better than a brand-new Walmart unit.  Sealed from weather and designed for heat.  That Walmart unit could just end you up back where you started.

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I think this walmart box will be good for now. At this point, anything is better than 40 year old wiring. 

 

This is where I am at. I stripped back the wiring to expose the area. I removed the white wire that leads to the starter positive, so what is left of the white wire (pictured all the way to the right) which from what i understand goes to the shunt. I will connect that to the fuse box. Now My confusion is on the white/red wires that went to the fusible link. I clipped them both from the bad fusible link box, but which one do I remove in order to fuse up the other wire to the 8 gauge positive I will be adding? Let me know, Thanks!

 

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I suppose it is similar to these instructions for the 77 280z, but doing a google search I can't find much info on doing it to a early 74 260.. I been looking at the FSM but from what i see in the fsm, doesnt really look like what I got imo.

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Do you have a volt/ohm meter, or even a test light?  If not, you're in a bind.  No way to figure out what you're dealing with.  Even with a good diagram and set of instructions you need to test the wiring to make sure things are as they should be.  You can't just connect wires and hope, that rarely works.  It's probably what burned your wires in the first place.

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