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Wiring Harness


Ryan Merrill

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Setup in the 71 Datsun 240Z with Aristo 2JZ VVTI. Stand Alone vs modified harness.

 

 

I am not familiar with import stand alone harnesses like the one from AEM and haltech etc. Do they replace the entire engine wiring harness or use the stock harness? A swap harness for my engine using the stock ECU is going to run me about $1000 if I purchase one. I may rewire the stock one as needed but I like to know my options.

 

I had Gen VII DFI in my old mustang and it replaced the entire harness with the use of a crank trigger. The AEM seems to using the factory sensors and harness while utilizing the stock harness.

 

My thinking is : If I'm going to spend $1000 on a rewired stock harness and I could find a used standalone with its own harness for not much more money it would be more cost effective. I will have to go stand alone eventually.

 

Thanks

 

Ryan

 

 

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Standalones use stock harness. How much power are you wanting? Why stand alone? Its about 6-7 wires to make the jz run on stock wiring/ecu. And with an safc you can make upwards of 450whp with the stock ecu. Over 600hp with ane manage ultimate. You could also go power fc which will plug into the factory harness like stock, and run the engine with no harness mods. Also. 1000$ for a stock swap harness? Have you even priced one? Thats not even a real number. Dr. Tweak is more expensive than most, and the work is absolute garbage, and he doesnt even cost that much. Panic wiring is about the best you can get and is more affordable than any i've seen. Wiring specialties is not impressive and certainly doesnt warrant the prices they ask. But to be honest, any idiot in the world can wire one of these engines in an afternoon. Its very very simple.

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If its that easy to modify the harness I will just use the stock harness to start. I would prefer just to boost up the stock turbo's to start. There engine swap project cost enough, and this is my second one. I have priced them out and yes. Cost is $1000 on a everything brand new using factory connectors with fuse panel and wired for VVTI. Extra 100 bucks for an auto trans

 

Mustang ECU's are soo much easier. Chip, tune, can handle well over 1000 whp regardless of mods.

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http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=9461&page=1

 

Thats the link to mark panics wiring thread. Its the only place with his contact info. Quit comparing the way the japanese do things to the way american companies do things. Its insulting. You can build a ford with a hammer. Jz's are a bit more precise, and the tuning that accompanies that is as well. Accept it snd love it.

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Thanks for the info, its always appreciated. I assume there is a separate sensor or wire that must go back to the ecu to tell it cam position? So your saying the 2jZ stock ecu equipment is superior to ford's design in what way? Seems to me that its inferior and limited? I though that why everyone switched over to aftermarket ecu's when making big power because the stock ecu can't handle it?

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the wiring between the ECU and engine are different, however, you need not touch any of that to make the engine run. you only need the above listed terminals to make it run, and those terminals are the same between all jz's. its how toyota wires most of its engines from that era. sorry for being unclear.

 

without knowing exactly which ford engine and ecu you used, its not possible for me to list all the reasons the jz electronics are better than fords. the ecu is not limited in the sense that its a very precise and accurate system for running the engine, its VERY adaptive, and excellent for making the engine run reliably under stock or basic bolt on conditions. i don't really see a reflashable ecu as a good thing. The jz ecu works well in conjunction with an safc and fcd. i personally would not try to make 1000whp on a reflashed stock ecu. i've seen 550-600 on a stock jz ecu with the safc setup i mentioned earlier. your jz uses two intake cam sensors and a 36-2 crank trigger wheel which by stock standards is pretty damn good. and its already there. you don't have to add anything to make as much power as you need. there are tons of options for you to choose from. you can use an emanage ultimate and tune your car as if it was a standalone basically. tons of options.

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OK thanks. Looks simple enough to get the harness up and running. Thanks!

 

As far as the ford ecu is concerned, its works amazingly. Japanese dont want you to modify the ECU while ford promotes it. I mean why a entire separate harness just to control the fuel injectors? really? They even sell a kit that allows you to install a coyote motor in your car. Plug and play factory hotrod harness. My all aluminum 4.6 4V Teksid block was made by Ferrari, rods and pistons are Manly forged units, can remember who makes the forged crank. The head almost flow 300 cfm and are stable to 8500 rpm from the factory without even a spring change. My little 281ci motor set at 9 psi on the stock eaton blower makes 460hp and 440tq on 91 octane. Stock engine can handle 750 whp safely on pump gas, but I have seen over 1000whp many times (race fuel) and big blowers or turbo. This isn't some 1970's carburated push rod engine. Car drives like stock, no clutch chatter, gets 24 mph with drag gear. A precision hammer lol!

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as far as pnp units are concerned, i *THINK apexi pfc and aem are the only two options. however, any standalone should be usable if you wire their connectors in place of your own. for instance, im using an aem ems2 from a honda on one of my jz's, and i used a stock jz harness and wired honda ecu connectors on in place of the factory toyota ecu connectors. loaded a jz basemap and ran with it.

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Excellent. I think I will mod the stock harness to get it up and running. I emailed the person your talked about above and he is saying $500-$600 to make a harness. Were sorting the details right now. I am still considering modifying the stock harness if its as easy as you say

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