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'73 6.2 LS3 Crate Build *Lots of Pics*


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Hey Everyone, I figured it was about time that I finally post about my project that I've started. I've been lurking around here for a little bit trying to gather as much info as I could. There's still many questions I have and I'll be looking to you guys to help me out! And thanks to everyone whose helped me out already.

Ok, here's the car that we started with. It was a perfectly fine '73 240z that I picked up with these exact intentions in mind.

 

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Shortly after acquiring the car I started to buy parts.

 

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Ordered some wide zg flares as well but didn't get around to getting a picture of those. That's about all I got done before winter showed, and garage didn't even have electricity yet until February or so. So here it sat, stuffed in the corner.

 

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When it started to warm up a bit I began to pull things off. Very impressed with the shape this car is in so far.

 

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Shortly after, this showed up.

 

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Time to start putting the coilovers together

 

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Now that I have my hoist installed it gives me a bit more ambition to work on the car, engine is out in no time.

 

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Followed shortly by everything else..

 

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Camber plates in

 

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Removed some unwanted things and cleaned and painted the bay.

 

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Front Suspension, somewhat in.

 

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This is pretty well where I'm at right now. I'm always busy working on the garage or one of the cars, but the Datsun is my main priority now.

 

Things I can think of that I still need are, LS1,2 T56, engine harness, computer, exhaust, fuel cell, fuel pump, Unsure if the Oil pan that came on my engine will work for me (2014 Camaro SS) and many more things that I cant think of right now.

 

Anyway, here's the start to my project...ugh

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Oh, hopefully someone can help me here. I bought an R200, mistakenly thinking it had an LSD. It was my own fault, not the sellers. Didn't do my homework and used some bad second hand information.

 

I bought a diff and axles supposedly from an '84 300zx. After spending a lot of time cleaning it up I wanted to see what gear ratios it had. Never really figured that out, but that's when I noticed no LSD hah :(

 

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I've done some reading but I'm still a little confused, and maybe not entirely sure what R200 I have. I'm also not sure what axles I need to get for this.

 

The axle I got with the diff is 30mm diameter splined section, while the stock one from my R180 is only 26mm.

 

Here's one of the new axles I got with the diff

 

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Another shot of the diff

 

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Look on the ring gear for a collon, you know, the punctuation mark with two dots :

 

There is a number that starts with a 3, then the colon, then a second number. Divide the two numbers and that is your gear ratio. For example, 39:10 is a 3.90. 37:10 is a 3.70. And 39:11 is a 3.54. Yep, that's an open diff. I have one like it that I bought as a CLSD, too. Lots of us have learned the hard way. The axles you have are rusty but good. Have fun rebuilding them. You bought a nice car. Can you send me your source for your rear wing and take some pictures of the attachment side of it?

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Look on the ring gear for a collon, you know, the punctuation mark with two dots :

There is a number that starts with a 3, then the colon, then a second number. Divide the two numbers and that is your gear ratio. For example, 39:10 is a 3.90. 37:10 is a 3.70. And 39:11 is a 3.54. Yep, that's an open diff. I have one like it that I bought as a CLSD, too. Lots of us have learned the hard way. The axles you have are rusty but good. Have fun rebuilding them. You bought a nice car. Can you send me your source for your rear wing and take some pictures of the attachment side of it?

Ok cool I'll check that out when I get home. So when you say you did the same thing, did you end up sourcing another one or did you just install a limited slip in that case? I was doing a bit of reading on the OBX units and their rebuild/install, not sure how well they would hold up though, maybe someone can share some experiences.

 

So will those 300zx axles that I got with this diff work on my 240z? Will it still bolt up with all of the T3 suspension I have. Also will it effect how my wheels sit? I bought 15x10 et-25 wheels so it's going to be a tight fit I think.

 

My goal right now is to get the suspension and wheels back on the car so I can at least roll it off my hoist so I can use some of my other cars on it. Other than having to buy a mustache bar, is there anything else you can see that I will need to get my suspension back on?

