Jump to content
HybridZ
Phantom

Suspension Techniques vs MSA Sway Bars

Recommended Posts

Summit Racing advertises the ST 52095 kit as having a 25mm front sway bar. MSA advertises a 1" front sway bar. Basically they are the same size. The 240Z installation requires more hardware than the 280Z - compare the two kits available at MSA.

The ST kit is advertised for 240Z only. What are the issues involved with putting it on a 280Z?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The best way to search any site is on Google by the following method.

 

Enter the search topic in the window and follow it by site:xxxxx.xxx

 

For instance, to search the topic of rear sway bars on Hybridz.org you would enter:

 

rear sway bars site:hybridz.org

 

This way the ONLY results that are shown would be from Hybridz.org.

Edited by ktm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only thing I did not like about ST is the powder coated color,Kermit green. The Kermit Green may work for some color combinations but not many. Powder coating is hard to remove though I did it. Then there is the expense of having them re-powder coated in a color that works with your color scheme. If ST would powder coat their product in lets say black like most parts under vehicles their customers would be happier with more cash in their pockets.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed the ST 240Z kit on my 280Z and would recommend it. It comes with new drop links to mount the sway bar behind the axle which is a much better location in terms of accessibility and exhaust clearance, and it looks good too. It was a bonus for me as the previous owner broke the the stock sway bar off running over a rock, I welded it back it but couldn't access all of it so it was likely flexing. 

 

The 240Z kit is also a bit smaller diameter, which is likely better if you're running higher than stock spring rates. 

 

Also the green is no longer, they're a metallic grey now. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a picture of it mounted in your car?  Are you running an R200 or R180 diff?  Looks like it wouldn't work in my car with the R200 in my car, at least with the R200 LSD with finned aluminum cover, as you need to run the mustache bar behind the drop-downs, making it not possible to mount that way.  Would be nice to find a solution to run the rear mounted ST 240Z rear sway bar with this setup, but it doesn't look like it will be easy.

 

I installed the ST 240Z kit on my 280Z and would recommend it. It comes with new drop links to mount the sway bar behind the axle which is a much better location in terms of accessibility and exhaust clearance, and it looks good too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a picture of it mounted in your car?  Are you running an R200 or R180 diff?  Looks like it wouldn't work in my car with the R200 in my car, at least with the R200 LSD with finned aluminum cover, as you need to run the mustache bar behind the drop-downs, making it not possible to mount that way.  Would be nice to find a solution to run the rear mounted ST 240Z rear sway bar with this setup, but it doesn't look like it will be easy.

 

 

280Z with R200, no issues. The kit comes with new drop links that have the ears for the sway bar brackets. Not sure the finned cover could pose an issue, I think the bar sits high enough it should be alright, but I can't say for sure. I don't have pics of mine, but here's one JohnC posted in this thread that you should find helpful. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is the question. I definitely prefer the idea of the ST 52100 parts which are larger diameter for the 280Z. My springs are relatively soft, 200F/250R and the car is fairly heavy, 1440F/1560R. The issue obviously is the rear bar clearing the finned cover on the R200 LSD.

Edited by Phantom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went ahead and ordered just the ST rear bar for the 240Z (51075) and looks like it should fit (JohnC also thinks so). The only mod will be switching from the diff brace (to allow for the finned cover) to something more like Ross used to make for his R230 kit. Shouldn't be too difficult. I just like the rear mount setup as opposed to the MSA rear bar in the stock location. I'll be playing around with it this weekend when I install the T3 rear control arms.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

 

I have the same setup (240z ST kit, R200 3.70 LSD differential) and did not have any issues.  I do not have a finned cover so I could use the stock brace.  There are no issues with clearance.  The sway bar should clear the finned cover as it tucks up right under the mustache bar but you'll need a new brace.

 

Damn 13 mp camera on my phone shows shit I can't see looking at it!

post-1734-0-36809300-1397614724_thumb.jpg

Edited by ktm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the hassle of a rear bar not worth the trouble. With CV axles, the link clearances are very very tight. I could get things to clear on the jack stands, then things would rub at ride height, or vice versa. Finally said screw it and ditched the rear bar. As a novice driver, I did an autocross with morning runs with the bar installed and afternoon runs with it removed. I could not appreciate a difference either way. If you have a V8 car with stiff springs and CV axles, I don't think a rear bar passes the performance to hassle to dollar to time test. I know this idea doesn't pass the bench racing logic, but perhaps I can save you some trouble.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the hassle of a rear bar not worth the trouble. With CV axles, the link clearances are very very tight. I could get things to clear on the jack stands, then things would rub at ride height, or vice versa.

 

I have no problem with CV axle clearance on my setup.  When I jack the car up I have around 1 mm of clearance.  I did shorten the end link slightly for clearance at full droop (when jacked up).

post-1734-0-74927500-1397615852_thumb.jpg

Edited by ktm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've always dialed in my cars so that I fine tune handling via the rear sway bar (via rubber or poly end link bushings or adjustable end links). 

 

With my 510, the rear sway bar on the medium setting was great for street & hill climbs, the full tight/firm setting for autocross and full soft for road course.  I would also soften the front bar to get better tight turning performance on autocross courses with a hairpin or spin cone, so I need the rear bar. 

 

I don't see any fitment problems overall, just having to modify/fab a cross brace for the finned cover since the one I have won't work.  I appreciate the pics. 

 

Since the rear bar was only $143 delivered, I figured that it was worth getting even if it does take a little work to get all sorted. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the hassle of a rear bar not worth the trouble. With CV axles, the link clearances are very very tight. I could get things to clear on the jack stands, then things would rub at ride height, or vice versa. Finally said screw it and ditched the rear bar. As a novice driver, I did an autocross with morning runs with the bar installed and afternoon runs with it removed. I could not appreciate a difference either way. If you have a V8 car with stiff springs and CV axles, I don't think a rear bar passes the performance to hassle to dollar to time test. I know this idea doesn't pass the bench racing logic, but perhaps I can save you some trouble.

 

Maybe not everyone's bench racing logic, but you're not the first person I know to have ditched the rear bar due to excessive oversteer. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful car ktm-Id rather seen 100 under car shots than a single shiny paint job.  1mm was too close for me to risk.  I could get it to fit, but not within my comfort level.  The Wolf Creek cvs are a little smaller than the Z31 CVs in the area where I was close.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×