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Zetsaz

A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)

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Sorry to slightly thread hijack, but maybe useful for Zetsaz as well. 

 

jpndave, what do you suggest for an entry aluminum capable TIG setup? Just your average hobbiest, Everlast has come up. Once again Eastwood has the cheapest option with the manual knob adjustable unit, but I stand by my former statement. Your thoughts?

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I'd stick to a name brand, better machine even if it costs a little more. The Lincoln 210 machine is nearly impossible to beat right now - and I'm a Miller Blue guy. I have a Dynasty 200DX for TIG and a 350P for MIG. Love the TIG but that MIG has a lot more capacity. Aluminum is tough as it draws heat away so fast. You need a really powerful machine if you are going to do any thickness to speak of. Argon or a mixed gas for steel is really the only way to go but gets expensive especially for TIG work even where I can buy it a fraction of retail. The Inverter machines have come a long way, that's all I own now. Gave my 250 to my dad when I got the 350P. I'd stay away from the cheaper machines.

 

I welded up a complete exhaust in Hawaii with a Miller 211 using flux core wire. I kept telling my friend that he needed to get gas up there so I could do decent welds and I was quite surprised that the flux core did fine in that machine. I've used flux core before when I was starting out in the 220 volt starter model Miller and had a horrible go of it. That 211 just compensated and ran great. More spatter but the welds turned out fine. Would they have been better with gas? I'm sure, definitely would have saved my clothes from as much spatter but it did the job much better than expected. I was impressed by that little machine.

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If I was buying a machine in this range and didn't care about it doing TIG, I'd buy a Miller 211 (like I said, I'm Blue). However for the money, the Lincoln 210 will do everything that the 211 will and has TIG capability. That's what I'd get. If I had to save a little longer, so be it. If you are scabbing together farm parts or a trailer or something rough, maybe you could get by but we're talking permanent restoration here and maybe some delicate fabrications down the road. A cheap machine is just going to be a frustration. Once you have used a good machine it's really hard to fight with junk. My 350P is pretty much the ultimate for this stuff but WAY out of the price range you are talking and honestly for the things you are wanting to do the 210 will be perfect, you probably wouldn't know the difference. With all the automation and simplicity, it might even be better. However, I am looking forward to playing with the pulsar on my sheet metal in the Z, just need some time. That's one of my justifications for picking up that machine, that and I got it for a song. The 250 I had welded beautifully.

 

Oh, and get a cylinder. I know I mentioned the flux core works on those machines but you'll get better welds and be a lot happier with gas. I have a bit more experience with them and that helps. Omar, I might have a tank here I could let go. I own all of mine and have a few tricks to get another if need be. I have been shifting all mine to the larger sizes and likely have one that would be perfect for your needs. I like keeping a spare on hand as you always seem to run out on a weekend when they are closed and it's also nice to back purge things too.

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Bigg-ish puchases today. Dave, that roof you wanted might be unusable for your needs. I'll send you pics later and you can decide based on the rust on the top. Not sure quite how clean you want it, but it's hard to tell how pitted it is right now. 

 

Bought a xenon front air dam, stock brake stuff from rock auto, Mooneyes GT071 mirrrors like the ones on Kazuaki Kadowaki's old Z, a weatherstripping kit, and the missing roof emblems. 

 

Hoping to sandblast and at least get an epoxy primer on it while I finish things up. Might even try to go for paint if I can figure out what I want to do with the floors. 

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Posted (edited)

Feels like I'm dumping money at this thing this month. Doesn't look any prettier yet but lots of good progress is being made.

 

Partially sandblasted most of the shell. Dad didn't want to tear the whole thing apart, so we just covered as much as we could as heavily as we could and went to town. Tried not to go strait to bare metal on everything, especially since there was some pretty well done body filler on areas with small dents. Brought it mostly down to bare metal or at least oem primer/basecoat when we ran out of sand. Mostly satisfied with the result. Found about as much body filler as I was expecting and surprisingly only a couple spots with pin holes blown through the rust, all in very low easy to reach areas.

