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My 1979 280zx Project.


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I haven't quite had this car for a year now and it already has been quite an adventure. As of right now I own a 350 block and a set of hand-me-down heads, and the plan is to eventually build a decent set up piece by piece. For right now I'm trying to get the L28 running. I've had some issues that this forum and a few others have helped me work through.

 

The 1979 calipers seem to be near impossible to find, so they've been replaced with the 1983 setup. The 79-83 brake swap was pretty straight forward on the back end of the vehicle. I just pulled the control arms off of the 1983 and they bolted straight on. I had to fabricate some Sway bar brackets since mine looked like they'd been beat to death. I also pulled the brake booster and master cylinder from the 83 and bolted it in. I can't comment on how it feels on the road, but the brake system does build pressure and will stop a turning back tire. 

 

I've checked and changed the AFM, Ignition module, and the TPS. There are still some gremlins lurking around, but I've ordered some parts to take care of the issues. After changing the ICM, I wasn't able to get the timing or idle right. I'm changing the intake and throttle body gaskets, the entire distributor(with module), and the FPR for posterity sake and also because i had a little credit on Paypal that my lady didn't know about :2thumbs: . All the vac lines have been replaced and tightened down. In the next few weeks I'm hoping to install my floor pans. I just need the car to run long enough to move it next to a power outlet. 

 

Wasps suck... There were about 20 of them living in the front bumper. I hope that half a can of wasp spray killed them.. 

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I dropped in a new dizzy this week and I'm still having problems getting the timing right. The reman dizzy I got apparently had a dead ICM (was not signaling the coil to spark). I put my old ICM on the new unit and it'll run but it is still rough. Shooting the timing light shows 20 btdc at max adjustment. I've exhausted all the play in both adjustments. When I put no.1 at TDC the rotor is pointing around 1130 if you were looking at it from the drivers seat... I've seen a lot of other people have this problem but it doesn't seem to ever get answered. I'd like to avoid breaking down the motor, but it seems to be necessary if a new icm doesn't fix it.

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Okay... I made out a list this morning of things I wanted to get done on the ole car after work. I got all the way to "Replace #3 and #5 injectors" and total chaos was unleashed. The tip of #2 injector is nowhere to be found and the tip of #3 was broken off into the intake manifold.I tried to pull it out with some needle nose pliers but that only broke it free enough to drop down as well. So I've started pulling off the intake manifold to try to find my missing pieces. On a good note, I figured out that my distributor shaft was more in the 1030-11 position. 

I seem to be trying to fix one problem only to find 2-3 more...

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  • 2 weeks later...

The intake manifold has been removed, and the injector tip has been extracted from the head. Now before I reinstall the manifold, is it okay to put anti-seize on the bolt/stud threads?

 

On another note, the steering wheel retaining nut seems to be of the M16 nature. I'll try to get the thread pitch this week.

 

Now I'm waiting on parts from rockauto like injector seals, retainers, and injector connectors.

 

I just need it to run long enough to piece together this 350.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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