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wfritts911

The "Ultimate" IRS Swap for S30s

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wfritts911    4

About to get the ball rolling on this kit finally. Been pricing materials and coming up with pricing. Right now we are looking at roughly:

 

Aluminum Mustache Bar with bushings and bolts: $200

Uprights (New and improved design from the pictures I have posted): $400

Strut Tubes to go with the uprights, ready to put on aftermarket coil over pieces( Can be setup for Koni's, Bilsteins, or any other strut ): $120

Front Diff Mount: $125

Dog Bone(Rear LCA Mounting point drop down): $75

Axle Adapters(I make flanges and weld them on, Explorer rear axles can be sourced from Ebay for $100 a pair, this price does not include the price of the axles): $250, $350ish by the time you buy the axles

Rotor Hat(The center bore needs opened up for the Intrepid Hubs): $25 + Cost of rotor hat

 

Total Cost for custom parts to do the swap: $1195

 

Now none of these prices are final, and hopefully I don't regret posting these, but I know many of you are interested in what this setup will cost, and this is a rought estimate. The odds are this is pretty close to right, but I won't know for sure until I begin to build them. Some parts may get cheaper, some may get more expensive.

 

Now as far as the front diff mount goes, we will see how this one does, if it ends up being an issue then we will go from there. There isn't really a good way to package a diff mount for these short nose diff, everything ends up acting as a lever. My diff mount that I've been running for the last year only bolts to one side of the tunnel, and I welded it on. If it were me, I would put a couple of stich welds on the front side of this diff mount. The welds would be easy to cut off if for some reason the mount ever needed to come out. But the mount is setup like the RT mount, it isn't in the way of anything, it should never need to come out again. If this mount was welded in, I don't see any issues with it.

 

Even though I'm out of school it seems like I'm still crazy busy, but I am hoping to start making some pieces next week to get this thing rolling.

 

-Will

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dreco    14

About to get the ball rolling on this kit finally. Been pricing materials and coming up with pricing. Right now we are looking at roughly:

 

Aluminum Mustache Bar with bushings and bolts: $200

Uprights (New and improved design from the pictures I have posted): $400

Strut Tubes to go with the uprights, ready to put on aftermarket coil over pieces( Can be setup for Koni's, Bilsteins, or any other strut ): $120

Front Diff Mount: $125

Dog Bone(Rear LCA Mounting point drop down): $75

Axle Adapters(I make flanges and weld them on, Explorer rear axles can be sourced from Ebay for $100 a pair, this price does not include the price of the axles): $250, $350ish by the time you buy the axles

Rotor Hat(The center bore needs opened up for the Intrepid Hubs): $25 + Cost of rotor hat

 

Total Cost for custom parts to do the swap: $1195

 

Now none of these prices are final, and hopefully I don't regret posting these, but I know many of you are interested in what this setup will cost, and this is a rought estimate. The odds are this is pretty close to right, but I won't know for sure until I begin to build them. Some parts may get cheaper, some may get more expensive.

 

Now as far as the front diff mount goes, we will see how this one does, if it ends up being an issue then we will go from there. There isn't really a good way to package a diff mount for these short nose diff, everything ends up acting as a lever. My diff mount that I've been running for the last year only bolts to one side of the tunnel, and I welded it on. If it were me, I would put a couple of stich welds on the front side of this diff mount. The welds would be easy to cut off if for some reason the mount ever needed to come out. But the mount is setup like the RT mount, it isn't in the way of anything, it should never need to come out again. If this mount was welded in, I don't see any issues with it.

 

Even though I'm out of school it seems like I'm still crazy busy, but I am hoping to start making some pieces next week to get this thing rolling.

 

-Will

very interested in this.

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My problems are not the limitations of the Ford 8.8 diff.  I was told by the shop building my diff that there is a good possibility that I will grenade the rear diff housing with the whp that is expected from my motor set up..... so we will see.

You will never grenade the housing, ever. I have run Mustang club for almost 20 year and I have a multitude of experience with the 8.8 ford. We have 2200 HP 414ci small block strokers running twin 88mm turbo's on the stock housing with a bit of bracing welding on. My personal car is 600 HP on the stock housing with no mods. Car sheered the axles in 1/2 first pass and broke some teeth off the gear. inside were upgraded and no problem since. I launch at 4800-5500 rpm depending on what tire I use. IRS is a little different on the Mustangs but can be made to work very well.

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About to get the ball rolling on this kit finally. Been pricing materials and coming up with pricing. Right now we are looking at roughly:

 

Aluminum Mustache Bar with bushings and bolts: $200

Uprights (New and improved design from the pictures I have posted): $400

Strut Tubes to go with the uprights, ready to put on aftermarket coil over pieces( Can be setup for Koni's, Bilsteins, or any other strut ): $120

Front Diff Mount: $125

Dog Bone(Rear LCA Mounting point drop down): $75

Axle Adapters(I make flanges and weld them on, Explorer rear axles can be sourced from Ebay for $100 a pair, this price does not include the price of the axles): $250, $350ish by the time you buy the axles

Rotor Hat(The center bore needs opened up for the Intrepid Hubs): $25 + Cost of rotor hat

 

Total Cost for custom parts to do the swap: $1195

 

Now none of these prices are final, and hopefully I don't regret posting these, but I know many of you are interested in what this setup will cost, and this is a rought estimate. The odds are this is pretty close to right, but I won't know for sure until I begin to build them. Some parts may get cheaper, some may get more expensive.

 

Now as far as the front diff mount goes, we will see how this one does, if it ends up being an issue then we will go from there. There isn't really a good way to package a diff mount for these short nose diff, everything ends up acting as a lever. My diff mount that I've been running for the last year only bolts to one side of the tunnel, and I welded it on. If it were me, I would put a couple of stich welds on the front side of this diff mount. The welds would be easy to cut off if for some reason the mount ever needed to come out. But the mount is setup like the RT mount, it isn't in the way of anything, it should never need to come out again. If this mount was welded in, I don't see any issues with it.

 

Even though I'm out of school it seems like I'm still crazy busy, but I am hoping to start making some pieces next week to get this thing rolling.

 

-Will

Will, Thanks for sharing your build. It is a Awesome build.Thanks Jerry 

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wfritts911    4

I know I've been off the map lately, but its still slowly making its way to production. Sent Texis300 the rest of the parts and updated uprights. He just got everything put on last week and everything appears to fit. All I've got to do is machine some new mustache bar mounts and fit everything up to my car again to make 100% sure a few minor changes are good, then I will roll out 5 sets. I have attached pictures of the new uprights which I think everyone will agree is a much better design. Don't lose hope in me yet, this kit is coming to life slowly.

 

post-27433-0-21414100-1407761086_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-25614700-1407761089_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-87855000-1407761090_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-37615200-1407761092_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-35895400-1407761093_thumb.jpg

 

-Will

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G-E    3

That looks pretty good, certainly beefy... 

 

Just a side question, if using intrepid hubs, wouldn't it make sense to come up with a caliper solution to use intrepid rotors?

Edited by G-E

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wfritts911    4

The intrepid rotors are pretty deep, they would interfere with the flat plate that the hub bolts to. I looked at a lot of stock rotors trying to find a cheaper option, and found some that would maybe work, but haven't had time to go back and pursue a budget brake setup.

 

-Will

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