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1977 Turbo LQ4 280z Build

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Now that it has cooled down, progress on the car has been made.


I scored some free simpson 5 point harnesses for free. basically brand new still,



It was time for the first fitment test. she fit in there almost perfectly. of course the old trans mounts were in the way.




The engine fit perfectly as soon as the trans mounts were cut out of the transmission tunnel. The shifter even sticks perfectly through the stock hole.






Also, before it was too late, i decided on buying a new turbo. I upgraded to an 88mm turbo. The smaller turbo had an turbine wheel too small for the 6.0, so i figured it was best to upgrade while i can.



before engine mounts were made, i decided that none of the stock fuel system would be reused. The stock tank is being replaced by a fuel cell. the stock fuel lines and pump were no longer going to be used either. So i tore out the entire fuel system, including where the tank vents to. The worst part of this was separating the fuel lines from the brake line that goes to the rear passenger brake and then cutting the fuel lines into pieces, trying to remove the lines from around the rear suspension.





Engine mounts are made and supporting the engine.Huge thanks to my dad doing the fab work!An angled plate was welded to the frame rail to reinforce the frame rails, but 4 holes in each frame rail was drilled in order to make room for a threaded nut that was welded on the plates before being welded to the frame rail so that the engine mounts could still be removable. with the plate welded to the frame rail, another plate, similar to the one welded to the frame rail, was welded to the post of the engine mount, also with 4 holes drilled in the same locations as the other plate. with this, the mount will be able to bolt and unbolt from the car.look at the picture for reference. With attaching the engine mount to the frame rail, the original mounts on the K member will be cut off so there is more room for the turbo exhaust to exit.




The original plan was to use the stock exhaust manifolds, but the only way to get them to fit was to cut some of the manifold off and weld pipe to it, which is not what i wanted to do for cosmetic reasons. I looked into up and forward headers, which also can be used for down and forward headers, but i was unsure how well they hug the block and did not want to be stuck with a pair of headers that would also not fit. Instead, exhaust manifolds and the rest of the hot side is just about ready to fab up. I have my water pump temporarily installed and am waiting on the fbody alternator bracket to come in so fab work can begin on the exhaust. Mild steel is the choice of material as it is cheaper, plus it is very rarely humid out here, but the exhaust will be ceramic coated anyways to prevent corrosion and for cosmetic reasons.




Before a trans mount can be made, I ordered bad dog frame rails to reinforce the flimsy OEM ones. To prevent risk of fire, the interior had to come out,



The seatbelts, seats, carpet, center console, and some other odds and ends had to be removed. None of what was removed was being reused. Earlier in the build, I mentioned how rust-free this car was. as i was about to pull the first section of carpet, i was really expecting to see some major rust on the floorboards or something, but luckily, the car has really solid floorboards and it was a huge weight off of my chest!




Edited by Meatwad

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May wanna try fitting those seats now while the interior and floors are bare... I'm betting you will find that the trans tunnel hump on the drivers side will prevent the seat from centering properly, and that wing will definitely be hitting the door/glass/b-pillar

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