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How quickly does that blaster work? Would you recommend using it to blast an entire shell?

 

What I've read and experienced, is that sand blasting in particular "work hardens" metal. Won't be an issue on a suspension piece, but it's not recommended for body panels. Other media like soda or pecan shells may be a different story.

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What I've read and experienced, is that sand blasting in particular "work hardens" metal. Won't be an issue on a suspension piece, but it's not recommended for body panels. Other media like soda or pecan shells may be a different story.

 

SaturnV has a very valid points

 

Soda blasting is a great option if you have access to one. It is especially good if you are working with soft metals, my buddy has one and loves it and had to use a soda blaster on his car as it had an aluminum body. Where Sand blasting is generally better where you have more rust and other hard to remove compounds. In my case I knew I was going to be working under the car and working with rusty materials so the sand blaster won (and I did look at both). On that note you can buy soda blaster upgrade kits for most blasters, and I came close to getting a combo kit but just could not afford it at the time.  I did use the blaster to remove some terrible bondo work near the rear tire area and it did a great job and was very quick.  This is where I was a bit vague in a previous post about the paint on the shell of the car in a previous post (which has been edited) as I was actually leaning towards using a paint stripper per my limited space and sand blasting as needed with the option of soda blasting funds permitting. Anyway, sand blasting the media and the pressure you use will make a huge difference on how the panels will be affected, the higher the pressure  the more likely you are to warp something. That being said, If I was JUST doing the body, and had to buy a piece of equipment I would probably lean towards Soda Blasting, or a combo kit as it is the best tool for the job.

 

Check out: http://www.eastwood.com/abrasive-blast-media-vs-soda-blast-media-removing-rust-and-paint-with-media

Edited by Yoak

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Thanks for the responses guys. I wasn't planning on using sand, since everything I've read suggests that sand is too harsh for sheet metal. I'll probably use walnut shells or plastic. I just want to get the paint off. I've heard some bad things about residue from soda blasting ruining paint jobs, so I don't really want to go that route.

Edited by rturbo 930

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Yup, I do some photography on the side. :) 

 

I actually don't run any filters or do anything other than basic edits (exposure, shadows, highlights for example). The look you are seeing largely comes from the camera (typically a full frame) and lens combo that I am using. I do try and ensure that the pictures are at least interesting to look at as some of this stuff is not the most exciting stuff. Although, I am much picker on what I do post then I would care to admit. :)

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MG 3529

MG 3533

MG 3563

MG 3581

MG 3743

MG 3747

MG 3748

 

Rear 240Z TTT Suspension components.

 

Notes:

  • I had to modify the 300ZX dust guards to fit correctly, and that had to be swapped over to the opposite side. This setup will utilize the original 300ZX hand brake cable.
  • The differential mount required me to trim off some of the original metal on the frame of the car to fit correctly. 
  • The Greddy differential cover is for a skyline/300zx, and will require a breather (38322-p6400).  it fits nicely but it is very close fit

If anyone is interested I did take notes of torque/part numbers etc I have used on this setup..the only major difference is I re-threaded most of my components over to M10 1.5

 

Note I had to re-shoot the TTT components so there are some pieces showing up at this state that otherwise would not be at this stage of the game...but you get the idea :)

 

 

Mote Pictures: http://www.doitinadatsun.com/yoak/2015/01/240z-ttt-rear-suspension-components/

Pictures Taken: November 2014 & January 2014

Edited by Yoak

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Thanks for the compliment, I try to get as much detail as I can as you never know when you need to look back on something. I can't tell you how many times I reflect on something and go wonder what I was thinking..this helps that process.

 

No, I did not use POR15 - I had considered it and ended up going with what I can get locally. I used a zinc based paint...which was fairly difficult to get off even with my blaster. I think do a layer of rustoluem bedliner (same as I used in wheel wells).  The liner has a fine texture to it, similar to some to some of the ripple powder coatings I have seen. This was something I picked up from my jeep days and it generally held up pretty well in those condition so it just carried over.

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MG 4319

MG 4321

MG 4328

MG 4332

 
Floor Prep work continues...I have removed the seat bracket and the frame rail is going to go (being replaced anyway).
 
Because of the amount of rust I had to cut quite a bit of flooring out of the car The section near the drivers feat is going to be rather interesting to fix.

Pictures Taken April 2014
http://www.doitinadatsun.com/yoak/2015/05/240-floor-prep-continued/

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MG 4366


MG 4364


MG 4353


MG 4361


MG 4346


MG 4350


 

This engine was going into the 240z project but will be going into the 280ZX as the 240 has a long ways to go before it will be on the road again.

 

Notice some of the interesting repairs done by a previous owner, especially the socket on the valve cover. As a result, I am going to be doing a complete rebuild on the engine which is a nice change all the body work I have been doing on the 240.

 

Pictures taken April 2015

 

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