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air flow meter


mannydatsun

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I have a 1977 280z base coupe, It started acting up about 2 months ago, every time I would put it in first and it would start to dye on me so would give it gas and then it would rune fine, now it wont even start and when it does it sounds like its gasping for air or gas not sure. My friend has a 1977 280z 2+2 we swapped the air flow meter and my car started with no problems so i figured that was the cause, i ordered a new one and now im out 200 bucks because the problem continues the car sounds rough when it starts and the RPM stays at 700 to 400.  

Edited by mannydatsun
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I have a 1977 280z base coupe, It started acting up about 2 months ago, every time I would put it in first and it would start to dye on me so would give it gas and then it would rune fine, now it wont even start and when it does it sounds like its gasping for air or gas not sure. My friend has a 1977 280z 2+2 we swapped the air flow meter and my car started with no problems so i figured that was the cause, i ordered a new one and now im out 200 bucks because the problem continues the car sounds rough when it starts and the RPM stays at 700 to 400.  

 

 

The engine doesn't know what gear you're in, are you sure it's not clutch related? (clutch dragging or worn thrust bearing). 

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I have replaced he clutch and bearing not that long ago, right now im working on cleaning all the electrical connections, I  have a new fuel filter, I am waiting for a fuel pressure gauge to attache it to my fuel line and rule out fuel pressure. I have new spark plugs new voltage regulator new alternator new coil new distributor cap and rotor, I bought a water temperature sensor today that im going to instal as well because i read some threats with similar problems and it turned out to be that. I dont have volt meter or even know how to use one so i haven't done any electrical testing, I also plan on disconnecting the ECu and cleaning that  up as well.I wanted to buy a new throttle body switch but they dont make them anymore so i also plan on going to the junk yard sometime this week to look for one. 

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It causes the biggest adjustments of fuel delivery of almost any other single sensor, why wouldn't it cause a big difference in the way it ran.

 

Did you do a loop check from the ECU to the sensor as called for in the FSM, or did you just shotgun parts on it...not really knowing what you solved?

 

If it starts back into it in a few months, my suggestion is to check the connections, and do the loop check in the FSM so you understand where the problem actually resides.

 

I hope you didn't throw those old sensors out...

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I kept the old parts, and i do feel weird about it since i only changed parts out with out knowing why or what, but i was desperate and i need the car for work, I am worried this problem will come back to hunt me :/ I have the FSM what tools do i need to perform the loop you are talking about (I have zero electrical or mechanical experience)?

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