 

Only a couple in progress pictures currently. We were literal shade tree mechanics for a while haha

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Spent Monday and Tuesday redoing the front bushings and brakes. Finishing up the brakes now. All the front bushings took WAY longer than expected. Installed the new ball joints as well.

 

Scraped and cleaned areas as I was there and sprayed some rust reformer over them then later used 3M undercoating. We'll see how it holds up. Down the road I'll probably wire wheel a lot down and use some better product like lizard skin. For now budget is focused on a couple patch spots left and hopefully priming it soon

 

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This would have been an ideal time to start coilovers, but again... Budget. Those will likely have to wait until December or maybe even next summer. Been thinking about waiting until I get a good set of wheels and tires to really tie things together. Looks fine right now and the stock springs and struts are doing surprisingly alright. Fairly firm for stock springs and no leaks anywhere.

Edited by Zetsaz

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Slowly but surely! Some people have had success and enjoyed the 3M undercoating and I was reading a lot of other restoration boards and most rust reformers are pretty much identical products. The combination should be alright for now. Floors will definitely have lizard skin instead.

 

Anyway, here's this thing... Really glad I went ahead and bought new bushings with the brakes

 

https://youtu.be/alSr-YbIEAs

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Nice progress Omar! Are you going to hit the cruise-in this weekend?

I'm really hoping to! Probably won't get everything I'd like done, but I'll probably just throw on a coat of high build primer and head over late afternoon on Friday or just early Saturday then go cruise down Main.

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Posted (edited)

Minor project to keep me motivated recently. There was a ton of play in the shifter, so I went to an auto parts store and picked up an assorted pack of door hinge bushings. For those curious, the write-up is on Atlantic Z. Took less than half an hour and it feels much better! The order I do some of these random side projects is probably not the "right" way to got about a restomod, and maybe it slows down other things, but honestly if it keeps me motivated and stops the whole project from stagnating that's all I really care about. In my mind as a relative amateur, all progress is good progress. 

 

 

Best $5 I've spent.

 

Had a friend that was going to let me borrow a mig welder, so we'll see if I can learn a thing or two in the next couple weeks on some of the portions of the car that aren't as critical and are out of site. 

Edited by Zetsaz

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Posted (edited)

Been getting held up on welding up some remaining patches from being out of town for a bit. Will hopefully be getting at least most of that done this week. I'd like to have the car primed before I head back to washington.

 

In the meantime I've been reconsidering flares. I hate how wide flares stick out so far past the stock body lines. Standard width ZG flares are the only thing I'd consider otherwise I'd rather go to some kind of widebody, but most cars I see run stretched tires or excessively wide wheels that stick out past the flare (or worse yet, both) which I'm not a fan of and it always puts me off. 17x9.5 -20 with a 255/40/r17 tire. Only .3" taller than the stock tires but with MUCH more tire. The 255 might be excessive for the front end, but I prefer the square setup and might deal with it for the sake of being able to rotate the tires and making everything look even.

 

Probably not that far off what some of the guys from the rota RB group buy run, but I honestly don't like that wheel despite being pretty similar to this style. 

Edited by Zetsaz

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Posted (edited)

Held off on welding the back end because I want to get it fixed properly which will involve redoing the rear lower quarters. 280's had extra metal to form a sort of V shape meeting at the bottom of the rear lower quarters and the rear valence. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but this doesn't seem to be structural and the 240s didn't have this. It's mostly rotted away so next time I'm home I'll just be chopping all that off and putting in extra metal between the rear deck and the rear quarters parallel to the ground to seal off the inside just like the 240 (at least the series 1 parts car) has. 
 

On my way back up to Washington I got a full AC system from a facebook datsun parts member while I was passing through Boise! I only needed the compressor, but I'll probably run it next summer and cruise around a bit more comforably while I finish up metal work and hopefully paint. Will probably keep the L series with AC for the time being until I really build up the rest of the car to hold up to whatever I decide to throw in the engine bay in the future. 

 

Here's a couple random pictures from my last week in Utah, including a rock chuck (?) that was wandering around the garage and seemed to enjoy the Datsun. 

 

Hasn't been a month and I already have more parts ready to go for next time I'm home. 

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Edited by Zetsaz

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