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TheCrazySwede

Building an L28 (NA)

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You don't think given all things equal, other than the engine, that a tastefully modded car that still appears stock to everyone but the purists wouldn't gain the edge and most likely a higher sales point? I can see engine swaps and even possibly the turbo swap hindering an otherwise stock cars sale or at least not giving it an advantage but Eijis work seems like it would be an exception and something I would gladly advertise!

Edited by michael wales

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Condition and originality are everything in the collector car market.  The 240Z is not to the point where its worth more then what it costs to restore it (a few cars are, but the vast majority are not) so slightly modified cars are worth about the same as original cars given the same condition.  That will change.

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You don't think given all things equal, other than the engine, that a tastefully modded car that still appears stock to everyone but the purists wouldn't gain the edge and most likely a higher sales point? I can see engine swaps and even possibly the turbo swap hindering an otherwise stock cars sale or at least not giving it an advantage but Eijis work seems like it would be an exception and something I would gladly advertise!

 

If I ever get a L24 that I want to keep as original as possible, but I'd want it rebuilt and have some minor adjustments made to get the motor to run healthier than ever, while still keeping matching numbers, I'd definitely send my motor to Eiji. 

 

If you asked him to get a performance build while keeping all the parts OEM, this is still possible. I doubt forged pistons, rods, better valves, etc. will really harm the selling price of a Z, given that everything is kept with matching numbers (Head/Block.) I don't think the Z's are near the point where keeping EVERYTHING original will get you a selling price anywhere close to one that kept it's L-Series roots, but got a performance overhaul (sort of what I ended up doing.)

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So I have been quietly following this for quite some time now.  

 

Just wanted to say congrats on this being in the car!

 

So will you be heading to the Dyno after it is running and broken in?

 

Video and details!  Amazing 

 

Thanks bud! It's been a long time coming, that's for sure!

 

For now, I'm just playing around with different tunes on the carbs to see what runs best. The setup that it came with was too lean

 

A. What the Carbs came with / B. What I'm trying out

 

40DCOE Weber Carburetors

 

A. Choke: 28 / Mains: 115 / Air: 170 / Emulsion: F11 / Idle: 45F9

B. Choke: 34 / Mains: 145 / Air: 175 / Emulsion: F11 / Idle: 55F9

 

I also got some air horns and those mesh lookin' air filters.

 

I'll post some videos once I get her up and running well!

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Following this with a lot of interest.  I put in the STR stage III last year with DCOE40s, and finally got it on the dyno this year.  Pretty disappointing results (pretty sure it's something I did and not the builder), so I'd like to see what another similar build will do!

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Beautiful build and congratulations with a sick set Up! I too have the same taste in nostalgia. I plan on doing the STD set up after im done with my suspension and brake upgrades.

 

I love the throaty exhaust note. Where dis you purchase the exhaust from?

 

Thanks bud! Eiji is very knowledgable and really knows his stuff. I bought the exhaust from Abarth Exhausts: http://www.abarth-exhausts.com/datsun/

If you scroll down, you'll actually find my exhaust as an 'alternative' version of the stock exhaust setup. Owner decided to offer it as a special order since I requested to have a much bigger inlet.

I bought two of them. One is on the car. The other is on display in the house :)

 

 

Oh man. That revs quick! That's awesome! Abarth exhaust sounds killer. So how does the motor feel in the car? How is low end?

 

Motor is amazing! Feels like going from a plastic knife to a Katana. It really is that sharp! Low-End torque is great, but she really prefers to be past the 4k marker. I honestly thought my speedometer was busted for a while there, until I went up against my friend's WS6 Firebird. The real power is up there, but due to how fast it gets there, I'm not complaining! Really is a blast to drive. Currently having lots of electrical issues, though!

 

156 at the wheels.  :(

I don't want to hijack a thread here, so I'll be posting all the info and specs in the next few days to see what kind of feedback is out there.

 

Yeah, that cannot be right. My stock L28 got around 140 to the wheels. As i mentioned above, I went against my friend's WS6 Firebird and my Z flies past it. No way your motor should be making that little. Check your tune!

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Having some more wonderful electrical issues :/

 

To try and attempt diagnosing my electrical issues, I've reverted most of the electrics to stock:

 

  • New Externally regulated alternator
  • New voltage regulator
  • New battery cables (x2)
  • New OEM Fusible links

With key set to "ON" -

  • Alternator reads 12.20v
  • Fusible Links read 12.20v
  • Battery reads 12.23v

As soon as I turn on my headlights, the volt gauge in the car drops to 0. Running lights, parking lights and dome light won't come on. Same effect occurs if I try to turn on the fan, use wipers or hazard lights. Headlights come on and turn signals work. One of the brake lights also causes the "short" issue, but with that particular light disconnected the issue no longer occurs. Swapping bulbs with one that does work still causes same issue in that particular light.

 

Still,

  • Alternator reads 12.20v
  • Fusible Links read 12.20v
  • Battery reads 12.23v

I checked the ground wire from negative battery - good. I checked my fusebox - good. When I first made the swap, the alternator was pushing out 17v before I swapped it. It may have fried something along the way, but I don't know what. 

 

Today, however, after getting a brand new battery, voltage popped above 16v again. Dome lights come on. Headlights come on, but I can see my fusible link (Alt/Battery one) is burning up.

 

Any ideas? Thanks!

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Today, however, after getting a brand new battery, voltage popped above 16v again. Dome lights come on. Headlights come on, but I can see my fusible link (Alt/Battery one) is burning up.

 

Any ideas? Thanks!

Voltage "popped up" while the engine is running, right?  You are using a good meter?  Sounds like your voltage regulator Sense wire is not sensing.

 

You should focus on the "burning up" fusible link.  Fusible links are there for when things aren't right.  So, obviously, something is shorted, probably, on that circuit.  Check the wiring at the starter for starters.  And use your meter to be sure things aren't shorted, before connecting the battery.

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So what kind of power did it end up making? And so I have this right, this motor has an 89mm bore, 83mm stroke, and standard valves? Did he weld up and reshape your combustion chambers or no?

 

Where does it make peak power? How is it around town at ~3k rpm or less?

Edited by rturbo 930

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Voltage "popped up" while the engine is running, right?  You are using a good meter?  Sounds like your voltage regulator Sense wire is not sensing.

 

You should focus on the "burning up" fusible link.  Fusible links are there for when things aren't right.  So, obviously, something is shorted, probably, on that circuit.  Check the wiring at the starter for starters.  And use your meter to be sure things aren't shorted, before connecting the battery.

 

Yup, with engine running. Not running shows the standard 12.x. 

Meter is good and tested. I might actually still be hitting 17v - I didn't linger long enough to get an accurate reading. As I was getting a reading, I noticed that the link was burning up again so I turned the car off. But I did see "16.x" show up on the screen before I put the meter down. 

 

How should I go about checking it for shorts without the battery connected? 

 

Thanks for the help!

 

EDIT: You can see a little smoke coming from where the fusible link is right at the end of the video

 

Edited by TheCrazySwede

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What I'm seeing after a quick look at the schematic for a Z (I'm new to these but work on electronics for a living) is a couple things.

 

First, the indication that turning on the lights works but your voltage goes to 0. That indicates that wherever your voltmeter is wired to is seeing ground. I need to know where that tap is.

 

Second issue is that voltage spike while running. I'm betting that wherever the sense wire goes is shorted to ground. That would cause it to push the alternator high.

 

A few possibilities from looking at the short issue for a few minutes: bad light switch, bad tail lamp (if removing the bulb fixes the issue that's it), bad dimmer.

 

I'm going to bet it's two seperate problems.

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