grayson260z Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 It's come to the point on my build that the rear suspension is going to be worked over and now I've learned that I face literally the hardest task in automotive History (according to some of you guys). I've read that you can just beat them to death and replace them, which is what I'm going to do, but any and all insight from some of you more seasoned veterans as to how to remove them would be helpful to me and to others I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) This is the method I've had a great deal of success with: The theory is - if you can get the spindle pin to turn, you can get it to slide out. First off, it'll never hurt to remove the retainer pin (bolt), plug the bottom hole, and fill the top hole up with your favorite penetrating oil solution. Take the nuts off the ends and apply penetrating oil there too - for as long you can afford to let it sit, reapplying as needed... Now for the turning part: The threads on the spindle are exactly the same as a Datsun (Nissan) lug nut. I save the original nuts and use a couple of old lug nuts on one end of the spindle. With the lug nuts locked up, try to turn the spindle. I use an impact wrench. Otherwise a big ratchet (or ratchet with a cheater) - or, more likely, a breaker bar - use you own favorite turning device. If it'll turn, you can most likely drive it out. Once it turns, tap on the other end and see if it'll move. I always protect the ends with nuts over the threads - again old lug nuts work well here. Then I'm tapping on the face of the nut, not the end of the spindle. Or, when using a drift, a nut slightly off the end provides a "cup" for the drift and keeps the drift from going off one side and nicking the threads... If it won't move with tapping, go back to turning it. If need be, get some one else to turn the spindle while you tap the other end. A nut on the end will only let you go so far, then you'll need to remove it and start using a drift to push the pin all the way out. With this job, patience really is "the key to joy" - as a fortune cookie once told me... I've found in every spindle I've pulled that the retainer pin (bolt) has slightly deformed the spindle pin in some way. Usually very slightly, but the pin is pretty high tolerance and even a slight bulge will have a dramatic effect. Try it yourself: Once it's out and cleaned off a bit, put it back in and see where it "catches". Mine have always slid back in fairly easily until it gets to the notch in the pin that the retainer mates with. Finding the "bump" and filing it off has always made the pin easier to reinsert and position correctly for the retainer bolt to go back in. Leads me to believe that installing and torqueing the retainer bolt properly may be more important than you would think. Edited February 10, 2014 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NgoZ Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Lots of penetrating oil, a lil heat, patience, and a spindle pulling tool. If you need a snapshot of one let me know I got mine somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayson260z Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Yeah can you show me what one of these pullers I keep hearing about looks like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grayson260z Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 See cause I thought if you could attach a threaded rod to the threaded end of the spindle and then run the threaded rod through a pipe with a nut on the other end of the threaded rod you could just tighten the nut against the pipe and it would pull the spindle out. Right? Hopeful;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 It'll more than likely pull the threads off the end of the spindle pin. I have a stack of ripped up ones and a few good ones left after using that type of puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Getting it to turn is key, that breaks alot of the friction you would fight hammering it. My easiest method has been a pneumatic hammer. I know everyone doesn't have one but if you do its well worth using it or borrowing one if you can. I bought some longer punch shaped bits for it and I cut the threaded end of the spindle pin off (after getting it to turn first) with a cutting wheel, clean flat, then drill a small pilot hole slightly in to the cut end of the spindle pin to give the bit on the hammer a good center point in the spindle pin that won't bounce out of center. Then just chatter away. My first set I did the hard way with a punch and a hammer and a propane turbo torch. I thought I would not be able to move my arm for a week it was so sore the next day. Good luck, you'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NgoZ Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Here ya go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) Keep in mind that new spindle pins are still available from Nissan for about $35 each. If your pins turn out to be difficult to remove don't waste a bunch of time trying to "save" the pins. Get them out however you can and replace them if it comes down to that. Edited February 10, 2014 by beermanpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Namor Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I cut mine so that it was just the center section in the strut housing. I then filled a paint tray with PB Blaster (bought by the gallon for $20-$25 if I remember correctly) and let it sit submerged for about 4 days. After that I was able to beat them out using a sledge hammer and punch. Prior to resorting to that method, I had tried everything including having someone put it in a 10 or 15 ton press and heating with an Ocy/Acet torch. If I were to do it again, I would try to get them out and save them for maybe 15 minutes. If I couldn't save the pins I would jump straight to what worked for me in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Keep in mind that new spindle pins are still available from Nissan for about $35 each. If your pins turn out to be difficult to remove don't waste a bunch of time trying to "save" the pins. Get them out however you can and replace them if it comes down to that. Are you sure there still availible from nissan ......every nissan parts dealer i talked too doesnt have any parts for a datsun ...and its been like that for years apon years i was told. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Are you sure there still availible from nissan ......every nissan parts dealer i talked too doesnt have any parts for a datsun ...and its been like that for years apon years i was told. Well, I bought some a few years ago from a Nissan dealer in Simi Valley, CA. Others on this forum or perhaps on ClassicZ have reported what appear to be recent purchases. Perhaps they are not available any longer. Things do change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Motor Sport Auto shows them. Courtesy Nissan might be a good on-line Nissan dealer option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poundz9oh9 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I bought new ones from Black Dragon a year ago and they were in Nissan packaging Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Having done my spindle pins 3 times over 20 years, I will not put them back if they have to come out again. I will be doing the grade 8, 5/8" bolt mod instead. Use lots of anti-seize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I have bolts in mine. Swore I would never put those God-forsaken spindle pins back in. If they seize up, and you have to have a special tool to take them out, WHY would you put them BACK in? Its a terrible design IMO, and I'll never use them on another car I have. Almost 10K miles, and they've been apart a half dozen times, and zero issues. Cost me all of $10 or something at the local hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 so you guys are just throwing in a bolt and capping the end of with a nut ...thats it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Are you sure there still availible from nissan ......every nissan parts dealer i talked too doesnt have any parts for a datsun ...and its been like that for years apon years i was told. So not true. I'm actually amazed at the number of parts you can still get from Nissan for these old machines. Must be one lazy-a$$ parts counter dude... It helps if you have part numbers - which you can get online. And, there are a few Nissan dealerships that cater to Datsun enthusiasts so they have a bit more experience, but my local dealer has been very helpful finding parts for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 So not true. I'm actually amazed at the number of parts you can still get from Nissan for these old machines. Must be one lazy-a$$ parts counter dude... It helps if you have part numbers - which you can get online. And, there are a few Nissan dealerships that cater to Datsun enthusiasts so they have a bit more experience, but my local dealer has been very helpful finding parts for me. Actually you are right on the laziness !....i checked with both nissan dealers in my end of town and thats what they told me......today i discovered another nissan dealer on the other end of town ...called them and the parts guy told me that they wont have any in stock but with part numbers its possible for him to search and that there might be some availible still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Use these two links and order on-line. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/RearSuspension/tabid/1731/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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