Rob L Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Ok just got off the phone with gia at TTT ...they told me there aware of the fact that there LCAs will rub the rotors of the zcar wilwood kit......they have also offered to do the mods for me there and then ship them out to me......they also assured me that there modifying does not compromise the stuctural integrity of there LCA . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Unfortunately the S30's brake design with the rotor mounted to the backside of the hub doesn't allow for a simple spacer to move things out. The hat can be machined down to offset the rotor outboard and then spacers added to the calliper to compensate. The only limitation is calliper to wheel spoke clearance. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Rotor to LCA interference seems to be a common issue with big brake kits. I've seen a number of issues with aftermarket brake kits in general. I suspect this has to do with parts being designed with the car in the air and the wheels off the ground. Callipers, rotors, hoses, parking brake cables may all clear when the suspension is at full droop, but it often appears that little or no consideration is given to what happens as the suspension travels through it's full range of motion. I've seen brake hoses fail from being too short for full suspension compression! That's why when I designed my rear brake kit, I went to the trouble of pulling the spring from the strut and spent hours and hours checking everything through the full range of motion. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Nigel that is nuts! Brake lines failing due to the fact they are too short. You make a great point though, the parts designed and sold need to be fully tested and not bench raced. I am lucky enough as I go through learning because I am still a practice mechanic that Rags and 1 Tuff Z are very meticulous in their builds and that has rub off on me. As soon as I would have put the car on the ground and rolled it back into the corner I would have lost both front rotors. Glad to hear TTT will mod the control arm before they send them out, wish mine was done so I didn't have to grind new powdered parts. Hopefully they will begin to ask if people are running big brake kits. I just realize they now sell a Wilwood setup of their own. Hmmm - I wish they would have pictures of the products installed on a car or at least complete struts assemblies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Grinding back the LCA is common for running the AZC big brakes. I've never seen anyone with boots burning either. When the car is level there should be enough air gap. I don't run TTT control arms, but I doubt mounting from bottom is a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Be meticulous, do your own homework and never follow the masses because "everyone does it like that". You'll save money, go faster and break less stuff in the long run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie2619 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I haven't read all the posts. My questionsi are: does AZC advertise this as a bolt-on mod? Have they offered a solution? It seems like one hell of an oversight (lack of product testing), and total disregard of customer satisfaction. Was there a spacer needed between the hub and rotor? Have they modified a caliper bracket for proper rotor to caliper alignment? I'm no genius but this seems like elementary stuff for a company than supposedly manufactures "racing" components! I'll get off of my soap box now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete280z Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 AZC does mention that the outboard edge of the LCA may need to be trimmed for clearance, though you need to read the instructions carefully to catch it: http://www.arizonazcar.com/frontz4luginstall.html (I skimmed the instructions and missed it until everything was installed and I ran the suspension up and down to check clearances.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie2619 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I guess that's why the AZC control arms are forked at the wheel end. No material to be removed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Nigel - know what you mean about brake lines and allowing for suspension travel. When my rears were done a bracket was torched off that wasn't necessary but the line routed close enough to it that when the suspension was loaded the brake line abraded on the cut edge of the bracket. Easy fix but could have been a disaster if I hadn't caught it. Pete280Z - You ever going to get that car done? :-)If you get on it you might actually get it on the road before DarthZ gets his running again. His attention is on a new career and a '71 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete280z Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Pete280Z - You ever going to get that car done? :-)If you get on it you might actually get it on the road before DarthZ gets his running again. His attention is on a new career and a '71 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup right now. Tring to get the Z project going again. It's been sitting for about 5 years. I suffer from too many projects... Sounds like DarthZ and I have that in common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 My questionsi are: does AZC advertise this as a bolt-on mod? There is no such thing as "bolt on" in the automotive aftermarket. Repeat that out loud. "Bolt on" is a BS marketing term to convince rubes to part with their money. My bet is that 50% of the parts sold as "bolt on" never get bolted on and are sitting on shelves in garages. Whenever you see that term, know you will need a $5,000 lathe and $10,000 mill to actually bolt the parts on the car. Clive, use this stuff on your ball joints and get air to the front brakes. Use stainless safety wire or zip ties to keep it in place. http://store.bimmerworld.com/gold-foil-protective-film-p841.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Johnc, thanks! Do you just stick that directly on the rubber dust boot? I guess you just inspect regularly to see that it hasn't come off? Or do we need to make a little shield from a beer can to stick the foil on? You know me-making things complicated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Just purchased the reflective material, will have pictures taken once installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 CB, While the car is at New ERA, why not just have them fab up 2 heat shields and some brake ducting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 I planned on the brake ducting, the heat shield is something I can think up and have something made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 Anyone buys these yet? https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/negative-camber-roll-center-adjusters-240z-260z-and-280z Best assumption based on pictures - I am seeing a second mounting hole that would push the wheel assemble (rotor) more outboard = wider track. That distance between bolt holes would be the distance I gain from dust boot to rotor. Question would be, is the new negative camber achieved too much or can it (maybe?) be corrected via camber plates since I already have them installed on the car? Besides the second mounting hole, thickness should also be accounted for to achieve correct bump steer geometry and would also "push" the ball joint further away from the rotor. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118911-negative-camber-roll-center-adjusters/?do=findComment&comment=1114528 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I wonder if one would have enough threads on the steering rack after pushing the wheel out? I'm kinda borderline on thread engagement already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I wonder if one would have enough threads on the steering rack after pushing the wheel out? I'm kinda borderline on thread engagement already. The steering knuckle is still attached directly to the ball joint. It doesn't get any further away from the rack. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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