 

Thanks again!

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I am a big fan of the Z31T Nissan CLSD produced from 87-89. It is simple and tough and easy to work on once you've played with a few. But in my car it has trouble with clunking noises in parking lots. Not everyone has this problem. But it works great at the drag strip, autocross and road course. Google for problems with the OBX, it has some problems with the spring washers. The only one I have had in my shop was full of chunks of metal (probably washers-I bailed when it was obviously broken). I also have a VLSD from a limited production Z31T called the Shiro. I have never run it and I plan to sell it when I get the energy. It has special axles that only work with it. I imagine that the VLSD has less clunking noise on slow turns-that's why I bought it. I have one set of good axles for it. The potential problem I can see is that if I break an axle with the VLSD, the car will be down while I search and search for a replacement. Axles like you have are easy to source.

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  • 1 month later...

Couple small updates.

 

Test fit of engine

 

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Rear suspension (somewhat together) first time it's been on all fours since last fall.

 

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I need to ask you guys, what would you use for engine management/harness. I'm not very knowledgeable on these engines, I'd like to avoid buying a computer, and then buying a tuner of some kind. Is there a cheaper standalone way of doing this? Or would I be better off just buying a GM LS3 computer?

 

Thanks!

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3.70...are you geared for 1/4-mile or 1/8-mile?  I think you run 255/60/15s?  What's your final drive ratio in the tranny?

I believe it is .75.  Sorry it took so long to post. 1/4 mile but I run 1/8th too

Edited by Zfan1
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  • 1 month later...

They are companys out there that make wiring harness for ls3 motors but they are A LITTLE PRICY. Your best bet is to buy a ls3 computer with the harness it cheaper and it gets the job done. If u have the money spend the 600 dollars on a new harness and get the computer. But if it was me i would buy it brand new and not have to worry bout burning up wires. plus u will get that tucked clean look in the engine bay i hope i helped u in some kind of way..   

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  • 3 weeks later...

Couple small updates.

 

Test fit of engine

 

1A98B9AF-BFFE-4934-B249-254B3D51A27D-309

 

Rear suspension (somewhat together) first time it's been on all fours since last fall.

 

F93406A9-334F-4350-9444-9AE6788EBBC2-384

 

 

I need to ask you guys, what would you use for engine management/harness. I'm not very knowledgeable on these engines, I'd like to avoid buying a computer, and then buying a tuner of some kind. Is there a cheaper standalone way of doing this? Or would I be better off just buying a GM LS3 computer?

 

Thanks!

Using a GM engine harness and computer out of a junkyard/wreck will be your most cost effective solution.  Do you want to be able to tune it yourself, or just have it tuned?  HPTuners is $500... you should be able to buy a harness and computer for well under $500.  So, total investment should be well under a grand... Standalone solutions like Haltech are going to start at a grand, with no wiring.  I'm sure you already know how popular these engines are and as a result there are a ton of people who tune them; so finding someone to tune it for you won't be hard.  I work for a company here in North Carolina called PCM of NC, and we specialize in LS tuning.  We have a chassis dyno and work on a lot of Corvettes, Camaros and Trailblazer SS, etc... but also do a ton of mail-order tuning.  People send us their PCM with a build sheet and we cater the tune to their specific needs.  Our tuner has been doing it since 2000, and over the years gotten pretty damn good at it.  Our mail-order stuff is almost as good as in-person dyno tuning.  The only thing we don't mail-order is anything forced induction.  Sorry to hijack your topic, didn't mean to turn this into a commercial!  But the GM computers are just fine for tuning.  One more thing, when buying a harness I would recommend trying to find a car harness vs a truck harness.  The truck harnesses are ugly and laid out funny.  Hard to hide wiring, make it look pretty.  Thats what I am battling right now with my 5.3 swap. 

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