MS2 board

[Autismisakiller]

I have been trying to get my 280z running again. I moved and changed jobs so it's been a while but finally getting back into it. I check all my wiring again and everything seems to be right. So I figured that I would check the board to make sure the jumpers were in the right place(I bought the car with the MS2 half ass installed and the wiring was shot). Anyways this is what I found. I am not sure if it will still work or not. It boots and lets me upload msqs to it and it does try to start. Also does anyone have the stock ignition and other setting I need to getting it running? I am using a 83zxt cas(360 slots). I appreciate the help. Also anyone in/near Waco, TX?

[Autismisakiller]

Ok so I checked continuity and it seems fine but I will clean it up and make some repairs to the board tomorrow after work. First, Q16 pin 3 should go to R43, right? Where is R43? I need to check the continuity on that line. I also don't think the jumpers are correct. I have one from JS10 to IGBTIN but I don't see one for IGBTOUT to IGN. Where are those two at? Q16 pin 2 should be IGBTOUT correct? So I need to know where IGN is. The board is a 3.57 with MS2 3.01 daughter. I can send more pics if needed. I am going by the write up on DIYautotune by mobythevan where he says,

"Using the MS-II PCBv3 ECU

 

Build the ECU up to trigger from the Hall/Optical Input (all of my MS230-C units are by default configured this way).

The only change is to enable the IGBT High Current Ignition Coil Driver Circuit to directly drive the coil.

Remove the jumper from JS10 to IGN (if exists)

Jumper IGBTIN to JS10

Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN

That's it!"

What did I miss? If mobys write up doesn't work for 3.57 is there anyone that can point me in the right direction? I have spent all day searching for answers.

-------------edited

I just figured out I don't need the jumper between igbtout and ign on 3.57

Can anyone tell me the resistance of pin 3 and what it is connected to though?

After reading more I believe it's still in working order and I will just clean it up and repair it a little.

Also what type of ignition wheel should I select in TunerStudio?

Edited May 12, 2014 by Autismisakiller

[winstonusmc]

You should build the trigger to be VR. I have been using an 82 dizzy with VRin and a pull up resistor for about a year now. The optical input is an isolator for high power inputs from a coil, not a trigger wheel. You should look into the DIY trigger wheel which will allow more coil options in the future. Not bad for $25. There are setups for the stock disc in the FAQ page. But I recommend the DIY, its what I run.

 

As for the ignrion circuit, run the stock one. I like the external ignition modules. There is a reason most OEMs use external ignition modules. It dissipates heat and puts the point of failure outside. You can grab many single channel modules in the junk yard for next to nothing.

Edited May 12, 2014 by winstonusmc

[Autismisakiller]

Ok so I should build it like this then? I guess I miss the pull up resistor earlier I thought it was a different set up.

 

 

"V3.57 board - VR Input with pullup for hall sensors, GM LS2/58X, optical sensors or points

a) Find JP1 in the bottom right of the board. Place a jumper across positions 1 and 2

Find J1 in the middle of the board. Place a jumper across positions 3 and 4

c) Install a 1k resistor (any value 470R - 2k2 is likely ok) onto the pads marked R57

d) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, 7 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) and then turn R56 back about 2 turns clockwise."

 

 

And BIP373 jumpers are still the way I describe with IGBTIN to JS10 and no jumper between IGBTOUT and IGN correct?

---------edited

 

Or do I already have the pull up resistor because this is the way I wired it up?

--------added

 

Splice into the 12v trace near the db37 and then on the other side of the burn by about an inch and then soldered in a jumper. Also did the same from just before db37 pin 36 to pin 2 of q16. Q16 pin 1 looks like it survived but I added a new jumper from IGBTIN to JS10 anyways.

Q16 pin 3 = checked continuity between it and other grounds on the transistors that are mounted to the heatshink and looked good and that is what I am supposed to have there right? I will post pics of the finished repair if anyone wants.

Edited May 13, 2014 by Autismisakiller

[Autismisakiller]

You should build the trigger to be VR. I have been using an 82 dizzy with VRin and a pull up resistor for about a year now. The optical input is an isolator for high power inputs from a coil, not a trigger wheel. You should look into the DIY trigger wheel which will allow more coil options in the future. Not bad for $25. There are setups for the stock disc in the FAQ page. But I recommend the DIY, its what I run.

As for the ignrion circuit, run the stock one. I like the external ignition modules. There is a reason most OEMs use external ignition modules. It dissipates heat and puts the point of failure outside. You can grab many single channel modules in the junk yard for next to nothing.

Thanks for the information. I just ordered a DIY trigger wheel for the dizzy and I am using a 280z or a 280zx coil, plugs and wires. My setup as of right now is pretty much stock. Do you have the ignition/cranking settings that you could screen capture? I want to make sure I have everything setup correctly. After I get it started I will run VEAL.

[winstonusmc]

I use MS3/Ms3X, so my setup will be different. The DIY Autotune website has settings. With that trigger wheel, it will allow you to get rid of the distributer altogether. You can run any number of 6cyl wasted spark coilpacks or go coil on plug if you want. Of course running the factory distributer would be for the stock look.

 

Make sure before you start, you disconnect the injectors and time it with a timing light. A remote starter switch is cheap from the local auto parts store and makes the intitial timing setting way easier. Dont turn tne distributor, but change the settings in Tunerstudio.

[motomanmike]

The distributor he's using is optical.